Case rim or head removal

[lukewmtdew]

If using empty cases for a jacket How many swagers remove the case rim?

How do you do it?

[newcastter]

What???

[lukewmtdew]

I mean if you use an empty case for a jacket duh lol

[hardcase54]

Read the sticky,

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=24952

[DukeInFlorida]

No need to remove the rim at all!

Except for the .22 LR brass, and the de-rimming die is one of the tools in the set.

All other calibers, you leave the rims alone.

[lukewmtdew]

I'm surprised the 9mm into 40 cal don't do this more often if shooting in a 40 s&w

Or the 45acp

You think they'd want the extra case capacity

[DukeInFlorida]

There's enough case capacity already.

[dragonrider]

I have only swage a few using BTSnipers dies and I removed the rims and when I do more I will remove the rims. It is only for appearance that I do so. I just don't like how they look with the rims on. Use my lathe for the process.

[DukeInFlorida]

You're certainly free to do whatever you want.

Most of us have found it to be a totally unnecessary step, and not worth the time or effort. I've recovered quite a few of my swaged bullets, and I see rifle engraving on even the rim. So, I think of the rim as being maybe even an additional "gas check".....

Safe shooting, and happy swaging!

[mold maker]

The rim is hidden below the case mouth before its fired, and I doubt you can catch sight of it going down range. De-riming takes too much time per each, so I just ignore it. It would also requires more lead to replace the brass lost, and causes more exposed soft lead on the nose. That may be OK for RFN, but not so good with HP in semi-autos.

[lukewmtdew]

I wish we could like the comments like on Facebook! Lol

[Whistler]

I would really like to remove the rims on my 9mm-made-.40, my Quickload simulations show a fair amount of extra powder room becoming available with the rim removed. This is for 10mm Auto, where I'd like the extra push.

However, if you anneal the case head very thoroughly, you will be able to make bullets where the extractor groove is more or less squished flat. This will give a short enough bullet without having to spend time on removing the rim.

[Fla9-40]

I just received my BT Snipper dies Friday (SWEET) and played with them this weekend. I showed a couple of shooting buddies of mine the results and one of them questioned if the head being left on the swagged boolits would cause barrel wear. Not knowing the answer I suggested the annealing process would soften the brass where this may not be an issue.

What say you?

Here are the first test run:

[MIBULLETS]

The head is just brass, no different on a barrel than a Barnes solid copper bullet really. Anealing will definately make it softer as you suggest, but I would not be worried about any additional barrel wear either way.

Nice looking bullets by the way!

[Fla9-40]

Good point MIBULLETS, did not even think of that!
I did not see where this would be an issue.

Yes they did come out ok, but I do need to tweak them some.
I can't seem to get them below the recommended length of .700 mine have been coming out .713 and longer.
May have to drop the core weight and/or trim the brass a little before annealing

[Whistler]

If you can't get them as short as .680" then your brass and/or alloy is too hard. I make mine .664" with WW alloy and non-trimmed 9x19mm brass. The core I use is the Lee 105gn SWC (weighs 108-109gn with WW).

[lukewmtdew]

Whistler clip on or stick on?

Fla9 nice lookin bullets! How'd you get them so shiny?!?

[Whistler]

Clip on.

[Mountain Prepper]

I would really like to remove the rims on my 9mm-made-.40, my Quickload simulations show a fair amount of extra powder room becoming available with the rim removed.

This is the point that made me switch from my 9mm to .355 bullets into cutting the rim off (and extra brass) so as to get a different profile.

They do work as Duke pointed out, and it is a lot of effort, but if you want max weight and profile for max charges then you may find yourself trimming...

[Fla9-40]

If you can't get them as short as .680" then your brass and/or alloy is too hard. I make mine .664" with WW alloy and non-trimmed 9x19mm brass. The core I use is the Lee 105gn SWC (weighs 108-109gn with WW).

The alloy is just about pure lead, it was off the Lee lead tester (-.10) so it is below 8.0 BHN. I am using the 356-124-2r Lee mold for cores but plan on getting the 356-102 when it gets here.