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Thread: Swage or ream primer pockets to remove crimp?

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by imashooter2 View Post
    I use the older style RCBS swage kit, but not per the directions... I set the press up so that the ram stops about 1/4 inch short of camming over, then I "bounce" the ram against the stop rod. You get a feel for how hard to hit the handle very quickly, and never bend a rod, even using unsorted brass.

    FWIW, the new RCBS bench mount swager looks like a nice tool too. At about $80 retail, I would definitely consider picking one up if I had a lot of brass to process.
    Thanks for the tip,I thought about that briefly to solve the problem of varying web thickness with an abolute swage stop (camming the linkage to the stop per instructions), but never tried it. Glad to know it works, I'll have to try that next time I tackle some crimped pockets.

    Gear

  2. #22
    Boolit Master
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    I've tried reaming and swaging. If you have a lot to do swaging is the way to go.

    I've got a Dillon super swage and I love it. Quick easy and painless. You can do several thousand in an afternoon. Not only that it's simple enough to use that it's a good job for the little ones so they can help out in the re loading process.


  3. #23
    Boolit Master brassrat's Avatar
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    The lucky kid has a Dillon

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by imashooter2 View Post
    I use the older style RCBS swage kit, but not per the directions... I set the press up so that the ram stops about 1/4 inch short of camming over, then I "bounce" the ram against the stop rod. You get a feel for how hard to hit the handle very quickly, and never bend a rod, even using unsorted brass.
    I think this sounds like something worth trying! Thanks for the idea.

    I also prefer to swage, and I have both the RCBS swager and the Lyman reamers. Swaging doesn't leave brass shavings all over the floor, and it's a good bit faster. I, too have bent the rod (and gotten a replacement from RCBS) but I've since learned how to avoid bending the rod and also how to reliable straighten it when/if that happens again.

    It still works reasonably well even with a bent rod.
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  5. #25
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    Years ago when I used to do them I drilled a hole in block of wood that held the shell, this I bolted to base on my drill press, I then ground the sharp tip off a drill bit of correct size,set it in the press and set the depth, bingo big mobs of shells in no time. the hard part was blowing the primers out. this I did by filling them with water and sitting them on a shell holder, putting a brass punch in neck and wack with hammer, faster than it sounds.
    for those who wonder why I blew them out, I got sick of deprime pin going through primer.

  6. #26
    Boolit Grand Master Artful's Avatar
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    I use the Dillon swager myself - I have used RCBS swage and used the cut away method (everything from a sharp pen knife to drill and cutter head) - You have a more consistent pocket with swage method.

  7. #27
    Boolit Mold
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    I've used the Hornady primer pocket reamer chucked in a drill press on thousands of rounds of 7.62 Nato and 5.56 Nato. Both reamers still work great, no wear issues, primers go in easy and tight. Have used RCBS and Dillon swagers; both worked OK but to me reaming is easier and much faster.

  8. #28
    Boolit Master Sonnypie's Avatar
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    Watch out, Jailer!
    They'll be after you for child labor laws.

    I've always reamed.
    And always used the same old Acc-u-ream Primer Pocket reamer.


    If it works, don't fix it!

    Lately I use my lathe to spin the tool for me at low speed.

    (At $3.95, I think Dad and I got his moneys worth a few thousand times over.)
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  9. #29
    Boolit Grand Master

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    With some of the 223 if there was any carbon in the primer pocket it would not swage out properly.
    I also had some brass the the pockets were a little shallower than normal and the swage would not take out the crimp all the way. I would use my RCBS trimmate and taper the pocket slightly ar the top.

  10. #30
    Boolit Master zuke's Avatar
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    One of these in a drill press.Take's a split second and it's done.

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/2PC-1-2-X-2-...item3f1677ee91

  11. #31
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    I have done it both ways.
    The RCBS system has been working well for a while.When i get tired of it I think the Dillion bench mount will be next.

  12. #32
    Boolit Man
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    I use my buddy's Dillon Super Swage. It works great and its free!
    If enough pressure is applied, it'll go

  13. #33
    Boolit Grand Master In Remembrance
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    Also of the 300 I did most still have issues seating a primer, so I also have to slightly bevel the primer pocket with a chamfer tool to allow for smoother seating.
    Buy the Hornaday Military Pocket Reamer that bevels the pocket edge for SR & LR primers ... http://www.midwayusa.com/product/804...reamer-package

    You can also buy separately the SR or LR
    Regards
    John

  14. #34
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    about all the late production brass will swage fine. Try to swage the old DEN 42 06 brass. If you can get the primer out. They must have used a 100 ton press to crimp in the primers

  15. #35
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    I've cut and swage. I use the RCBS. I would get the Dillon if I had to do it all over again.

  16. #36
    Boolit Master

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    I have the RCBS swagger and I've cut crimps with a reamer and a deburring tool. If I was purchasing again id get a dillon. You need to sort by headstamp with the RCBS.

  17. #37
    Boolit Mold
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    Excuse the newby question
    Does the swage make the primer pocket tighter as well?
    I have a 7x57M, the primers fall out of the primer pockets. The cases are on their 4th reload.

  18. #38
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    I have an old Forster tool that will chuck up in a hand drill and will cut the crimped in primer out of a military case with just a slight touch. The drill is clamped to a stand with a hose clamp and runs set with the speed lock on. I had and sold a Dillon swage tool and now just use the above method. Much faster, I can do 15 cases a minutes and watch a ball game at the same time. I'm a lazy ol man. james

  19. #39
    Boolit Master Garyshome's Avatar
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    You could try a countersink. Chuck it up in a drill and have at it.

  20. #40
    bhn22
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    Quote Originally Posted by beyersgrt View Post
    Excuse the newby question
    Does the swage make the primer pocket tighter as well?
    I have a 7x57M, the primers fall out of the primer pockets. The cases are on their 4th reload.
    No, it won't help tighten the primer pockets. Normally I'd suggest replacing the cases, but Midway now carries the Harts Case Saver. It's expensive, and it's a pain in the neck, but it does work.

    http://www.midwayusa.com/product/911...primer-pockets

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check