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Thread: 1915 Stevens favorite Information Request(s).

  1. #1
    Boolit Master
    Chev. William's Avatar
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    1915 Stevens favorite Information Request(s).

    I have a 1915 Stevens Favorite Action I would like recommendations on the safe method(s) to remove/disassemble and reassemble/install the Coil Spring Assembly powering the Hammer.
    The hammer end is hidden within the receiver housing.
    The 'butt' end is accessible but is formed by a sleeve with an angle cut on the 'butt' end that fits against a groove in an anchor screw threaded into the lower tang.
    The sleeve has the end of the spring guide rod appearing at the start of the angle cut.
    The Spring appears to be very strong as the force needed to cock the hammer is quite large.
    I do NOT want the assembly to violently send parts around my work space!
    Best Regards,
    Chev. William

  2. #2
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    Bent Ramrod's Avatar
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    Take off the barrel and buttstock and remove the lever, breechblock and link assembly and extractor. Hold the hammer back slightly with your thumb and pull the trigger. Continuing to hold the hammer, let it go forward into the breech block mortise and the spring assembly will slacken and can be removed.

  3. #3
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    OK, did that on the one I have. Any suggestions for getting it back in?
    Wayne the Shrink

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  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wayne Smith View Post
    OK, did that on the one I have. Any suggestions for getting it back in?
    Wayne,
    Did you Try the reverse operations sequence?
    Was there any additional difficulties encountered in the removal/disassembely process?
    Best Regards,
    Chev. William

  5. #5
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    Chev, to put it back in you have to sustain compression on the spring as you put it back. They make spring clamps for muzzleloader lock springs but this is a different application and a different spring.

    I had no problems taking mine apart. Take the compression off the spring and it comes out easily. I doubt it will go back so easily. I'm not ready to try it yet, but when the time comes I would appreciate hearing from someone who has done it.
    Wayne the Shrink

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  6. #6
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    The leverage on the top of the hammer should be sufficient to get the halfcock notch past the trigger sear. I sold both my 1915 Favorites a while back (the earlier versions are cooler) but I don't recall having any trouble getting them apart and back together.

    No doubt the oldtimers at the factory used one thumb, but the Modern Technique allows the use of the other thumb on top of the first one for better control.

    Anybody who aspires to tinker around with these antiques needs a copy of Single Shot Rifles and Actions by Frank DeHaas.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wayne Smith View Post
    Chev, to put it back in you have to sustain compression on the spring as you put it back. They make spring clamps for muzzleloader lock springs but this is a different application and a different spring.

    I had no problems taking mine apart. Take the compression off the spring and it comes out easily. I doubt it will go back so easily. I'm not ready to try it yet, but when the time comes I would appreciate hearing from someone who has done it.
    Wayne,
    Since you have the Coil Spring Assembly out and no longer under tension, what do the stirrup rod, spring and sleeve assemble look like without tension? is there some part of the rod in the sleeve with the spring just present without pressure applied?
    IF there is a part of the rod extending into the sleeve, it would make reassembly easier.
    Please let me know what you find out about this question as I am not yet ready to try disassembly of my action as I am still fitting barrels to it.
    Best Regards,
    Chev. William
    Last edited by Chev. William; 01-26-2014 at 07:34 AM.

  8. #8
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    Chev, yes, the rod does extend somewhat into the sleeve when it is assembled, if that is what you are asking. Until I hear from Sam about what he wants to do with this I am not yet ready to try to re-assemble.
    Wayne the Shrink

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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wayne Smith View Post
    Chev, yes, the rod does extend somewhat into the sleeve when it is assembled, if that is what you are asking. Until I hear from Sam about what he wants to do with this I am not yet ready to try to re-assemble.
    Wayne,
    Good, I understand your reluctance to proceed until you have checked with the owner.
    The fact that the rod does extend somewhat into the sleeve with the spring Fully Relaxed indicates that it will be significantly easier to get the assembly into proper position in the action when the time comes.

    My Take now on the possible re-installation is as follows:
    1. With the Hammer, Trigger, and Trigger spring installed but the Breech Block, Link, Extractor and Lever still not in the receiver, position the Hammer 'over rotated' forward, past the 'fired' position.
    2. Fit the 'Stirrup' against its seat on the Hammer with the spring already on the rod extension.
    3. Now start the rod tip into the Sleeve and align the relaxed assembly along the center of the Tang with the sleeve near the head of the abutment screw.
    4. Grasp the Sleeve with a pair of narrow nose pliers (so the tips of the pliers will clear the lower tang when the end of the sleeve is in position to engage the abutment screw groove). Use hand pressure to compress the spring with the sleeve so that the sleeve tip may be slipped into the abutment screw groove.
    5. After the sleeve is positioned correctly pull the hammer back to 'Half Cock' to check that it is truly seated then move the hammer to 'Full Cock' and verify that the rod slides freely in the sleeve.
    6. Ease the hammer back down to 'Fired' position and back to 'Half Cock' while observing the sleeve and rod for any sticking or 'hitches' in movement.
    7. Install Breech block,Link, Extractor, and Lever and verify the action functions as intended.
    E.G.: From 'Fired' positions, opening the Breech Block with the Lever automatically moves the Hammer into 'Half Cock' position allowing the Breech Block to be fully opened, causing the extractor to pull the cartridge rim out far enough to be grasped and removed. Easing the lever slightly will allow the Extractor to move back up to the barrel and also allow insertion of a new cartridge before the Breech is closed. The Hammer should be free to move to 'Full Cock' when the Breech Block and Lever are fully closed and 'locked'.

    I hope this is a clear and valid listing of the process, IF NOT please indicate where it needs to be corrected.

    Best Regards,
    Chev. William

  10. #10
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    Copied from another Thread: This is a quote of how "the Single Shot Master" did it. Chev. William

    "Bent Ramrod
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    Sorry for previous post. I didn't read far enough along and couldn't remember any reassembly problems with the 1915's I had years ago.

    According to de Haas: reinstall the trigger and trigger spring and install the hammer and put it at half cock. Put the action in a vise, holding by the lower tang. Insert the yoke and mainspring against the hammer. Grasping the sleeve with pliers, or better still pushing it with a large stubby screwdriver, push it over the yoke and compress the mainspring until the sleeve end slips over the stud screw. "

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check