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Thread: Just a few tips for new rifle casters.

  1. #81
    Boolit Master
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    This information is exactly what I have been looking for. I realize that this is an older thread but the info is brand new to me. Thank you! I will be researching this site thoroughly as I progress.

    Greatly appreciated, WBG

  2. #82
    Boolit Master Tenbender's Avatar
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    Well, I'm hooked. Cast my first 30cal's today. After about the first 20 it went smoothly. Cast 600 or so nice bright 150 gr. that weighed 143 . Right on the money at .309. Now to size , install the GC and lube. I have about 300 lb of WW to melt but that can wait until I get outdoors.

  3. #83
    Boolit Man Ed1's Avatar
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    Tagging for later

  4. #84
    Boolit Buddy
    gondwana's Avatar
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    Thank you goodsteel!
    Gondwana

    Never give up, no obstacle is invincible, there is always a way.

  5. #85
    Boolit Master

    goodsteel's Avatar
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    You're very welcome. I hope this helped you.
    Tim Malcolm
    MBT custom rifles & gunsmithing
    www.goodsteelforum.com

    "He who is enslaved by the compass has freedom of the seas"

  6. #86
    Boolit Master Hooker53's Avatar
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    Man-------- I'm glad I found this thread. Just good stuff here. Thanks Tim. May have helped me find a prob with a #5 roller in 44-40.

    Roy
    Hooker53

  7. #87
    Boolit Master Hooker53's Avatar
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    All this is good info but, at this point I don't powder load all my brass at one time as a habit. I still take the time to hand measure each load and seat the Boolit right then. I know this takes extra time but, I'm the type that would rather take the time on 50/100 cart then to rush through 500.

    Roy
    Hooker53

    Quote Originally Posted by geargnasher View Post
    Then you weren't paying very close attention with the flashlight inspection. The difference between a regular and double-charge of Unique in an '06 case is about 5/8", but if one is new to visual inspections it's a good idea to intentionally double-charge a case for comparison to a normal charge so you can calibrate your eyeball. (just don't forget to dump it out, eh?) I either use two blocks or work to opposite ends like you suggest, but I check with a pen light anyway as extra insurance.

    Gear

  8. #88
    Boolit Master
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    Well, I'm lost here. How do you put a full case of melted lead in the chamber, close the bolt on it, turn the gun over and administer the brass rod and keep the lead in the case melted all at the same time? How do you get the case of melted lead into the chamber unless you have a break action gun? and even then, I've noticed with my molds that lead stays hot a long time but melted not very long. I have not found a reason to try this but, can you fill a mold cavity with molten lead and try to get the lead out before it set's up. I doubt I can do that. Would be interesting to watch a video of this process.

  9. #89
    Boolit Master rsrocket1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Don Fischer View Post
    Well, I'm lost here. How do you put a full case of melted lead in the chamber, close the bolt on it, turn the gun over and administer the brass rod and keep the lead in the case melted all at the same time? How do you get the case of melted lead into the chamber unless you have a break action gun? and even then, I've noticed with my molds that lead stays hot a long time but melted not very long. I have not found a reason to try this but, can you fill a mold cavity with molten lead and try to get the lead out before it set's up. I doubt I can do that. Would be interesting to watch a video of this process.
    You missed a step:
    In order to get a chamber slug, take a once fired piece of brass from your rifle, and fill it with molten lead to just below the case mouth. Cast a lead boolit of pure lead. Insert the lead boolit into your breech, followed by the lead filled casing.
    The lead filled brass casing is cooled and hard. This makes a solid "bullet holder" that won't allow the bullet to go anywhere while you're pounding on that bullet with a rod from the muzzle end. As you drive the pure lead bullet backwards into case, it is forced into the almost filled neck of the case and fills the rest of the space between the case mouth and the start of the rifling as well as getting smashed into the full width of the throat.

  10. #90
    Boolit Mold
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    Thanks for the OP, excellent info. It will be a while before I attempt to cast any 308's, but I have read this multiple times, and It sinks in a bit more each time, and I am reading up on some of the processes mentioned. Thanks again from a newbie!

    Dave

  11. #91
    Boolit Master Motard's Avatar
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    thanks for sharing this knowledge

    Sent from my C6903 using Forum Fiend v1.3.3.

  12. #92
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by rsrocket1 View Post
    You missed a step:


    The lead filled brass casing is cooled and hard. This makes a solid "bullet holder" that won't allow the bullet to go anywhere while you're pounding on that bullet with a rod from the muzzle end. As you drive the pure lead bullet backwards into case, it is forced into the almost filled neck of the case and fills the rest of the space between the case mouth and the start of the rifling as well as getting smashed into the full width of the throat.
    That make's more sense but that isn't what it say's.

  13. #93
    Boolit Master kens's Avatar
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    this thread should be a sticky

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check