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Thread: Freechex III question

  1. #1
    Beekeeper
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    Freechex III question

    I got one and need some info from anyone that has one.
    Bought an arbor press to use it!
    What kind of gidget,gadget ,jig , or jury rig do you use to hold the checkmaker in the press?

    It works great as is but being fumble fingered I figured maybe some one has the same problem I have (need 3 hands to make it work great).

    Any info good or bad accepted.


    bekeeper

  2. #2
    Moderator Emeritus JeffinNZ's Avatar
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    If you adjust the press arm the spring tension should hold it in place.
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  3. #3
    Boolit Master
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    Check out some of my posts- I make up a base that bolts to the arbor press and clamps to the checkmaker.

  4. #4
    Boolit Master Sonnypie's Avatar
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    While I myself don't use an Arbor press, I did make a brass bushing that nests in a 5/16" plate to hold the base.
    Some folks drill a 5/16" through hole, then make a 5/8" partial hole to capture the small end in the anvil disk of their press.
    That holds the die and allows the finished checks to drop through.
    Some use a simple cup to catch them. I use a drill vise and a small aluminum trough for the checks to slide down to a collection tray (AKA: The top of a plastic coffee container.)





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  5. #5
    Boolit Master

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    This is how I use my Freechex III on my drill press.

    Ken

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sonnypie View Post
    While I myself don't use an Arbor press, I did make a brass bushing that nests in a 5/16" plate to hold the base.
    Some folks drill a 5/16" through hole, then make a 5/8" partial hole to capture the small end in the anvil disk of their press.
    That holds the die and allows the finished checks to drop through.
    Some use a simple cup to catch them. I use a drill vise and a small aluminum trough for the checks to slide down to a collection tray (AKA: The top of a plastic coffee container.)





    Lots of ways to skin a cat.
    That's pretty doggone slick Sonnie!!

  7. #7
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    I thought I'd wake up this thread.
    I'd also like to see how everyone is using there FCIII tool.

    I scrounged an old (USA Made) arbor press from
    my scrap metal guy (he has a bunch of these, various sizes and mfg).

    I had to drill out the ram to accept the top die,
    I didn't have the exact size drill bit as you can see (bottom photo),
    I had to shim the die...but it's solid.

    When I had the Arbor press all apart,
    I was going to clean all the rust off of the ram.
    BUT, Since it was such an even coating of surface rust
    and didn't seem to hinder the press function,
    I just used a course denim rag and gun oil to rub off
    anything that would come off.
    I figured leaving the remaining rust would help protect
    it and also hold the grease/oil to lube it better.

    I drilled the bottom plates. They are 3/8" thick scrap from a jobsite that has a
    CNC lasor. I have a few more of these laying around, some larger ones too.











    Before the Arbor press was cleaned up


    Last edited by JonB_in_Glencoe; 11-28-2012 at 03:35 PM. Reason: added last two photos
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
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  8. #8
    Boolit Buddy
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    Quote Originally Posted by JonB_in_Glencoe View Post
    I thought I'd wake up this thread.


    I had to drill out the ram to accept the top die,
    I didn't have the exact size drill bit as you can see (bottom photo),
    I had to shim the die...but it's solid.

    ....

    I drilled the bottom plates. They are 3/8" thick scrap from a jobsite that has a
    CNC lasor. I have a few more of these laying around, some larger ones too.

    Does the ram normally have a foot locked in with a set screw? It looks original.
    Chinese have no such feature! Would an adapter foot be advantageous for the HF arbor presses.
    Would someone be able to modify the rams?

    Looks like some very high quality tooling and machining has taken place. Made in America too!
    Such ingenuity!

    tj

  9. #9
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    I believe the setscrew in the ram is original.

    I put a setscrew in the base plate, but I don't use it, as my drilling wasn't perfect, so when I tighten the lower die in the baseplate with the setscrew, it doesn't allign with the top die good enough. That lower die needs to float...at least with my setup.
    Jon
    Last edited by JonB_in_Glencoe; 11-28-2012 at 04:51 PM. Reason: typo
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
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  10. #10
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    Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	54800 This is the base that I use. Just have to bolt it down.

  11. #11
    Boolit Buddy Mike Hughes's Avatar
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    I looked through my collection of taiwan and china sockets, found one that would firmly hold the freechex and welded the socket to the arbor plate. To change calibers, simply rotate the arbor plate. I use a small dixie cup to catch the checks.
    Click image for larger version. 

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  12. #12
    Boolit Buddy yonky's Avatar
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    Here's my set up, I drilled a hole straight through the arbor plate,then drilled a hole half way through large enough to take the tool.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Sir Winston Churchill said "You can always count on Americans to do the right thing - after they've tried everything else."

