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Thread: Oil Skin Coat Hazzard? Sounds Flammable to me

  1. #1
    Boolit Master Just Duke's Avatar
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    Oil Skin Coat Hazzard? Sounds Flammable to me

    In lieu of our move back to one of our other homes we dug out all out Drizza-Bone oil skin dusters (gud-die mite) like 8 or so and was wondering how to treat them? They seam dry. I know oily rags are combustible so we want to use the correct treatment on them.
    TIA,
    Duke
    Last edited by Just Duke; 04-05-2012 at 11:48 AM.

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    Check your ranch supply stores. I think they carry the proper sealant.
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    Boolit Master
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    I am not sure about "proper" sealants, but we always used neatsfoot oil on our drovers. Worked well back then.
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  4. #4
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    I have a hard time believing that Filson's Tin Cloth treatment wouldn't bring them right back to spec. It's very commonly available - but also probably very, very similar to neatsfoot oil.
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  5. #5
    Boolit Buddy Ron's Avatar
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    G'day Nuke - here are the contact details for Driza bone, an email might give you the answers you need.

    Driza-Bone Pty Ltd
    25-29 Wangaratta Street
    Richmond VIC 3121 Australia
    Phone: +61 (03) 9425 2222
    Fax: +61 (03) 9425 2298
    info@drizabone.com.au

    Regards,
    Ron.



    FESTINA LENTE

  6. #6
    Boolit Master
    redneckdan's Avatar
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    You'll pay a fortune for enough Filson cans to treat them. Use this recipe.

    http://www.boatdesign.net/forums/mat...loth-2669.html


    Works great.

    Oil skins are flammable. But no where near as bad as synthetics. In my experience welding sparks bounce off tin cloth unless caught in a fold. Sparks go right through synthetics.
    Some where between here and there.....

  7. #7
    Boolit Master Just Duke's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by redneckdan View Post
    You'll pay a fortune for enough Filson cans to treat them. Use this recipe.

    http://www.boatdesign.net/forums/mat...loth-2669.html


    Works great.

    Oil skins are flammable. But no where near as bad as synthetics. In my experience welding sparks bounce off tin cloth unless caught in a fold. Sparks go right through synthetics.
    Bingo! That's just what I need and thanks Dan.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by redneckdan View Post
    You'll pay a fortune for enough Filson cans to treat them. Use this recipe.
    Assuming that a person who owns several homes is concerned about cost, here is the dressing for the tin cloth clothing made by Barbour.

    Twelve bucks doesn't seem bad ...
    http://www.bestgear.com/barbour+thornproof+dressing

    CM
    Retired...TWICE. Now just raisin' cows and livin' on borrowed time.

  9. #9
    Boolit Master
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    That stuff seems more reasonable then the filson stuff. Jen tends to go through it with her work coat. I usually do her's twice a year. I do mine in the spring.
    Some where between here and there.....

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check