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Thread: 6.5x55 mm

  1. #81
    Boolit Buddy
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  2. #82
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    i also made me an new bipod for my spottingscope.
    the original was kind of unstable.
    this one ive made out of stainless steel , its compact to take with me when folded in , very stable folded out.

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  3. #83
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    and folded out...Click image for larger version. 

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  4. #84
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    That's the best looking bullet uniforming method I've seen, but it seems to me the better method would be to attack whatever is causing your bullets to cast with varying weights; in a 150 grain 6.5 mm boolit, you shouldn't see more than a grain or so weight variation if you're getting good mold fill and the blocks close the same every pour. Bases should be sharp and smooth around the perimeter, a little mark from the sprue cut (I hear) does no harm.

    If you are getting more variation than that, shortening the heavy boolits looks to me like the wrong thing to do, converting heavier boolits into shorter, fatter ones; instead, if you're shooting a task where extreme accuracy is needed, you should be inspecting your boolits, discarding any that are out of round, have damaged bases, or larger diameter than the rest, then sorting by weight and using only the heaviest (implying most complete fill), though elimination of bad pours will also eliminate virtually all of the weight variation. For every day shooting, including hunting at reasonable ranges (out to 200 yards, at least) visually sorting defective boolits will get rid of enough variation not to matter.

  5. #85
    Boolit Master PS Paul's Avatar
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    Man, whyat a fun read. Good work there, Edwin. I have a '96 and a '95 in 7x57 that I jujt got a mold for. I have been trying to get a 6.5 mold on e-bay, but keep getting overbid. Ah, such is life. I read this with great interest, so thanks for posting and pleae, keep sharing!
    Paul
    A government that robs from Peter to pay Paul can always depend on the support of Paul.

  6. #86
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    well paul , i can explain why the bullets vary in weight i think.
    i make my alloy with pure lead and solderbar for the tin , i weigh my lead and this weight : 40 x 3 is the weight of solder i add.
    i weigh this material on an inexpencive kitchenscale , so it may vary from time to time , hence the weight difference.
    as for the mold , i am very pleased with the lyman 140 gr loverinstyle , its a borerider.
    i start my patch just above the first drivingband , the nose is left bare.

  7. #87
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    i make mine ,
    i dont take of much of the bulletbase , more like uniforming them a bit.
    i will take some more effort the next time i do some casting , as soon i have this bunch shot.

    its a great way to better understand the bullets for me ... but one step at a time.

  8. #88
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    and yes i make mine,
    took a good look at my casts and some of them are indeed out of round and some of them a little bend.
    the bended ones i think are no problem , they all get a final sizing in a lyman lubsizer and since i cast them soft i think theire straightened out just fine.
    the ones out of round are more of a concern , i altered my homemade push through sizer a bit , it first had a sharp edge
    that did the sizing , and i sized in two or more steps.
    the desired diameter for me is 6.45 mm and i noticed that when i would size in one step that the nose is centering the
    bullet somewhat in the sizer , so the goal would be to size in one step , without bending the bullet.
    i turned the sharp edge into a taper , and polished it with my dremel.
    if it doesnt work okee i make me a complete new sizer or insert.

    i also noticed at the range when looking through the sights of different rifles that the aperture of the rear sight is much bigger then mine , and i could definitly could aim better with these.
    i ll try to make me a new rear aperture for my rifle for testing this , just need me to find some correct threadcutters first.

  9. #89
    Boolit Grand Master 303Guy's Avatar
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    Thanks for all of that edwin41. Your boolit trimmer is such a great idea! It could be used for cutting a hollow or depression in the nose too. But skimming off that awful sprue pluck and base edge feathering is the way to go. Clever idea that O-ring trick! I'd like to buy you a beverage of good repute.

    edwin41
    Rest In Peace My Son (01/06/1986 - 14/01/2014)

    ''Assume everything that moves is a human before identifying as otherwise''

  10. #90
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    thanks .303..
    i might take you up on that beverage you know...

    nice idea you have there , one could make a good hollowpoint with the trimmer.
    the handle can be set at a certain dept so the noses will be cut the same over and over.
    have to think about it some , but i think you got something there.... very good idea!
    Last edited by edwin41; 11-27-2012 at 05:38 PM.

  11. #91
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    for today i made me a batch of 25 bullets , wich i sorted at weight and trimmed the base a bit , so they were flattend.
    still put on a paper disc at the base of the bullet , still loaded with 19.5 gr powder.
    the results were the best i had so far , so the base of the bullet is a key thing in this caliber i think.
    i also noticed that a bend bullet is easy detected and to bend straight with this trimmer set up..

    still loading , still shooting , still learning....

  12. #92
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    hi , a little update
    recently i found a reload data sheet from a german compagnie called H&N sports , they are specialized in making bullets , for reduced loads in various calibers.
    for this caliber , 6.5x55 mm , they make a 140 gr , soft lead , with a copperplating finish.
    the load they have tested , with exellent results is 11.5 gr of vithavouri n 110 powder.
    with this in mind i made a badge of 25 cartridges , my casted bullets sized down and carefully weight down.
    two wraps of paper and then sized to .264", with a light coat of beeswax/ vaseline mix.
    i used a load of 12 gr vithavouri n 110 and a federal primer for my testing.
    its a pleasant to shoot cartridge , no signs of over or underpressure , and best of all ........ very accurate.
    the best results i have so far is with this load .

  13. #93
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    hmmm... i got some new info now.
    recently there was an accident with a swedisch mauser and the use of N110 powder in a reduced load.
    in this case it was a reloader with more than 20 years experience in reloading that blew up his fine swede..

    there is also talk of at least two more accidents involving swedes and N110 powder.
    in the data sheets of H&N sport its clearily stated... 11.5 gr N110 with their 140 gr bullets.

    got to think about it sometime ... for now i go back to the lovex d060 powder.