  13. #13
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    Jon: You have photo's of my setup. I drilled mine very similar to Yonky's. I have two Freechex III's in separate holes in different quadrants of the bolster plate. I have set screws to lock the tools in place and another screw to lock the bolster plate securely. I haven't encountered any problems. I am surprised you drilled the ram rather than the bolster plate. Alignment hasn't been an issue with the way I drilled the bolster plate. If the ram doesn't hit exactly dead center with the FC tool it doesn't seem to cause any problems. I suppose if it was grossly mis-aligned it might, but I haven't experienced that. I stole Yonky's idea and improved on it at bit with the addition of the set screw and bolster plate lock down screw. Yonky's may be the same, but it wasn't apparent in the earlier photo's I copied the idea from. Your USA made arbor press looks nice now that you have it up and running. Apparently your scrapper didn't have any bolster plates so you made your own?

    Hey Yonky, are those my copper coils?
    Try being informed instead of just opinionated.
    Sometimes it is better to just smile and walk away.

    You can always tell a Handloader, by his unceasing quest for spent brass.

  14. #14
    Boolit Buddy yonky's Avatar
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    nice to see someone using a tool thats been made at home rather than "copied" by the chinese,nice to know that dake are still going strong making arbor presses in the us,even though i bet their double the price of the chinese version.i have a chinese one myself,why?because i could not find a uk one.
    Sir Winston Churchill said "You can always count on Americans to do the right thing - after they've tried everything else."

  15. #15
    Boolit Buddy
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    Mind describing the set screw for the bolster plate or a pic? Got the rest figured out but can't envision that part of it.
    Thanks
    Roger

    Quote Originally Posted by tchepone View Post
    Jon: You have photo's of my setup. I drilled mine very similar to Yonky's. I have two Freechex III's in separate holes in different quadrants of the bolster plate. I have set screws to lock the tools in place and another screw to lock the bolster plate securely. I haven't encountered any problems. I am surprised you drilled the ram rather than the bolster plate. Alignment hasn't been an issue with the way I drilled the bolster plate. If the ram doesn't hit exactly dead center with the FC tool it doesn't seem to cause any problems. I suppose if it was grossly mis-aligned it might, but I haven't experienced that. I stole Yonky's idea and improved on it at bit with the addition of the set screw and bolster plate lock down screw. Yonky's may be the same, but it wasn't apparent in the earlier photo's I copied the idea from. Your USA made arbor press looks nice now that you have it up and running. Apparently your scrapper didn't have any bolster plates so you made your own?

    Hey Yonky, are those my copper coils?
    Let's make AMERICA Great again!!!

  16. #16
    Boolit Buddy
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roger Ronas View Post
    Mind describing the set screw for the bolster plate or a pic? Got the rest figured out but can't envision that part of it.
    Thanks
    Roger
    The set screw, which holds the FC tool securely, is an ordinary ¼" x 20 thread Allen head plug screw. I drilled the bolster plate, from the edge, with appropriate size bit and tapped the hole.
    The set screw which holds the bolster plate is an ordinary ¼" x 28 thread cap screw. The bolster plate is drilled at an appropriate location and tapped. The hole extends into the base of the arbor press, which is also tapped.
    The Chinese cast iron is quite soft and the drilling and tapping was easily accomplished on my drill press. My choice of screw sizes happened to be what I had on hand but other sizes will work also.
    Last edited by tchepone; 11-30-2012 at 09:53 AM.
    Try being informed instead of just opinionated.
    Sometimes it is better to just smile and walk away.

    You can always tell a Handloader, by his unceasing quest for spent brass.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by tchepone View Post
    Jon:
    ...I am surprised you drilled the ram rather than the bolster plate.

    ...Apparently your scrapper didn't have any bolster plates so you made your own?
    ...The Ram was already drilled to 1/2" by the factory, and fairly deep into the ram (like 4"). So I didn't give it a second thought that I wouldn't drill it. Basically I just enlargened the hole to 5/8", then filled the deep part of the hole with WW alloy so the complete FCIII tool top is supported.

    ...I never got back out to see my buddy Bob, to see if he had any bolster plates...I had those 3/8" plates laying around and thought they'd be perfect. I didn't really think of it til just now while typing this. I think I do have a Steel (not cast Iron) bolster plate...a year ago, my neighbor bought a bunch of junk at the an auction sale, I walked over as he was unloading it. A bunch of his friends were around also. They were giving him a hard time about buying this junk. As he was sorting through it, I seen what I now know as a bolster plate, and said, that looks like a part to a pulley remover, don't scrap that out. he gave it to me. Now to figure out were I put it ?

    Quote Originally Posted by yonky View Post
    nice to see someone using a tool thats been made at home rather than "copied" by the chinese,nice to know that dake are still going strong making arbor presses in the us,even though i bet their double the price of the chinese version.i have a chinese one myself,why?because i could not find a uk one.
    yonky, I was about to say "I seriously doubt Dake is still around". But I desided to fact check myself.
    http://www.dakecorp.com/products-det...ingle Leverage
    They are still around and make the exact say Model 00 and it's a 1 ton. They don't list the price, I don't think I want to know (but I sent them an e-mail price quote request anyway).
    Jon

    edited: WOW, Dake responded very quickly...$295.00
    Last edited by JonB_in_Glencoe; 05-02-2018 at 03:25 PM. Reason: added price
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    “If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.”
    ― The Dalai Lama, Seattle Times, May 2001

  18. #18
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ID:	188369My Freechex III set up, Drilled through the plate and it works like a charm!!
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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check