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Thread: Savage barrel nut torque

  1. #1
    Boolit Master
    Lefty SRH's Avatar
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    Savage barrel nut torque

    Does anyone know the torque spec for a Savage barrel nut? I removed my stock barrel some time ago in hopes of rebarrelling but that didn't happen. I've bought go and no-go head space gauges and want to reinstall my factory barrel but don't know the torque.
    Anyone have that spec handy? Its a 1.060" nominal size barrel it it matters.
    Last edited by Lefty SRH; 06-03-2012 at 10:49 AM.

  2. #2
    Boolit Master
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    i watched a video where a guy ran a forumula for the leverage expressed by the long handle of the typical 2 nut sized wrench. the forumla gave a wrench plus a torque wrench is "35 LBS" needed. there are lots of videos on youtube to show the process and you might find the video of the guy punching the numbers.

  3. #3
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    tomme boy's Avatar
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    Tight. Thats all I have ever done with the Savage rifles I have done. Usually just smack the nut wrench with a dead blow hammer a coulpe of times and call it good.

  4. #4
    Boolit Master
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    I recently re-barreled my Lee Enfield using the Savage Barrel Nut method just to make it easier to headspace.

    You don't have to apply a massive amount of torque. I just tightened it as tight as I could using a 24" long home made nut wrench.

    You can google up the Savage forum and find the exact amount of torque the factory applies to their rifles. I used to be a member there till my subscription ran out but, you don't have to be a member to read what's already posted.

    You'll find that alot of the more experienced barrel swappers don't re-apply the same amount of torque or tightness to their barrel nuts as the factory. It's just not necessary.

    HollowPoint

  5. #5
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Tighten it till it screams then go another turn and a half. You want to actualy see the action bending and distorting under the pressure of the wrench......
    That's BS, I'm just pulling your leg!
    You need it snug, but not white knuckle tight to a silverback ape. Its a dandified bolt for Pete's sake. Tighten it up solid and let er ride. You don't need a torque wrench. One of my buddies actually spins the action shut and gives the bolt handle a light bonk with a hammer while it's in the lathe to set the threads, and calls it good. He builds target rifles. Admittedly, you want more than that with a savage style setup, but still, tight enough is tight enough.
    Precision in the wrong place is only a placebo.

  6. #6
    Boolit Grand Master 303Guy's Avatar
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    The Lee Enfield does need to be tight because of the left hand rifling and right hand thread so it won't come loose on firing. Having said that I found one of mine to be loose and held in place by the fore-end and it seemed to shoot quite accurately.

    Basically one wants the nut to apply a force on the threads greater than the force applied by firing the gun. No idea what that might be.
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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check