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Thread: 6.5x55 mm

  1. #161
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    290
    so , not really related to the wrapping of lead but i ran in another issue.

    i mounted my faldt diopter to my rifle to find out that the shots came up way to high , due to the milling down of my frontsight i did earlier
    for lining up the iron sights at 100 mtrs with my reduced loads.

    shooting with the iron sights was getting more and more difficult to do for me , cant see the target straight no more .
    ah well... such is life and a long time ago i mounted a time correct repro scope and sidemount [1942] to the rifle , like the M41 rifle at the time.

    anyways , i wanted to try the diopter , model FALDT , on this rifle to see how this would work out .
    the frontsight was clearly milled to short for this set up as the diopter was set down as low as it would go , so i need a higher post.

    drove out the frontsight and looked around at the internet , and yes , they can be ordered , but mostly in america , so thats timeconsuming
    and the shippingcosts would not be to shabby either.

    after looking closely at the frontsight it didn t seem to be a lot of work to make me one , so i set up my milling machine and with a little milling and some fine filing i ended up with a very nice new frontsight.
    i even made the post thinner than original for a better sightpicture , it looks very sharp.

    i blackened the sight using a flame and some oil , it worked out very well as it was an instand deep black that cannot be wiped off.

    looking forward to do some tests on the range and line up the new sight !
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    Last edited by edwin41; 04-12-2019 at 05:04 PM.

  2. #162
    Boolit Grand Master 303Guy's Avatar
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    Oct 2008
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    New Zealand
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    Looks good!

    How exactly does one do the flame soot and oil blackening? Can one do aluminium parts?

    There is a trick for blackening steel parts and that is to boil them in de-ionized water. I just used tap water in a stainless steel pot and it worked fine. It does require carding and intermediate rubbing down with fine steel wool so it's not just a drop in boiling water and take out a perfectly blued part but it is fun making a part and blueing it (more black actually).
    Rest In Peace My Son (01/06/1986 - 14/01/2014)

    ''Assume everything that moves is a human before identifying as otherwise''

  3. #163
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    290
    hi .303 ,

    to blacken a workpiece the old way is to heat the workpiece to an orange/red color , and then drop the piece in oil .
    the oil used back in the day was raw , unboiled linseed oil .
    after this treatment its enough to wipe down the workpiece with some petroleum or such ... the process is very quick and easy to do .

    also a very nice touch for several gunparts would be to obtain a steel container , wich you fill with brass chippings , like the chippings you get when milling brass...
    put the workpiece in this container so that the piece is fully covered with the chips and place the container on a heatsource , like a kitchenburner or so...
    every one in a while lift up the workpiece to check if the colouring is what you want it to be...
    the colouring will go from a yellow-ish to a nice deep bleu .
    if the desired colour is obtained , just let the workpiece cool off .
    this is also the method for the "color casehardened " look... just check every one in a while and stop if you have the desired effect.

    for a hard , deep black layer there is the option with the use of electrolyse.
    clean the workpiece using this process as usual , but after a while change polarity ...
    the workpiece then would get a black layer that looks like a very fine powder...
    polish this layer to a shine and it would look like enamel !
    this makes a hard and strong layer if done correctly , the trick is to not use a lot of electric power so that the layer builds up slow .

    the method for colouring aluminum is usually done through the electrolyse process
    i think its called anodizing , but no experience here on that subject , mabey in the future..

    ha , i think you have some experiments to do my friend...

  4. #164
    Boolit Grand Master 303Guy's Avatar
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    Thanks for that Edwin. Yeah, I do plan to experiment.
    Rest In Peace My Son (01/06/1986 - 14/01/2014)

    ''Assume everything that moves is a human before identifying as otherwise''

  5. #165
    Boolit Mold
    Join Date
    May 2018
    Posts
    28
    Nicely Done!

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check