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Thread: 11.15x60R - .43 Mauser Brass

  1. #1
    Boolit Master
    Ed in North Texas's Avatar
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    11.15x60R - .43 Mauser Brass

    There have been several threads over the years on reloading this cartridge for the Models 1871 and 1871/88. I did not find where anyone ever answered the question raised as to whether the Bertram Bra$$ had the correct thickness rim. While some rifles seem to be fine with the .348 based reformed brass, others found there was excess headspace due to the rim being thinner than the original. Several people questioned whether the Bertram produced cases had the proper thickness, but I didn't find an answer.

    I plan on trying the Buffalo Arms .348 Win based brass, but would like to know if the Bertram is really proper dimensioned brass, or just a more expensive brass which will give some excess headspace.

    Thanks for any definite answers.

    Ed

  2. #2
    Boolit Master

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    I have been using the Bertram brass without issues. Just treat it like a bottlenecked case and don't set the shoulder back after fireformed.
    The Lee dies are a sorry excuse for a die set for this cartridge. They can be made to work though you will have to find a way to expand the case neck as the Lee set is build as if this were a 30-06 with the expander ball on the decap rod in the sizing die. Lee said to buy their Universal Expanding Die which I did but this only flares the case mouth. I had a custom plug made like a Lyman M die and it works good.

    I use either the Lyman 43 Mauser boolit or the Lee 300gr RFN pistol boolit, both sized to .450". This is as large a boolit I can fit in the chamber neck but my bore is .457" so I use an 8 BHN boolit. 20grs of 2400 with 2 grs of poly-fil work fine with either boolit.

    I had to use JB Weld to build-up the front sight to get a 100 yard zero. Groups usually run 2" to 3" on my good days.

    Have fun!

  3. #3
    Boolit Man
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    Another option for brass cases is to fireform 45-90 cases using an "O"-ring at the base as a spacer to hold the case head against the bolt face for the first firing and then you will have a shoulder to set headspace in your rifle. As leadman said, don't set the shoulder back when resizing. I used this method successfully in my Werder; I used a chamber cast to find my optimal trim length for this rifle but in a standard Mauser you can trim to specs...

    I have not seen Buff Arms Mauser cases but I did buy some of their 42 Russian Berdan formed from 348 Win. They swaged a step into the rim that increased the thickness, which is probably how they make the 43 Mauser as well....
    Last edited by Oldeyes; 08-12-2012 at 04:40 PM.

  4. #4
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    leadman - thanks for the info. I first thought about buying the C-H 4D set, but the idea of saving $70 odd dollars was irresistible. I figured I'd buy another Lyman .45 M die and slim the spud down (file/crocus cloth and drill press - nothing fancy like a lathe I don't own) as the neck of my rifle will need.

    I'm looking for a deal on either the Lyman .43 or RCBS .43 moulds. Don't have the rifle in hand yet, so can't slug it to see what the throat will accept.

    Oldeyes - thanks for the info on cases. The threads I found were years old and apparently Buffalo Arms brass wasn't bought by those who were most concerned with headspace. I always neck size after fireforming on any firearm where I can get away with it. I'll try some of the Buffalo Arms brass and see what they've done for the inset bolt head issue (which is why there is some issue with rim thickness for some rifles).

    As usual, I'm trying to either eliminate problems, or gain information, even before I have the rifle in my hands. I guess it beats sitting around twiddling my thumbs, and it keeps me out of too much trouble. If someone else reads the thread and gets some good from it, so much the better.

    Ed

  5. #5
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    ...........I use Bertram brass in both an M1871 and a M71/84 without any problems at all. As a matter fact I've never had problems with ANY Bertram brass. Besides the .43 Mauser I use it in the 8x56R, .43 Spanish, 45-90 and 577-450. The 60 cases for the Martini have been fired over 30 times each and I haven't lost one yet.

    .............Buckshot
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  6. #6
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    Thanks Buckshot. Now that you mention it, I remember your posting that.

    Ed

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    Boolit Master
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    I have used a couple wraps of thin copper wire to hold the base against the face when forming a shoulder but a thin O ring sounds better.

  8. #8
    Boolit Master Pavogrande's Avatar
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    Many moons ago when using reformed 348 cases in a 11mm spanish RB the case rims were "dimpled" in three places with a homemade tool -- Tool was a bit of steel plate with three dimples located around a center hole to hold the case. A small diameter punch did the honours.
    my tuppence.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pavogrande View Post
    Many moons ago when using reformed 348 cases in a 11mm spanish RB the case rims were "dimpled" in three places with a homemade tool -- Tool was a bit of steel plate with three dimples located around a center hole to hold the case. A small diameter punch did the honours.
    my tuppence.
    I guess the rims were too thin for the RB? The issue (or non-issue, depending on individual rifle and brass) with the Mauser is a recessed bolt face enclosing the case rim.

    However, it is a good idea for increasing the rim thickness when necessary.

    Ed

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check