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Thread: Swage or ream primer pockets to remove crimp?

  1. #1
    Boolit Master
    2ndAmendmentNut's Avatar
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    Swage or ream primer pockets to remove crimp?

    I have got a few thousand 223/5.56 cases that have military crimps to be removed. I have been using a Hornady primer pocket reamer, but about 300 cases in the reamer seems to be worn out and is no longer cutting much. Also of the 300 I did most still have issues seating a primer, so I also have to slightly bevel the primer pocket with a chamfer tool to allow for smoother seating. I am just wondering if there is an easier way to do this. Would a pocket swager set up make the primers seat easier/smoother? Or would I be better off just ordering several more pocket reamers?

  2. #2
    Boolit Grand Master
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    I ran into the same thing a few years back, a 5 gallon bucket of milsurp 5.56. I put a 'machinist's cut' ball head carbide burr in an electric drill, put the drill in a vice and tie wrapped the trigger back. I got my bucket of brass, another empty bucket and a stool and got comfortable in front of the drill. I plugged in the drill, picked up a brass and just touched the primer pocket to the spinning burr. In a split second, the crimp was gone. I went through the bucket almost as fast as I could sort through different calibers.

    I had a coupla' guys tell me I could take off too much metal like that. They're right, you can if you're not payin' attention. I found that just a quick touch and the crimp is gone without removing much metal from the mouth of the pocket.

  3. #3
    Boolit Master
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    I use an RCBS primer pockets swagging tool--works just fine.

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    Boolit Bub WVHunter129's Avatar
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    Just getting into reloading 223/5.56 rounds and most of mine is mil surp. I bought the RCBS Swage Combo II kit and once I got it setup it was quick. Seems to have done a fine job taking care of the crimp and it does appear that the primer pocket has a slight bevel to it.

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  5. #5
    Boolit Master
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    I would use the swage to remove the crimp followed by a Sinclair pocket reamer if you want a very uniform pocket. The sinclair is carbide which should last several lifetimes and cuts very fast. If you're just wanting blasting ammo I wouldn't bother with the pocket reamer.

  6. #6
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    Just as long as the primer is held smartly, it makes no difference how much brass is left there around the back of the case. ... felix
    felix

  7. #7
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    I ream all mine but I started with the BMG. The hand held reamer just didn't do the trick so now I use Wilson's case trimmer with the BMG primer pocket reamer. It does the best job I have ever seen on the crimped primer pockets. Since I already had the trimmer I use it for 30-06 & 223. Works just as well withe those too.

    Bob
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  8. #8
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    For exactly the reason Jim mentioned in his post I prefer to swage rather than ream. Have a Dillon 600 and an RCBS primer pocket swage tools. Prefer the Dillon over the RCBS
    Paul G.
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  9. #9
    Boolit Buddy

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    I've reamed and swaged. I prefer swaged. I've listened to the arguments for both and done both. IMO swaging is easier and faster. Reaming and truing is more precise.

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  10. #10
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    Ed in North Texas's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wally View Post
    I use an RCBS primer pockets swagging tool--works just fine.
    Ditto. Been using the RCBS PP Swaging tool since either '69 or so. Stroke of the press handle and the job is done without any possibility of overcutting. Put a bucket under the press and the brass will fall into the bucket while you put the next piece up. Use a Primer Pocket uniformer after if you wish (e.g. Sinclair).

    Ed

  11. #11
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    I wouldn't want to do a few thousand(at once) with it. But the CH4D Swager works perfectly. It's also very affordable. Just another option to consider.


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  12. #12
    DEADBEAT UNIQUEDOT's Avatar
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    Lyman has a pedestal crank kit which is inexpensive and comes with a variety of helpful tools for prepping brass including crimp removal. I use it for small batches of brass, but turn to a dewalt drill for large batches. I used to have one of the L.E. Wilson cutters and it was so sharp and fast i regret not keeping it.

  13. #13
    Boolit Master
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    Well this is a first... While looking at different pocket swaging set ups on Midway something clicked in my head. Not only had I seen one before, but I actually owned one. That got me digging through an old box of misilanious reloading equipment I had gotten from my grandfather when he passed away. Sure enough I found an old RCBS primer pocket swage kit. I set it up and the thing works like a charm and primers seat nice and smooth.

  14. #14
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    I use the RCBS swaging tool. Just be careful with how you setup the die when doing .223, especially if it's mixed headstamp. The rod is easy to bend. I'm on my 3rd one. Fortunately, a call to RCBS customer service gets a new one on it's way fairly quick and for free.

  15. #15
    Boolit Buddy Longone's Avatar
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    2ndAmendmentNut, Just curious what the headstamp is on the brass? I had a bunch of Winchester brass that was crimped and went through the trouble of swaging them only to find out that after one firing the primer pockets were too big to hold a primer. If they are LC or WCC you should be good to go with the RCBS set up.

    Longone

  16. #16
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    If you swage un-crimped pockets it shouldn't do any harm.

    I have used both reamers and swagers too, I prefer to swage. The RCBS setup is pretty good, but the large primer swager leaves a step in rifle pockets about halfway down that makes seating the primers a pain the first few reloadings. I wish the tool was longer and reached all the way to the bottom of LR pockets. The SR swager works great.

    Gear

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Longone View Post
    2ndAmendmentNut, Just curious what the headstamp is on the brass?

    Longone
    About half is LC the other half Speer.

  18. #18
    Boolit Grand Master


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    Many years ago I purchased a hand reamer from Lyman. I pulled the reamer out of the purty handle and put it in my drill press. Over 40 years and MANY K of brass later it still works very fast.
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  19. #19
    Boolit Master
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    I have reamed and swaged. I have the RCBS kit, I've bent the rod and got the replacement. I also bought the stronger rod from e-bay. I will use the swager vs ream. I believe the Dillion is a better unit, but more expensive.

  20. #20
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    I use the older style RCBS swage kit, but not per the directions... I set the press up so that the ram stops about 1/4 inch short of camming over, then I "bounce" the ram against the stop rod. You get a feel for how hard to hit the handle very quickly, and never bend a rod, even using unsorted brass.

    FWIW, the new RCBS bench mount swager looks like a nice tool too. At about $80 retail, I would definitely consider picking one up if I had a lot of brass to process.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check