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Thread: Bullet Sticking in Mold

  1. #1
    Boolit Mold Persuader's Avatar
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    May 2008
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    Grovetown, Georgia
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    Bullet Sticking in Mold

    I have a 6 cavity lee Mav Dutchman 200 grain big lube mold, one of the cavities sticks every time, I have to pry or beat it out. I can't find any burrs etc. The rest of the mold cavities release with no problem.

    What can I do to fix this? I'm fairly new to casting so any help is appreciated.

  2. #2
    Boolit Master
    dragonrider's Avatar
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    Paul G.
    Once I was young, now I am old and in between went by way to fast.

    The end move in politics is always to pick up a gun.
    -- R. Buckminster Fuller

  3. #3
    Boolit Master

    Fishman's Avatar
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    May 2010
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    Waco, Texas
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    Don't pry at it. Tap the hinge bolt with a stick or nonmarring hammer.
    "Is all this REALLY necessary?"

  4. #4
    Boolit Grand Master
    Ben's Avatar
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  5. #5
    Boolit Master


    km101's Avatar
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    If you are not "mechanically inclined", you can send the mold back to Lee, along with half of the current retail price of the mold and they will "return it to new condition." If you are not a DYI kinda' guy this is a way to get it fixed.

    Ken

    NRA Life Member

  6. #6
    Boolit Mold Persuader's Avatar
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    May 2008
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    Grovetown, Georgia
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    Worked on the Mold; New Problem

    I read the info on how to correct the mold problem of sticking, it no longer sticks, the bullets drop out very easy. Now the bullets have wavy lines in them, before they were slick and shiny. Kinda like they are not filling out completely.
    I recleaned the mold to be sure and they still come out with little lines in them. They do drop out easy though.

    Asking the experts, how can I correct this? I also tried different temps on the lead.

    Thanks, Persuader

  7. #7
    In Remebrance


    Bret4207's Avatar
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    Mar 2005
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    St Lawrence Valley, NY
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    Fillout requires a HOT mould. With Lee's especially, you need it clean and HOT. A picture of the boolits would help, but incomplete fill out or wrinkles is nearly always a result of a cool mould. Now, if the "wavy lines" are just cosmetic, it's likely something related to whatever you did to the mould to get it to drop.

  8. #8
    Boolit Buddy

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    Dec 2011
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    Illinois
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    Wipe down and add Kroil prior to preheating. And remember to heat it like a **** but not too much. I got a electronic coil burner to heat up my molds.

  9. #9
    Boolit Mold Persuader's Avatar
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    May 2008
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    Grovetown, Georgia
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    Mold Working Again

    On your mark......................Set..................... .Boom!!!!!!!!!!!!!! My Big Lube Mold thinks it's at the Olympics, fill it open it................. and it's a race to see which bullet gets out of the mold first, even cavity #4, which before you had to beat it out.

    Appreciate the assistance. The Lee-menting the mold really worked and once I got the mold back to correct temperature (Very Hot) bullets were perfect.

  10. #10
    Boolit Master

    Dutchman's Avatar
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    Nov 2005
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    Siskiyou County, Calif
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    I cast a bullet in the mold...

    ...then chuck up the bullet in the lathe and drill & tap the base 8-32....

    ....... leave the tap in the base of the bullet and chuck it up in a cordless drill, low speed...

    ........... rub bullet with JB Bore cleaner and close the mold on the bullet....

    ..................spin it 20 seconds or so....

    ........................ thoroughly clean mold... walla.. no more sticking..

    Same treatment for Lyman or Lee molds.

    Dutch

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check