Mine arrived yesterday.
Thanks!
Doc
Mine arrived yesterday.
Thanks!
Doc
Got mine yesterday.
Thanks MiHec!
Thanks 45 2.1 where ever you are.
Cripes sakes, another banned member..........................
America will never be destroyed from the outside. If we falter and lose our freedoms, it will be because we destroyed ourselves. Abraham Lincoln
Got my mould today, it's been traveling since February 13th. The package was soaked; the postal service had wrapped it in clear plastic to keep it together. Not MiHec's fault. The mould looks fine (a little rust on the sprue plate), but here's my problem: I've never used a mould with these kinds of pins before, and the instructions, if there were any in the package, have disintegrated. Is there a post or thread here on the site (or some other place) that will explain how to operate the mould? Thanks for any help.
Scrub the thing down good. I use Dawn and a toothbrush, some use everything from Comet to Brake cleaner.... you can search on it. Then put the pins in on the left (the block with the sprue plate) so you can tap the pins out with right hand when mold open and inverted. Put guide pins into the HP pins all the way till just snug with the wrench and then back them out about 1/2 turn or so, until you can turn them just a little with your fingers. That will give the HP pins just a little wiggle room to get seated in their channel and the mold will close all the way. You don't want them screwed down snug, leave em loose enough to wiggle. If you can see light between the blocks, it's probably because you need to loosen and/or wiggle the guide pins in the HP pins a little bit. They will seat with a few casting and you can tighten them up later if you want. A lot of folks (including me) never tighten them all the way. 'Never had one back out on me. I only use the clips on the bottom pins. You can put them all in, but it just makes it more trouble to change the pins out when you want to go from solid to HP and such.... You can heat cycle it if you want, but I'd just touch the shaft of the guide pins with a very tiny bit of the supplied lube on a Qtip (I do this from the back of the mold with it closed), then lube the sprue plate and screw, handle and block pins just like anything else, heat it up and start casting like a madman. The pins will seat and the mold will develop a patina with time and casting. And you're off!!! Enjoy!!!
KE4GWE - - - - - - Colt 1860, it just feels right.
Thanks Beagle! Just printed out your instructions. I guess HB pins mount the same way as the HP pins. Off to the races.
I still have some of this molds....
If you want one, send me PM
Maybe this has been discussed, but does anyone have any 45-70 load data or advice for loading HB boolits? I know not to push a HB wadcutter in a 38 special to fast for fear of ripping of the skirt of lead; just curious if the same applies to these 45cal boolits if cast in WW alloy.
"I don't want men who miss." -Capt. Leander H. McNelly
Yep, the same thing applies to any hollow base projectile. If your loading your 45-70's with Black Powder like I do, you can't stuff enough powder in the case to blow the scurt on one of these boolits.
I still have some of this molds....
If you want one, send me PM
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |