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Thread: Sprue Plate

  1. #21
    Boolit Buddy H.Callahan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fcvan View Post
    With service like that it makes me want to order an NOE mold! Frank
    I already have. And the anticipation is killing me!

  2. #22
    Boolit Master ColColt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fcvan View Post
    With service like that it makes me want to order an NOE mold! Frank
    There you go, swede...now, how about a 20% off on my next mold after sending you some business.?
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  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by 44man View Post
    When I but my blocks in the vise, the first cut is always to lightly mill the top again. The best thing I ever did was to leave the end mill marks on the blocks and under the plate. The microscopic marks seem to hold any kind of plate lube, reduce friction and prevent scrapes and gouges.
    Ever use a BRP mould? Bruce used to mill vent lines on the top of the blocks similar to those on the faces, pure genious.

    Another fellow on here made a mould for me and I insisted he try doing the same thing, again it works like a dream. No lead smears, scars on the blocks, or anything. Bullplate hangs out in the grooves and all the microscopic bits of lead trash that normally smear on the aluminum blocks get wiped off ever time the sprue plate cycles. At the end of a session I just dust the grooves out with a brass parts-washing brush and it's perfectly clean again.

    Gear

  4. #24
    Boolit Grand Master JIMinPHX's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by geargnasher View Post
    Bruce used to mill vent lines on the top of the blocks similar to those on the faces, pure genious.
    I tried that trick on a few experimental sprue plates. It helped an old Lee mold that had been giving me some trouble in the past. I had even better luck when I cut vent lines in the top of the mold blocks, rather than the sprue plate. I noticed that long thin rifle boolits usually benefit more from this than short stubby pistol boolits do.
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  5. #25
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    44man's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by geargnasher View Post
    Ever use a BRP mould? Bruce used to mill vent lines on the top of the blocks similar to those on the faces, pure genious.

    Another fellow on here made a mould for me and I insisted he try doing the same thing, again it works like a dream. No lead smears, scars on the blocks, or anything. Bullplate hangs out in the grooves and all the microscopic bits of lead trash that normally smear on the aluminum blocks get wiped off ever time the sprue plate cycles. At the end of a session I just dust the grooves out with a brass parts-washing brush and it's perfectly clean again.

    Gear
    Bruce made fantastic molds. He sent me pictures but sadly I was always out of money. I would love to have some of his. He changed jobs and can't make them now.
    Jim, the tiny swirls from an end mill are just perfect. Small vent lines also work. I avoid any high polish on top or under plates.
    Gear understands too.
    Dead smooth will pick up lead and gall a mold. It is not so much venting, it is reduced friction.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check