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Thread: .22 Swage die set...

  1. #21
    Boolit Buddy


    R.Ph. 380's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dancingbear41 View Post
    That is a very nice looking bullet. I marvel at the talent people have to make such precise tools.
    Praise over, I am now seeking some advice. A number of years ago I baught a set of .22 swaging dies dies from an outfit called Sport Flite, no longer trading I believe. I have managed to swage some quite nice bullets from .22 jackets that shoot to approx. 1MOA from my Remington .222 varmint rifle. The frustrating part is the large number of failures I get at the final stage of swaging the bullet. Considering the amount of work put in up to that stage it is very disappointing.

    What is the technique for forming the bullet? Is it a very gently movement into the die or a swift one? The literature I have read doesn't sem to explain this at all clearly.

    I am limited to jackets made from .22 brass. I live in the UK and I have never seen .22 jackets for sale. I did come across a quantity of old .22 ammo, wartime Eley stuff that has a copper case and they make quite nice jackets.

    Any advice gratefully recieved. Thanks.

    Simon.
    I have read that to prevent the "folding" of the point/top rim of the 22, you should "anneal" the whole case before attempting to swage it to prevent the"folding". Never having used the 22 dies, I'm not sure, just what I've read while trying to get up on the whole idea.

    Bill

  2. #22
    Boolit Master

    Reload3006's Avatar
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    Annealing .... heat the derimmed 22 case until it is cherry red allow to cool or quench is fine its non ferrous the folds and splits come from work hardened brass bringing it to its completely soft state allows it to fold / form more easily

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Reload3006 View Post
    Annealing .... heat the derimmed 22 case until it is cherry red allow to cool or quench is fine its non ferrous the folds and splits come from work hardened brass bringing it to its completely soft state allows it to fold / form more easily
    Is it better to derim the case before or ater annealing?

  4. #24
    Boolit Master

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    I have found to derim first. if you anneal (or at least its been my experience) first it seems to me I have more punch throughs.

  5. #25
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    Always derim 22lr case first then anneal after it has been derimed. This is teh only time we swage anything that is not first annealed.

    Otherwise the 22LR case tends to stick to punch or the punch completly pushes threw bottom of case.

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  6. #26
    Boolit Master

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    Reloader3006 and BT have it right. That is unless you enjoy trashing future jackets and depositing them into your recycle bin. I very seldom get failures when do this way.
    "The right of the people to keep and bear...arms shall not be infringed. A well regulated militia, composed of the body of the people, trained to arms, is the best and most natural defense of a free country..." (James Madison, I Annals of Congress 434 [June 8, 1789])


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  7. #27
    Boolit Bub Rolling Stone's Avatar
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    Something to think about; If you are annealing with a propane torch individually. Why would you anneal the whole case. I only do about the upper 1/4" or so and don't take the time to heat the head area. I was watching a youtube about this and the operator was holding the case with a pair of needle nose pliers. The pliers take up a lot of the heat from the torch. I have a length of stainless wire that I put the case on and don't have that problem. I noticed also that the fellow doing the annealing didn't have a clue as to the hot part of the flame from his torch and it took him a long time to get the case hot. I usually turn my lighting down so I can see when the red appears. Also don't forget to wash the primer residue out of the case before you derim.
    Rolling Stone

  8. #28
    Boolit Master
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    I would anneal the whole case simply because it softens the base so when in seating the cores it is easier on your dies and your punch as well. I would assume less pressure to expand the base to the .223 diameter if it is annealed.
    "Consequently we move away from other shooters to remain focused on our passion, as our ideas are quickly dismissed or misunderstood by others. Sharing does not come easily for swagers, not because they are necessarily selfish, but because they have been whittling away in their only little world for so long, that being able to relate to others what they understand is no simple task."

    ​Mentor



  9. #29
    Boolit Buddy marten's Avatar
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    Actually found that annealing after de-rim (before core-seat) is best, less punch through and the quality of the de-rimmed jacket is more consistent. Have tried both ways!

    A few test cases - was messing around with the flare.


  10. #30
    Boolit Bub Rolling Stone's Avatar
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    Inquiring minds want to know

    Why are you flaring the cases? I had never thought of that.
    Rolling Stonen


    Quote Originally Posted by marten View Post

    A few test cases - was messing around with the flare.


  11. #31
    Boolit Master
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    One reason to flare them is to expand them up in size for use as a 6mm jacket.

  12. #32
    Boolit Buddy marten's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MIBULLETS View Post
    One reason to flare them is to expand them up in size for use as a 6mm jacket.
    Yes, for expansion up to 6mm.

  13. #33
    Boolit Buddy marten's Avatar
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    Core Swage Die;


  14. #34
    Boolit Buddy marten's Avatar
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    Sample of fired brass, de-rim with core swage and core seat (seat and expand to 6mm)


  15. #35
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    Marten, if you don't mind. What are the dimensions of your 6mm de-rim and punch? Thanks

  16. #36
    Boolit Buddy marten's Avatar
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    Have not got them to hand, will measure and post on Monday if that is ok?

  17. #37
    Boolit Buddy marten's Avatar
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    Measured my set (forgot about them!)
    De-rim bore .219
    Punch ø .201

  18. #38
    Boolit Buddy
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    Thanks

  19. #39
    Boolit Buddy marten's Avatar
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    onwards...

    point form reamer


  20. #40
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    First couple of 6mm samples,


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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check