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Thread: Lee C452-300-RF

  1. #1
    Boolit Master

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    Lee C452-300-RF

    Any one using the Lee C452-300-RF. If so what roll crimp mark do you use and whats the proper C.O.A.L.
    From the picture shown I crimped at the first mark. Not sure if that was the right thing to do. Also is that enough roll crimp?
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    Last edited by evil5826; 07-13-2012 at 06:22 PM.

  2. #2
    Boolit Master

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    The proper length and what crimp groove you deside to use depends on what you are shooting the round in i.e. a revolver with a longer cylinder such as a Ruger Blackhawk or if your intent is to shoot the round in a short chambered revolver such as in a 45 Colt SAA or lever action rifle. The crimp grooves are shallow on the bullet design so crimping just to the point where the brass starts to ring is where I usually went with that particular bullet.

    Give a bit more info as to what you are doing, what gun you are shooting it out of and what powder or load you are going to be working with in regards. All this and you'll have better responses for helping you out.

  3. #3
    Boolit Master

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    Ruger Super Redhawk 454 Casull is being used
    Using 29 grains of Hogdgon H110
    The cast mentioned above casts a 300 grain bullet
    RCBS Roll Crimp
    Bullet is on the left in the picture below.

    Powder Data=

    Bullet Weight (Gr.): 300 GR. FA JFP
    Manufacturer: Hodgdon
    Powder: H110
    Bullet Diam.: .452"
    C.O.L.: 1.775"
    Start Grs.: 28.5 Vel. (ft/s): 1618 Pressure: 44,200 CUP
    Max Grs.: 30.0 Vel. (ft/s): 1716 Pressure: 53,700 CUP
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    Last edited by evil5826; 07-18-2012 at 04:54 PM.

  4. #4
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    OAL in a revolver is pretty much, seat the boolit out as far as it can go as long as it chambers and doesn't hang out the end of the cylinder. My BlackHawk .45LC with that boolit is in the second crimp groove.

    As far as your crimp, not sure, with those heavier loads, you'll find out if the boolits are backing out after a couple rounds.

  5. #5
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    I would load it at the longer COAL crimp groove and use a chonograph if you have one. A chronograph will give you an idea of where you are regarding pressures. Load data is good to look at but different revolver, different bullet, different lot of powder, different alloy and/or different primer can mean a difference in velocities/pressures. You are also going off of a Jacketed bullet which can mean the pressures might be less consider you are shooting cast. You should be fine starting at the lower end but accuracy might not be as good as you want. Look at the 325 grain PB data and taylor your loads for accuracy. Pressure wise it looks ok with the load you have but it's going to be a burner. What alloy are you using???

    The Lee also drops a bit heavier than 300 grains; if memory is right mine dropped from WW alloy at 310 or 315 grains lubed and checked.
    Last edited by RobS; 07-13-2012 at 07:26 PM. Reason: sp

  6. #6
    Boolit Bub

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    That is where I place the crimp when using that bullet in my SRH- you have plenty of room in that cylinder. I am very fond of that boolit myself...

    You will know more after a couple of shots how the crimp holds with that load- insert the generic "you'll see" answer here... Looks OK to me.

  7. #7
    Boolit Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by UT Phoneguy View Post
    That is where I place the crimp when using that bullet in my SRH- you have plenty of room in that cylinder. I am very fond of that boolit myself...

    You will know more after a couple of shots how the crimp holds with that load- insert the generic "you'll see" answer here... Looks OK to me.
    Cool ill give it a few shots Sunday.

  8. #8
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    Everything looks fine.
    Crimp with a Lee is limited so don't try for more, you will buckle the brass.
    Lee uses a trained chicken to make crimp scratches!
    Of all boolit designs, Lee depends on case tension above all else.
    Be very careful with starting loads with H110 in the .454. The SR primer can at times fail to ignite a starting load.
    Make sure all boolits leave the bore! If you get a funny sound, empty the gun and check the bore.
    Do NOT shoot fast double action until your load is proven.

  9. #9
    Boolit Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by 44man View Post
    everything looks fine.
    Crimp with a lee is limited so don't try for more, you will buckle the brass.
    Lee uses a trained chicken to make crimp scratches!
    Of all boolit designs, lee depends on case tension above all else.
    Be very careful with starting loads with h110 in the .454. The sr primer can at times fail to ignite a starting load.
    make sure all boolits leave the bore! if you get a funny sound, empty the gun and check the bore.
    do not shoot fast double action until your load is proven.
    ++1++

  10. #10
    Boolit Master

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    I have the C452-300 RF and crimp in the second crimp groove or seated deeper. It has been working well for me in a Ruger Vaquero and an H&R 1871 Classic Carbine. I am thinking of making this mold plain based to run in standard loads. I ordered a 45PB gas check punch so that I can put a check on any of my 6 .45 molds, 5 of which are already plain based. The 452-300 RF works well with standard loads without the check but It may work better after I have it modified. Frank

  11. #11
    Boolit Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by 44man View Post
    Everything looks fine.
    Crimp with a Lee is limited so don't try for more, you will buckle the brass.
    Lee uses a trained chicken to make crimp scratches!
    Of all boolit designs, Lee depends on case tension above all else.
    Be very careful with starting loads with H110 in the .454. The SR primer can at times fail to ignite a starting load.
    Make sure all boolits leave the bore! If you get a funny sound, empty the gun and check the bore.
    Do NOT shoot fast double action until your load is proven.
    Yep found that out twice last sunday. Thought the primers were bad. Still could be but.... Thank god the bullet didn't get stuck in the barrel. Just didn't fire. Is there another powder i could use that works well with the small rifle primer and a 300-360gn bullet? Maybe Winchester 296?

  12. #12
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    I crimp mine in the groove nearest the nose. . . Pre-2005 Vaquero

    I use a solid crimp with FCD

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gibson View Post
    I crimp mine in the groove nearest the nose. . . Pre-2005 Vaquero

    I use a solid crimp with FCD
    You may want to give the one nearest the base a try

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigboredad View Post
    You may want to give the one nearest the base a try
    Hey buddy!

    Yeah, I did.

    I settled on the one nearest the nose.

    Still sending those bullets?

  15. #15
    Boolit Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by 44man View Post
    Everything looks fine.
    Crimp with a Lee is limited so don't try for more, you will buckle the brass.
    Lee uses a trained chicken to make crimp scratches!
    Of all boolit designs, Lee depends on case tension above all else.
    Be very careful with starting loads with H110 in the .454. The SR primer can at times fail to ignite a starting load.
    Make sure all boolits leave the bore! If you get a funny sound, empty the gun and check the bore.
    Do NOT shoot fast double action until your load is proven.
    So from what I been reading is H110 and Winchester 296 needs a Small Rifle Magnum primer to ignite properly. So once I use up this H110, is there a gun powder out there that I can use on the casull rounds that ignites properly with a standard Small Rifle primer?

    I read here http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...4&postcount=12 that Alliant 2400 works with SR primers but I need something that works up to 360grn bullet.
    Last edited by evil5826; 07-19-2012 at 12:08 AM.

  16. #16
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    This was the boolit that I got started out with last year around May'ish. I simply got to the point I didn't want to pay the $40'ish dollars every other month to feed my Raging Bull commercial cast.

    In doing so I started out with a couple of different loads, one using AA-9 and the other using the surplus WC-297, that Pats Reloading had been selling. I have been loading for the "Bull for nearly 5 years now and have always simply used standard SR primers.

    My previous loads used a 260gr "J word" and the 265gr Cast Performance WFN. When I went with the Lee 300, I simply used the same powders but dropped the charge weights a tad.

    To date I have not had any issues with them NOT going off, or having squib loads like 44man mentioned. I do however usually stay on the mid to upper end of the data with those powders. My AA-9 loads runs just a touch over 1500fps, and my 297 loads hit 1540-1560fps.

    To date, I have used Win, CCI, and Wolf primers, and in all cases though the velocity might vary a touch from one to the next, they have all gone off with authority. To be totally honest the darned Wolf's have put in some darned good groups, plenty good enough for dumping a hog at 80+yds.

    Initially I used straight WW for this boolit, but I have poured up some Iso core alloy to give a try once it cools down a bit. Last time we were up to the farm, it was bumping 104 by 11:30, and being my shooting shed has a tin roof and little ventilation, it was a bit uncomfortable.

    I cannot say with total certainty that I haven't used SR mag primers in any of the loads I have shot through the Bull, but I can say if I did they were few and far between as I do not have any other use for that type primer, where I DO have plenty of the standards on hand.

    Here are a couple of results I have gotten with this particular boolit if your interested,

    Lee C452-300-RF Water Test....

    Did a little shootin...

  17. #17
    Boolit Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by 41mag View Post
    This was the boolit that I got started out with last year around May'ish. I simply got to the point I didn't want to pay the $40'ish dollars every other month to feed my Raging Bull commercial cast.

    In doing so I started out with a couple of different loads, one using AA-9 and the other using the surplus WC-297, that Pats Reloading had been selling. I have been loading for the "Bull for nearly 5 years now and have always simply used standard SR primers.

    My previous loads used a 260gr "J word" and the 265gr Cast Performance WFN. When I went with the Lee 300, I simply used the same powders but dropped the charge weights a tad.

    To date I have not had any issues with them NOT going off, or having squib loads like 44man mentioned. I do however usually stay on the mid to upper end of the data with those powders. My AA-9 loads runs just a touch over 1500fps, and my 297 loads hit 1540-1560fps.

    To date, I have used Win, CCI, and Wolf primers, and in all cases though the velocity might vary a touch from one to the next, they have all gone off with authority. To be totally honest the darned Wolf's have put in some darned good groups, plenty good enough for dumping a hog at 80+yds.

    Initially I used straight WW for this boolit, but I have poured up some Iso core alloy to give a try once it cools down a bit. Last time we were up to the farm, it was bumping 104 by 11:30, and being my shooting shed has a tin roof and little ventilation, it was a bit uncomfortable.

    I cannot say with total certainty that I haven't used SR mag primers in any of the loads I have shot through the Bull, but I can say if I did they were few and far between as I do not have any other use for that type primer, where I DO have plenty of the standards on hand.

    Here are a couple of results I have gotten with this particular boolit if your interested,

    Lee C452-300-RF Water Test....

    Did a little shootin...
    I am looking at Accurate's data and they do not suggest that #9 powder for cast, only for jacketed. Obviously it works for you. I may have to give it a try. Just as long as you can use a standard Small Rifle Primer.

  18. #18
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by evil5826 View Post
    I am looking at Accurate's data and they do not suggest that #9 powder for cast, only for jacketed. Obviously it works for you. I may have to give it a try. Just as long as you can use a standard Small Rifle Primer.
    I used the data listed for the 300gr XTP. As some have mentioned they throw a little over 300grs. Most of mine come out between around 305 and 310, so I simply took the J-word data and gave it a try. All I can say is that it works and works well, and I am NOT using mag primers. I had several bottles I needed to use up and that seemed like a MUCH easier way to do so than only using 13.5grs for my 10mm.

  19. #19
    Boolit Master

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    Thanks Ill add that to my list of powders to try.

  20. #20
    Boolit Bub

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    AA#9 is good stuff, I haven't used it with anything over 325gr though. If you aren't looking for top speed- I have had good luck with 4227.

    I have had good results with the standard Remington bench rest primers- if you can find them... Never saw an improvement with the magnum primers, but if it is all you have, use them up.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check