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Thread: Air Assisted Star Sizer

  1. #1
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    Air Assisted Star Sizer

    finally finished...

    9 inch double acting cylinder, foot operated flow controlled valve, bullet feeder to protect fingers...

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YyLPVWREGR8


    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=piNj5i00TbM

    works pretty dang GREAT....

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  2. #2
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    Wow that thing moves.

    Nice setup, but just a suggestion. I would look into adding an adjustable flow valve to slow the actuator a bit. You will still retain all the force necessary, it will just take a bit longer to make it there. Are you using a cushion in the cylinder to help reduce impact damage?

    When I bought my star sizer, I purchased the bullet feeder to automate my setup as much as possible. It is good to see you are keeping your fingers out of harms way.

    Keep up the great work.
    -Wildcat

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by WildcatBrass View Post
    Wow that thing moves.

    Nice setup, but just a suggestion. I would look into adding an adjustable flow valve to slow the actuator a bit. You will still retain all the force necessary, it will just take a bit longer to make it there. Are you using a cushion in the cylinder to help reduce impact damage?

    When I bought my star sizer, I purchased the bullet feeder to automate my setup as much as possible. It is good to see you are keeping your fingers out of harms way.

    Keep up the great work.
    flow control valves are installed...just need to fine tune....air is cushion enough....

    thanks for the suggestions....
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    I had to watch those videos a few more times. It is great to see that you got this thing working. I do have a few questions.

    What is the diameter of your cylinder?
    What air pressure are you currently running at?
    What is the distance from the handle axle to the link pin for the air cylinder?

    Yep, I am trying to figure out the force you are using to lube size the bullets.

    Also, one last question. Where did you get the bullet tubes from? I see you have a whole bunch of them in the second video. Do you load while watching TV or do you us a bullet feeder and then flip the tube top to bottom to get the bullets pointed the right way?
    -Wildcat

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by WildcatBrass View Post
    I had to watch those videos a few more times. It is great to see that you got this thing working. I do have a few questions.

    What is the diameter of your cylinder?
    What air pressure are you currently running at?
    What is the distance from the handle axle to the link pin for the air cylinder?

    Yep, I am trying to figure out the force you are using to lube size the bullets.

    Also, one last question. Where did you get the bullet tubes from? I see you have a whole bunch of them in the second video. Do you load while watching TV or do you us a bullet feeder and then flip the tube top to bottom to get the bullets pointed the right way?
    1-1/16" cylinder bore...McMaster-Carr says 62lbs of push at 100psi...

    100 psi

    9 inch stroke cylinder and the clevis is 4.5 inches from the handle axle center

    cant remember where i bought the bullet tubes...those bullets in the video are 38-130gr RNFP....i will probably just feet the bullet tube on the feeder....just as easy...i usually cast about 2500-3500 at a time....each tube holds 30 bullets...

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  6. #6
    Boolit Buddy
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    That is so awesome! I love it when people automate this sort of thing.

    Hands & fingers being kept out of harms way is a very good thing.

  7. #7
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    the tubes for the boolit feeder are 3/8ths and 1/2" clear plastic tubing.
    i got mine at a local plumbing supply store, they come in 10'-6" half lengths [airc] i cut them into 3 sections, each will hold 50-60 boolits.
    to make them i put a wrap of duct tape where i wanted to cut and drilled a hole for a 1/8th inch cotter pin.
    i made about 25 tubes of each size and can load them with about 1,000 boolits.
    it's all an educated guess,,,, till the trigger is pulled.

    the more i find out about shootin boolits, the more it contradicts everything i ever learned about shooting jaxketed.

  8. #8
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    update...

    throttled back the air flow to both sides of the cylinder....100psi is retained, but the action is much smoother and controlled....

    thanks for the advice WildCatBrass...

    now to automate the Master Caster....

    wyman
    Last edited by wymanwinn; 04-25-2012 at 06:46 PM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by wymanwinn View Post
    throttled back the air flow to both sides of the cylinder....100psi is retained, but the action is much smoother and controlled....

    thanks for the advice WildCatBrass...

    now to automate the Master Caster....

    wyman

    More video's please, I have been watching your video over and over thinking I should just get to work on mine.

    I just don't want to see a work of art break itself to pieces.

    You are working faster than me, I just have a list of projects. Keep us updated on how the master caster works out. Are you going for pneumatic, electric, or hydraulic?
    -Wildcat

  10. #10
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    Do you have a weak link in the system in case the bullet isn't lined with the die or the feeder fails to return?
    Joshua 1:9

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by WildcatBrass View Post
    More video's please, I have been watching your video over and over thinking I should just get to work on mine.

    I just don't want to see a work of art break itself to pieces.

    You are working faster than me, I just have a list of projects. Keep us updated on how the master caster works out. Are you going for pneumatic, electric, or hydraulic?
    slowing down the air flow (not pressure) on the Star makes the process much more manageable....no "weak link" in the system....the air is a cushion itself....had a couple of bullets (already lubed) stick in the feed...no problem as there is not enough pressure to hurt the Star...bullet only had another crease...LOL....probably need to make sure the bullet feeder is PERFECTLY clean...

    Master Caster will be air assisted too...with a 4way 3 position hand control....one spring return 5" stroke cylinder for the mold carrier and one 1/2" stroke spring return cylinder for the lead....using the 4 way valve i can control the two cylinders independently and it would prevent actuation of either cylinder at the same time....i think...and i will be able to "shake" the mold if necessary with the control valve....can do that with the Star too....that would be in the second video showing a re-stroke...did that to demonstrate a re-pump...

    hydraulic, i think, could be done but it less forgiving and more costly....electric would certainly be quieter but more cumbersome....

    i have compressed air already supplied to my reload room from my garage...200 ft away...

    sure hope this helps....

    wyman
    Last edited by wymanwinn; 04-26-2012 at 06:12 PM.
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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by WildcatBrass View Post
    More video's please, I have been watching your video over and over thinking I should just get to work on mine.

