WidenersSnyders JerkyLoad DataReloading Everything
RepackboxMidSouth Shooters SupplyLee PrecisionRotoMetals2
Titan Reloading Inline Fabrication
Results 1 to 8 of 8

Thread: 1876 Win Question

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Posts
    359

    1876 Win Question

    I recently bought a Italian 1876 in 45-60. I took the side plates off for some engraving and found that the pin that connects the toggles to the bolt is broken. From the looks of the grain it appears to be a cast piece.
    I really need to get the rifle back together and was wondering if anyone had an idea as to the hardness of this piece. I can scratch it with a file but was wondering if I could use a fitted and polished piece of round stock or worst case a cut down drill bit shank.
    I will get an actual replacement part as soon as I can.

  2. #2
    Boolit Master
    2ndAmendmentNut's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    1,751
    Your drill bit idea will work to put the rifle back together, but I don't know about shooting it like that.

  3. #3
    Boolit Master

    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Tennessee
    Posts
    1,795
    I have never seen a "cast" pin. I have also replaced many gun pins with the correct size drill bit shank. If the original broke so soon I would consider something better than the factory replacement.

    Larry

  4. #4
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Posts
    359
    I have never seen a cast pin either,but this thing sure looks like it. It didnt shear and the broken surface is definately not smooth.
    Thanks for the input guys. Greatly appreciated. At least I now have a use for the cheap numbered drill bit set I got for Christmas years ago.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master

    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Mtn West
    Posts
    2,188
    To be brutally honest, if that one part is suspect, then the rest of the parts in that gun would be suspect.... to me at least. I'd think mild steel stock would be too soft. On the opposite end of that thinking seems like drill bit stock may be too hard and brittle. Again just my thoughts since I have no idea of the correct metallurgy for those links and pins. I'd also consider using the shank off a grade 8 bolt and turning it down to the correct length and diameter- if you're bound and determined to shadetree that thing. Also, those pins are supposed to have near zero slop and tolerance when fitted to the links and the breech bolt. Jim at Tapaderas Winchesters builds replacement toggle link parts for 73s and 76s so he would have a much better idea as to correct metallurgy. Just google tapaderas winchesters and you'll find the site.

  6. #6
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Posts
    359
    For the record this rifle looks new but is used,previous owner said he used it in CAS rifle matches.
    Also a #24 drill bit is the exact size. I cut it to length and reassembled rifle and fired it using caution.
    Thank you 405, I will Google and contact Mr. Tapaderas ASAP for a proper replacement pin.
    Last edited by dmize; 04-28-2012 at 10:09 PM.

  7. #7
    Boolit Master

    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Mtn West
    Posts
    2,188
    Tapaderas Winchesters is a small "mom & pop" hobbie company that was run by Steve Bly and Jim Grueter. Steve passed away last year so now it's just Jim. He makes the Winchester parts. Haven't talked to him in about a year. Since the website is still running I assume Tapaderas is still in business. If so, he'll know exactly what you are talking about and would know the correct pin metallurgy and maybe know about the model of 76 you have, since some of the CAS shooters have those guns. Hope Jim is still in business and that he can help you.

  8. #8
    Boolit Master

    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Lewiston, Idaho
    Posts
    2,744
    I have made more than a few 73 pins and maybe a few 76 pins from pre-hardened spring steel and have not had any problems. When the action is closed the pins should not be taking any pressure, the links are cut to fit together so they take the pressure. The only reason for a hard pin is to keep the ware down. If your old pin looks like it was cast and broke, most likely it had been heat treated and fatigue failure would make it look like a broken cast part. The shank on drill bits are not hardened but would work in a pinch. Make sure the toggle links are fit together properly so the pin is not carrying the load during firing.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check