  14. #94
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    still shooting my swede from time to time.
    i went back to the lovex d 060 powder as i mentioned.
    made me a batch of 25 new cartridges , paying extra care to the bullets.
    i sorted some by weight , and visual inspection , i could see some irregulaties at some off them , wich tells me i have to rethink my sizing down to the 6.45 mm , will look in to that .
    then i wet a paper disc and stuck them to the base of the bullet , i believe that this is the key of my good results.
    i wrap them with the paper wet , and i twist the tail so that it shears of , its a gascheck design bullet , so the paper shears off
    in a way that a tiny piece of paper is still present , wich i tap over the paper disc , then let dry overnight.
    a run through the lubesizer .264 with a beeswax / vaseline mix and their good to go.
    the casings i primed are standing upside down , i weigh my powder , 19.5 gr , by scooping up an amount and put this in the scale , and with the trickler to the correct amount. i scoop the powder by using a .38 special casing , 19.5 gr is almost a full case
    now i turn over my casing and pour in the powder with a funnel , take a bullet and seat this bullet at 75 mm oal.
    this is a little too long , but when loaded the bold makes the final lenght . when i finish one cartridge like this i take the next.
    my thinking would be that this method would eliminate the danger of overloading the casing with a double charge .
    the casings are still the same ive been using since i started patching , i shot 350 loads with this batch , still no signs of cracks or wear and they are cheap prvi partizan casings.
    i do anneal the necks from time to time and make them real soft too , with a propane torch i heat them to some red glow , then i let them cool of , no water or anything , so the heat will sink in good.

    this is a very nice load , low recoil and gives me good accurasy , i think i cant shoot any better with factory ammo , so it suits me just fine. i only shoot them out to 100 meters by the way.

    man , these swedes are fine rifles.

  15. #95
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    so , still tinkering with my patched 140 grainer.
    results are getting better , i think its not the ammo that is the deciding factor , its my shooting that is somewhat improved.
    i am now shooting with the belt that came with the rifle when i bought it , and it turns out that this belt is the original swedisch
    sharpshooters belt... hmm , its been laying in a closet all the time , never knew what it was , until i saw a picture of it.
    got some ideas to work out in the near future too.
    ive been given a sort off press , used to punch holes in leather or so , and i will try to convert this into a bulletsizer.
    got some ideas how to make this work , when ready ill post some pictures.
    also im working on a sort of machine that will hold my rifle in position , a sort of machine rest that eleminates the human factor
    when shooting the rifle , for further testing my load .
    also found me a papercutter , wich i will try to convert to a patch cutter , so i can make a whole bunch in advance.
    ah yes... projects projects....
    must say that im getting more and more pleased with the caliber .
    easy to cast bullets for , easy patched , pleasant to shoot and plenty powerfull.
    next saturday i will shoot another match with this rifle , and my trusted load of 19.5 gr of lovex d 060 powder , lets see how it will work out this time..

    greetings from holland mi amigos !

  16. #96
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    i wet a paper disc and stuck them to the base of the bullet , i believe that this is the key of my good results.
    i wrap them with the paper wet , and i twist the tail so that it shears of , its a gascheck design bullet , so the paper shears off
    in a way that a tiny piece of paper is still present , wich i tap over the paper disc
    That made me sit up and take note! Keep it coming edwin41. I'm looking forward to photo's - photo's of all you're doing!

    Could you tell us or direct us to more details on the blow-ups too please? It's highly possible that N110 is not the only powder that could give trouble in the Swede or any other similar ratio cartridges. It's a shame to lose a Swede - they have an interesting place in history.

    Greetings from New Zealand - discovered and named by a Hollander, Abel Tasman.
    Rest In Peace My Son (01/06/1986 - 14/01/2014)

    ''Assume everything that moves is a human before identifying as otherwise''

  17. #97
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    no , i havent got any pictures of the blown swede , just the stories.
    mine is performing exellent so far with the AA5744 powder , i dont think i have a over or underpressure , feels allright too.

    yes i will post pictures when i have something finished , but for now ive got some other priorities.

  18. #98
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    so , ive shot the match on saturday.
    results where not so great , but at least i know where it went wrong.
    after a few shots my left arm got really tired from the weight of the rifle and i had a hard time to keep my sights correctly aimed.
    i really have to work on my techniques for better results , in time i will get there.
    the rifle itself is performing really good , by now the inside of the barrel looks like mirror bright from shooting paperpatched bullets exclusively. my load is also performing really well , it capable of so much more than me , so okay for now.
    when i got my shooting machine i can further finetune my load , for now its exellent for the purpose.
    i post some pictures of the results of the match , 30 shots at 100 metres, prone position , off hand.
    the score is maximum 300 points , my score was 128 points , better luck next time i hope...
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  19. #99
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    and ofcourse shot with this rifle....
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  20. #100
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    and this would be the start of my machine-rest , for further finetuning of my preffered load.
    i think the idea is a simple one , two heavy pieces of steel with two stainles steel rods will be the base.
    on these rods will roll a set of rubbercoated bearings , so it can be adjusted to have no play , there will be another set of these bearings added to take up the sideway play.
    a large u-shaped piece of metal will take two center bearings for rotation left-right and the two bearings in the fotoo would give the to be added sub-frame a up-down movement. the sub-frame should hold the rifle in a steady position.
    in the front of the device there will be one or two springs to take up the recoil , and push back in starting position...[v-notch].
    this spring or springs will have a adjustment nut for pre-tension.
    i think i will control the subframe with two gasdampers or so.

    i think the tricky parts will be the gunholding cradle , ive got no ideas for this yet, but it will come in time.
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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check