    I just don't want to see a work of art break itself to pieces.

    You are working faster than me, I just have a list of projects. Keep us updated on how the master caster works out. Are you going for pneumatic, electric, or hydraulic?
    will do on the "more videos please"....early next week...

    parts order for the Master Caster....prolly work on it next week...
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    Could you post a parts list and schematic of how you built this? I'd like to try and build one myself.
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  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by mktacop View Post
    Could you post a parts list and schematic of how you built this? I'd like to try and build one myself.

    knew this was coming...i'll work on it....

    wyman
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  15. #15
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    Thumbs up Looks great!

    This looks great, I tried (without success in using an electric motor). Im interested in parts list and schematic as well. I found the McMaster Carr cylinder online that you mentioned.

    How much air pressure are you running?

    The foot pedal is nice, but any idea on how to automate this as well?

    As I said, looks great! I'm subscribing to this thread!

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by scarry scarney View Post
    This looks great, I tried (without success in using an electric motor). Im interested in parts list and schematic as well. I found the McMaster Carr cylinder online that you mentioned.

    How much air pressure are you running?

    The foot pedal is nice, but any idea on how to automate this as well?

    As I said, looks great! I'm subscribing to this thread!
    my foot pedal is automated.....my brain says push the pedal and my foot does the work....joking....i like the idea that i can control the movement of the cylinder/lube arm, even stop it mid stroke or double pump the lube pump if needed....automating THAT would be difficult....i think...

    working on the parts list and procedure for this...

    wyman
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    Automation Threads

    I know you are still tinkering with the Lube Sizer, but when you get around to the master caster here is some info that I had bookmarked.

    Recent Discussion

    Robert's Hydraulic

    WiederladerTV's Electric

    I definitely see the benefits and tradeoffs of each of the electric, hydraulic and pneumatic systems. Just like the benefits and tradeoffs between foot operated and automatic.

    Just a tip to anyone considering this, figure out all the small oddball things that slow you down and fix those first. Once your motions become repettitive then think about automation. What I mean by this is Wymanwinn has the bullet feeder and the pneumatic lube resivour and heated base all running smooth, then he adds the actuator arm for the sizing.
    -Wildcat

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by WildcatBrass View Post
    I know you are still tinkering with the Lube Sizer, but when you get around to the master caster here is some info that I had bookmarked.

    Recent Discussion

    Robert's Hydraulic

    WiederladerTV's Electric

    I definitely see the benefits and tradeoffs of each of the electric, hydraulic and pneumatic systems. Just like the benefits and tradeoffs between foot operated and automatic.

    Just a tip to anyone considering this, figure out all the small oddball things that slow you down and fix those first. Once your motions become repettitive then think about automation. What I mean by this is Wymanwinn has the bullet feeder and the pneumatic lube resivour and heated base all running smooth, then he adds the actuator arm for the sizing.
    all the pneumatic parts for the master caster system should arrive today....

    i settled on pneumatics for a couple of simple reasons....i know how to work with that type of system, it is relatively inexpensive (as compared to the hydraulics) and really easy to automate with my brain....the master caster does not need a lot of force, just movement so i settled on 3/4 inch cylinder for the mold carrier and lead pour mechanism....i also will be using a hand control valve, 4-way, 3-position, spring return...this valve is designed for a double acting cylinder, but i will be using the two pressure ports to actuate two spring return cylinders on the MC....the pressure feeds will be flow controlled and the main feed will be regulated....just like the Star...

    i will keep all informed of my progress...

    wyman
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  19. #19
    Boolit Man MSGO-Hammer's Avatar
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    Got any part numbers handy for the cylinder and clevis?
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  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by MSGO-Hammer View Post
    Got any part numbers handy for the cylinder and clevis?

    parts list:

    6 x 12 x 12 "L" shaped stainless steel anchor plate (could be eliminated and the cylinder could be attached to the bench, but i wanted portability)

    Grainger #4EY75, IR Foot Pedal Valve 4way-2position (did not use the guard)

    from McMaster-Carr www.mcmaster.com/#

    1 - 8812k32 air regulator
    2 - 45045K48, flow control valves
    2 - 5779K157, tube fitting swivel ell, 3/8tube to 1/8mips
    20' x 5112K65, 3/8 flexible nylon tubing
    1 - 6498K872, stainless steel cylinder, pivot mount, double acting 1-1/16" bore x 9" stroke
    1 - 6498K647, rod end
    1 - 6498K72, pivot bracket
    1 - 6071K14, forged clevis rod end
    1 - 8924K33, 1045 carbon steel rod, 3/8" dia x 72"long (still have 60" left)
    2 - 6391K403, bronze sleeve bearing, 3/8" od x 5/16" id x 1/4" long (to bush the forged clevis end to fit 6498K647)

    the forged clevis rod end was attached to the 3/8" rod (threaded the rod to accept and used red locktite to secure) end with a slight bend to allow for the cylinder to hang vertically and parallel to the Star...the center of the end of the forged clevis end was set at 4.5" to the center of the actuator arm shaft on the Star...the end of the cylinder was set to full extension when the actuator arm was in the full up position...

    i will post a link to better pics and video when i get a chance...

    wyman
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