The first one I made was on a drill press with a file.
It was made from a Piece of grey PVC and a gas pipe 'B' nut fitting.
The last ones I made were on a lathe and I used round stock.
I have some photos and am on break so I will delete a bunch here so I can upload others.
I sure wish I knew how to find photos I have posted before the show again.
Dean, if you ever saw me on the course you would agree that my golf clubs would work better as lube cutter tools.
Longwood, would you be interested in making some of these tools and selling them to me? I'm looking for some that will work for .32 handguns, 9mm, .38/.357, and .30 caliber rifle. I would say you could use the same tool for the .30 caliber rifle and .32 handguns, and the same for 9mm, .38, and .357.
Currently casting and loading: .32 Auto, .380 Auto, .38 Special, 9X19, .357 Magnum, .257 Roberts, 6.5 Creedmoor, .30 WCF, .308 WCF, .45-70.
Here is link to a photo of two I made.
It is at post #19.
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=149507
I am retired and only work on my projects now.
I did two little chores this morning and have three more for today lined up.
Look for Wax Meister.
He sells a very nice one for a good price.
I stole his idea for mine so I don't want to step on his toes.
Buckshot makes another type.
See,,,
I told you I could probably do it outside.
This dish was solid paraffin two hours ago.
Last edited by Longwood; 07-16-2012 at 01:53 AM.
Another question -- what lube is good for pan lubing?
I have some Speed Green I tried, but I had trouble getting the boolits out -- too hard. Any suggestions?
When I lube my .45-70 boolits, I set my pan of lube on one of my lead furnaces, let it melt down while I'm casting. When I'm done casting I start setting the boolits up in one of those silicone baking pans. pour the lube and let it set. The old drip o matic works well to melt the lead while I'm melting some lead for a different caliber... Works for me!!!!!
Jack
When the government fears the people, there is liberty. When the people fear the government, there is tyranny.
“The democracy will cease to exist when you take away from those who are willing to work and give to those who would not.
Thomas Jefferson was one Smart guy. Now we need to find another one!!!
NRA Life member since 1971, SASS
Ret. IAFF Local 2928
You can count me in as a Pan Luber.. This where the flexible silicone baking pans really shine. Once the boolits are in the pan and the lube is solid, just peal the flexible silicone pan off and push the boolits out of the hardened lube from the back with a piece of dowel a little smaller in diameter than the boolits.
Shad
I believe in gold, silver, & lead, and the rights of free honest men... You can keep the "CHANGE"!
Shad
I make the cutters from fired brass of the caliber of bullets being cut. Don’t resize, drill out the FIRED primer and insert a nail backwards to push the bullet out. If you get the lube temp just right during cooling the bullets cut out with no effort. To hot messy to cool extra pressure required.
Dang, that blue lube is so purdy.
I've started pan lubing recently and I guess I'm still learning.
I tried pushing the bullits out of the lube and ended up with some of them covered in great gobs of lube and others with the lube pulled out of the grooves, don't know if this is because of the recipe or the temp of the lube when I tried it. My old recipe was liquid Alox and beeswax 50/50, and the new recipe is Alox, Lithium grease, and beeswax 30/30/30
I knocked up a cookie cutter from an old 303 case which I cut the neck off and swaged down to make a 357 cutter. The cutter ended up slightly out of round so my bullits come out with the grooves filled but with an extra smear up one side. No problem, push them through a Lee sizer and that extra lube gets taken off and I just scrape it off the bottom of the sizer die every now and then and drop it back into the lube pan.
Wife picked up a couple golf clubs for me yesterday for $5 bucks at Good Sammys so I will try making cutters from them.
One thing I found out about sizing after pan lubing is that the Lee sizer tends to not leave gobs of lube on the bullit noses if I size them base first as opposed to nose first as the die was meant to be used. I need to look at some way to make a nose punch to fit the base plunger, as the flat push through plunger and round nose bullits don't mix well.
