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Thread: Rusty Guns

  1. #1
    Boolit Grand Master Char-Gar's Avatar
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    Rusty Guns

    I am something of a nut about taking care of my guns and have never had rust problems with one exception. Way back when, I would hunt ducks from a blind in the shallow waters of the Texas Laguna Madre. No matter how well I oiled the receiver of my shotgun, it would have a fine coat of rust at the end of the day.

    I solved the problem by giving the metal a coat of Liquid Turtle Wax car wax. No problems after that. I have also done the same for hunting rifles as well, if it is damp or raining at all. I don't know how common this is, but it worked well for me over the years.
    Disclaimer: The above is not holy writ. It is just my opinion based on my experience and knowledge. Your mileage may vary.

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Char-Gar View Post
    I am something of a nut about taking care of my guns and have never had rust problems with one exception. Way back when, I would hunt ducks from a blind in the shallow waters of the Texas Laguna Madre. No matter how well I oiled the receiver of my shotgun, it would have a fine coat of rust at the end of the day.

    I solved the problem by giving the metal a coat of Liquid Turtle Wax car wax. No problems after that. I have also done the same for hunting rifles as well, if it is damp or raining at all. I don't know how common this is, but it worked well for me over the years.
    Wax is GOOD!
    Oil just does not hold up. Sheath or Barricade does well as does LPS-3.
    I use wax on my muzzle loaders and even stick a bunch in the barrel channels so it squeezes out when I install the barrel. That keeps rain from going down between the barrel and stock to get into the pan.
    Wax that wood too!

  3. #3
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    Old Ironsights's Avatar
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    I use paste wax on my "in the white" BP guns.
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  4. #4
    Boolit Bub

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    Ha, never thought of that...guess the 11-87 will be sportin' a new shine this winter. Outstanding

  5. #5
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    Great idea for our goose guns, they take a beating all season, it sure would be nice to give them a bit tougher protection!
    Raisin' Black Angus cows, outta gas, outta money, outta tags, low on boolits, but full 'a hope on the Rocky Mountain Eastern Slope!
    Why does a man with a 7mag never panic buy? Because a man with a 7mag has no need to panic!

    "If you ain't shootin', you should be reloadin' if you ain't reloadin' you should be movin', if you ain't movin', somebody's gonna come by and cut your head off and put it on a stick!" Words to fight by, from Clint Smith

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    Nu-finish is what I use on guns before a possible "wet" hunting trip.

    I've been thinking about waxing the outside of my reloading dies, they always get rusty from handling/adjusting.

    Gear

  7. #7
    Boolit Bub Dusty Wheeler's Avatar
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    LPS3 has been wonderful! It dries to a waxy coat and I'm sure would gum up the action but on exposed metal it will keep the rust off.

  8. #8
    Boolit Master
    429421Cowboy's Avatar
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    That is a great idea on the dies gear! Mine always get coated in oil before i store them but seems like they always come out with at least a few tiny specks of rust on them.
    Raisin' Black Angus cows, outta gas, outta money, outta tags, low on boolits, but full 'a hope on the Rocky Mountain Eastern Slope!
    Why does a man with a 7mag never panic buy? Because a man with a 7mag has no need to panic!

    "If you ain't shootin', you should be reloadin' if you ain't reloadin' you should be movin', if you ain't movin', somebody's gonna come by and cut your head off and put it on a stick!" Words to fight by, from Clint Smith

  9. #9
    Boolit Buddy Grandpas50AE's Avatar
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    When I duck hunted back in the 60's up in the northeast I would have the same problem. Could always get the outside protected that way, but that didn't do much for the internal parts (sear, hammer/spring, etc.). One of the first coatings I saw that worked really well, in the 70's, was ArmorCoat (or something like that) that was an ionized nickel coating that was impervious to salt water, sulfuric acid, and countless other things, that my brother and I had a few things treated in. The guy who invented it was in Fort Worth, and sold his operation to a larger company that did not exercise QC and got a bad reputation - so the coating and process got shelved by the company that bought out the rights to it. Really too bad, it was a really tough coating that all parts could be treated and gun would never rust again (they would detail strip and treat all parts).
    Sure wish someone was doing that treatment now'a'days.
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  10. #10
    Boolit Master



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    I'll bet that was Armalloy....................
    JMHO-YMMV
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  11. #11
    Boolit Master




    41 mag fan's Avatar
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    Man that a trick I'll have to use this coming spring for turkeys, or this fall if we go north for deer, where the guns get cold then possibly sweat from heat variations.

    Wonder if I could use a buffer and get a high lustre shine on my 870?

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    Corrosion X is a great product if you have highly acidic sweat, as I do. True Value used to carry it, don't know if they still do...

  13. #13
    Boolit Grand Master popper's Avatar
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    Real spay on Pledge, not WW. My finger acid cuts right through the regular wax.

  14. #14
    Boolit Master bearcove's Avatar
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    Shellac works well. Old school way. Good for on a boat in the salt.

    Lasts good cleans off with mineral spirits.

  15. #15
    Boolit Buddy Centaur 1's Avatar
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    I remove the stock from my guns and coat all of the hidden metal, like the underside of barrel and action, with Recluse lube or LLA. I brush it on and let it dry before reinstalling the stock. If water gets into these areas while i'm hunting, I don't have to worry about rust forming before I get a chance to clean it up.

  16. #16
    Boolit Buddy
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    Kiwi shoe polish works for me.

  17. #17
    Boolit Buddy michiganvet's Avatar
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    @steg; do you use the clear? We used that to clean and polish the barrack floors in basic back in the early 60's

  18. #18
    Boolit Bub
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    collenite insulater wax
    with out a doubt the toughest longest lasting wax i ever used , just be sure to get the liquid wax , easy on easy off .

  19. #19
    Boolit Buddy SlippShodd's Avatar
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    I'll have to try the wax. I have the sweaty/acidic hands problem and tend to leave rusty handprints on receivers and such. It's... annoying.
    I bought a used Uberti Henry replica years ago and since there's no forward wood, this may be a nice solution. Whoever had it before me must have had the same problem, 'cuz it had rusty handprints on the steel and even the brass receiver was tarnished badly. I had all the steel reblued and have been very careful of wiping it down after every use. I have a thing for brass and steel guns, so maybe this will keep the brass looking good too.

    mike
    I saw this in a cartoon once. I'm pretty sure I can pull it off...

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check