Lee PrecisionRepackboxLoad DataRotoMetals2
Inline FabricationMidSouth Shooters SupplyReloading EverythingWideners
Titan Reloading
Results 1 to 3 of 3

Thread: Ruger No.3 Question

  1. #1
    Banned
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    129

    Ruger No.3 Question

    I must be gett'in soft, since it seems to me that my old friend is now kicking the $#!+ out of me now. I have had a Ruger No.3 in 45/70 for many years now and I have been using the same load as it gives such nice performance. I don't want to reduce my load. ( 50 grains of Reloder #7 with a 457124 ).
    My question is : Does anyone know if a Ruger No.1 stock will drop into a Ruger No.3 without modificatios?
    I don't have the bucks to do the custom thing.
    That curved buttplate has become annouying in my "old" age!

    Thanx DUST

  2. #2
    Boolit Master August's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    751
    May I suggest a lace on butt pad????? They look good on traditional rifles, like the no.3. Alternatively, I wear a Past Recoil Shield when I shoot my number 3 and light weight hi-wall. Works for me.

    Yes, wood will drop in, but please don't wreck that No. 3.

  3. #3
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Omaha, NE
    Posts
    1,625
    I've got three Ruger No. 3's. Two of them have No. 1 wood on them. One was bought that way. I changed the second one (if I did it right, the picture is below). I am now working on restocking the third one with No. 1 wood.

    I don't know if finished No. 1 wood will work on the No. 3 without any fitting. The two I have were 95% finished. Both required fitting, but I don't think it was because it was a No. 3. Just normal fitting for a near finished stock.

    The one pictured is a 30-40 Krag. The first time I shot it (with factory loads and the original metal buttplate), I literally had a black and blue mark on my shoulder afterward. Before going to this extreme, I put recoil pads on both the No. 3 stocks (the other one is a .375 Winchester). It helped, but did not make shooting enjoyable. Part of the problem is that the No. 3 stock has more drop at the heel and the area at the rear of the stock is less than a No. 1.

    I bought a 7mm/30-40 Krag Improved wildcat No. 3 that already had a No. 1 stock. Recoil was a pussycat. I decided to change my 30-40. Finished it a month or two ago and took it shooting. The difference in felt recoil is like night and day. Then my wife tried it and demanded that I do the same to hers. That is the one I am working on now (although in .375 Win, I load it with BP to make a faux 38-55 -- she likes BP).

    Anyway, if you are having a problem with recoil on a No. 3, changing to No. 1 wood will definitely help.


Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check