Hard work made me what I am today,
Broken and broke
******************************
Bob
I tried pan lubing last night. I used a round metal top from a candy tin, Lyman Orange Magic stick lube, and a toaster oven left over from the previous owner of my house. I set the oven to 200 F and melted the lube. Then, I put the boolits in the lube and let 'em bake for 20 minutes. I let the boolits and lube cool to the point that the lube was just solidified but still a little squishy. Using a .30 WCF case with the bottleneck and rim removed as a cutter I removed the boolits and let them cool. Once I had my technique down I was making boolits that looked like they had been through a lube sizer.
The boolits were a Lee tumble lube .356 truncated cone and a conventional .358 flat point. The tumble lube lube slugs took a little more care to ensure that the lube was neither too thin or too thick, the conventional slugs were no trouble at all. Do tumble lube boolits work very well when pan lubed? I've already ordered a flat point slug of the same weight with conventional grooves which I will probably use instead. The Lyman Orange Magic lube came with my Big Dipper kit. It seems a little brittle for pan lubing but still works. I would say its a good choice for high velocity slugs. I have ordered a pound of 50/50 beeswax and alox lube. I have contacted Buckshot and he can provide me some real lube cutters, using a cut down cartridge case is slow and doesn't do the best job of cutting the excess lube.
Very pleased with the results so far, I just might be a pan luber from now on!!
Currently casting and loading: .32 Auto, .380 Auto, .38 Special, 9X19, .357 Magnum, .257 Roberts, 6.5 Creedmoor, .30 WCF, .308 WCF, .45-70.
I've been thinking alot about cost effective lube cutters and may have found something. I went to Lowe's at lunch today and looked around their plumbing section. I found that a particular size of brass pipe coupling will almost fit a 9mm boolit. The package says "1/2", I'm not sure whether thats ID or OD. I bought a couple of different types, I figure I could roll some abrasive around a rod and hone it to the correct size. Will report the results as soon as I am able.
Currently casting and loading: .32 Auto, .380 Auto, .38 Special, 9X19, .357 Magnum, .257 Roberts, 6.5 Creedmoor, .30 WCF, .308 WCF, .45-70.
If I recall correctly, my first one was a 44 that I made with this type fitting or some similar, made from brass, that I modified on a drill press, with a file, so the hole was the correct size and it had a long slight angle on the cutter.
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-25ec...&storeId=10051
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/cata...LL#/?c=1&Nao=7
The nipple I used is here on page four, called a riser. In the garden dept, I suppose.
The nipple can be cut to any desirable length.
A glue type cap modified so it will slip easily, on and off the end, makes it easier on the palm.
I plan on being in the shop later, if I see it, I will post a photo.
Last edited by Longwood; 06-21-2012 at 08:54 PM.
Hello, everyone. Pan lube for just about everything. Finally got around to lubing the Lyman 252435..25ACP, this is for an original W.J. Jeffery .255 rook rifle I am working on getting to talk again. Even though I have pan lubed .22 bullets in the past..those little short r.n. slugs sure are slippery little devils! I was using a modified version of a tried & true mix of B.W., Anhyd. Lanolin, & Castor oil...with the addition of Randy Rats Carnuaba. I usually just push bullets out base first..letting the bullet itself cut clean & grooves filled flush..this works well with the softer lubes I normally use.
I use carnauba red and used to pan lube. The problem I had was after cutting the boolits out of the cake they would end up with lube on the noses that I had to wipe off. So I made a die for my press that allows me to extrude a "string" of lube. I forget the exact diameter but I think it's around .070, I take this string and press it into the groove and then scrape the excess off with an old debit card edge. Now no more wiping (although I still have to scrape) and the noses and bases are spiffy clean when done. I can get about a 24" "string" with each cavity full of lube. If the boolits need sized they get that with a push through after being lubed. All told I think this process is faster for me than pan lubing.
Is this a......what day is this??
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |