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Thread: Lee Load All

  1. #1
    Boolit Master
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    Lee Load All

    My new Lee Load All arrived today. I am still waiting for some other components to begin using it. Looking it over I can't help thinking charging the shell could be better accomplished with my powder dropper rather than the powder bushings and the lee loader. Maybe these are just miss guided thoughts of a metallic case reloader.

    This is my reasoning to the assumption that the powder measure I use in rifle/pistol reloading would be a better choice. More flexibility in the power charge. Ability to empty the hopper when finished or to switch powders. I already know it accurate.

    Does any one else charge shot shells with there rifle/pistol powder measure? Is there any reason not to charge with it?

  2. #2
    DEADBEAT UNIQUEDOT's Avatar
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    I have charged with a measure before, but it's much more convenient to just use the loadall. You can modify the bushings very easily with a dowel and sandpaper or knife and file to get the exact drop you need.

  3. #3
    Boolit Master

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    I charge with a measure when loading slugs, I keep my bushings set for my skeet/trap load of 7/8oz #9 and a light load of Clays.

  4. #4
    Boolit Master

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    shotgun powder is more forgiving. and the bushings work a little better as it is straight sides .

  5. #5
    Boolit Master SPRINGFIELDM141972's Avatar
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    My only complaint with the Lee Load All II is it is a pain to unload the powder and shot when you are done loading. I do not leave powder in my loader unless I'm coming back the same night to finish. It's just too easy to forget what powder is in the loader if it has been a week or two since I loaded, even though I do put a slip of paper with the charge weight and powder type in the powder hopper, I just don't trust anything when it comes to my personal well being. To make unloading a little easier, I made a pine half cover/stopper that fits down inside the shot hopper with a lip around the top. I insert the stopper into the shot side and hold it there while I pour the left over powder back into the powder jug.

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  6. #6
    Boolit Master
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    I attempted to load some shell last night with some lead shot I had on hand. I have ordered a buckshot mold and mainly wanted to load slugs and buckshot that I cast. The shot and powder bushing that came with the lee loader are way off. The 1 1/8 bushing actually 1 oz. The 1 ¼ actually a little less than 1 1/8. The powder bushings were about 5 grain reduced from expected as well. Man is it a pain to empty the shot & powder hopper to change these bushings.

    My crimps on the shells were poor and the components did not fill the hulls enough. I assume this was caused by the fact that loaders bushing were off and the load data that came with it was reduced (compared to data from Alliant/Unique). Should I disregard what is labeled on the bushings and measure what they drop and use one witch will match my scale and the data from Alliant?

    These were clear hulls and I noticed once loaded if you inverted the shells a few grans of powder would pass by the wad (claybuster version of WAA12). Was this caused by the fact that the shells were not filled tightly by the components (powder, wad, shot)?

  7. #7
    Boolit Master SPRINGFIELDM141972's Avatar
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    What size shot were you using? The bushings are supposed to be calibrated to #6 shot. Also, I found that if the hopper isn't half full, that the shot bushings tend to not throw consistantly. Having said that, I have in the past had to modify a bushing or two to get where I wanted to be. I have found that the easiest way to modify them is to trim off the top of the bushing until you get the right throw for the size shot you are using. I have found that approx. 1/8" off the top of a 1 oz bushing equates to 1/4 oz of shot. As always YMMV.

    Regards,
    Everett
    "There's a reason John Browning's middle name is Moses."

  8. #8
    DEADBEAT UNIQUEDOT's Avatar
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    All the bushings except the 1 1/8 oz is calibrated for number six shot, but the 1 1/8 is calibrated with eight shot. They were also calibrated with chilled shot so if you're using magnum shot it will weigh less. The bad crimps are either caused by poor fit as you suggested or you are not aligning the hull correctly under the crimp starter or you are using the wrong starter. Without seeing what they look like i can only guess.

    Those clear hulls are likely cheddite's or fiocchi's and the aa12 wad or any clone of that wad does not fit that hull so you will get powder migration with that hull/wad combo. You need federal wads or imported European wads for proper fit in those hulls. It's actually pretty simple and fast to empty the hoppers on the LLA, but you are correct that having to do it over and over again to get the correct charge weight is indeed a pain.

    Many times depending on what powder i use i find the need to go up two bushing sizes, but this is not always the case as i have had some powders that were almost dead on with what the charts stated.

  9. #9
    Boolit Master
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    The shot size is kind of a long story. I'll start by saying I have no intention of using it to hit anything reliably. I am mainly in venturing into shot shell reloading to load slugs and buckshot witch I intend to cast. The loader arrived before my molds and I was eager to load something so I remembered this old bag of shot I had. It was used for loading a muzzle loading shotgun. I think it is a hodgepodge of any lead shot someone gave my father. So I would not fault the shot bushing totally. Shot sizes range from probably #2 to #7.5. The 1 ¼ bushing does drop 1.10 to 1.15 of shot pretty regularly on my scale. I would consider this 1 1/8.

    I have since my last post did some more research and now understand I have straight wall hull and wads (WAA12) for tapered hulls. My research leads me to believe this is not ideal but I should be OK? Could any one suggest a tapered wad (FED I guess) that would be suitable for 9 pellets of 00 buck?

  10. #10
    DEADBEAT UNIQUEDOT's Avatar
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    Could any one suggest a tapered wad (FED I guess) that would be suitable for 9 pellets of 00 buck?
    If you use federal wads and fold crimps it will be either the 12s3 or 12s4 depending on the height of your basewad in those hulls and the type of powder you use and you will likely have to cut the petals off the wad when using 00 buck. BTW buffered buck will give better patterns, but you can't just add buffer to any load as it raises pressures drastically in most loads.

  11. #11
    Boolit Master

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    In my not so humble opinion the LLA is a heck of a step above a Lee Loader. I should know as I started with a Lee Loader before a lot of you were born. That said, it's still a bigger step below any MEC. When I used the LLA I mounted a powder measure right handy to the thing. You have to move the shell anyway after priming so dump powder then move to LLA to seat wad and drop shot, and yes I did modify shot bushings as needed. For shot drops I didn't use a lot or for buckshot, I used a dipper. YMMV Regards, Woody
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  12. #12
    DEADBEAT UNIQUEDOT's Avatar
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    That said, it's still a bigger step below any MEC.
    Some of the things i like about my mec is the collet sizer, the true primer feed, and the multi scale universal charge bar which gives me any charge of shot and powder i need, but i still prefer to use the loadall for new hulls as it just loads them so nicely and since sizing or priming isn't needed it's just as fast.

  13. #13
    Boolit Master SPRINGFIELDM141972's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jma1965 View Post
    When using a Lee Load All II and you need to change your powder or shot bushings, a empty 12 gauge shell can be inserted over the baffles by twisting it back and forward while gently pushing down. Then work your charge bar back and forward until the bushings are empty.

    I saw this in the tip of the day thread and thought it might be a help with your bushing adjustments. Pretty dang slick if you ask me.
    "There's a reason John Browning's middle name is Moses."

  14. #14
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    I own two Loadalls now, one for 12 and one for 20, but I hand dip my powder instead of using the powder chamber in the press. Only because I do not reload many of the same gauge at the same time, so, for me it's a bit useless to fill the chamber with powder and only do 25-30 shells at a time. I don't care for the idea of bolting the press to the bench and then have to remove it to pour remaining powder back in the little mouth on the powder jar. I just dip it out of the jar. Same process of hand dipping my shot as well. If you are going to leave the powder and shot in the chambers, and only use those two, then it's fine, but, try pouring remaining powder and shot back in their cans while not getting both everywhere.

  15. #15
    Boolit Grand Master In Remembrance Four Fingers of Death's Avatar
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    I saw a friend reloadig shotshells on some old press and he had a powder measure set up near the priming station. As he pulled the primed hull off the press, he dropped a load of powder into it, had a squiz at the powder level, placed it in the press, added a wad, etc, etc.

    He said he always loaded the same amount of shot for skeet, but occasionally varied the powder and charge. He had a micrometer adjuster on his powder thrower and said it was easier to leave the shot bottle on and empty the powder from the measure when he was finished or wanted to change.
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  16. #16
    Boolit Buddy
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    Quote Originally Posted by SPRINGFIELDM141972 View Post
    I saw this in the tip of the day thread and thought it might be a help with your bushing adjustments. Pretty dang slick if you ask me.
    nice
    good thinking

  17. #17
    Boolit Master

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    I have an old Pre 64 MEC 600 Jr that has an old shot bar that that is not adjustable and not throwing a usable weight of Unique for my use. So, I dump powder from my Redding Measure on the bench after priming. I do use the shot bar however.


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  18. #18
    Boolit Master


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    Quote Originally Posted by DODGEM250 View Post
    I own two Loadalls now, one for 12 and one for 20, but I hand dip my powder instead of using the powder chamber in the press. Only because I do not reload many of the same gauge at the same time, so, for me it's a bit useless to fill the chamber with powder and only do 25-30 shells at a time. I don't care for the idea of bolting the press to the bench and then have to remove it to pour remaining powder back in the little mouth on the powder jar. I just dip it out of the jar. Same process of hand dipping my shot as well. If you are going to leave the powder and shot in the chambers, and only use those two, then it's fine, but, try pouring remaining powder and shot back in their cans while not getting both everywhere.
    The only time I unbolted my LLA was to put it on a new bench. I pull the handles away from the hopper and carefully remove the whole hopper. I use the red hopper lid to cover the shot side and (having a powder container and an oil can funnel ready) pour the powder into the funnel. Then pour the shot into the shot container.
    I have two or three hulls I use that can use the same load so I never change powder, just wads. I tested the loads first of course and I only shoot trap so for me it works just fine.

  19. #19
    Boolit Master


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    As far as home made shot goes, I called the maker of the shotmaker years ago. I told him that the weight and pellet count did not match and he said that it loads by volumn and not weight and the pellet count is not going to be correct. So the 1 1/8 bushing will fill the shell and give a good crimp if the right wad is used.

  20. #20
    DEADBEAT UNIQUEDOT's Avatar
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    I pull the handles away from the hopper and carefully remove the whole hopper.
    This is what i do too and i can empty the shot and powder from my load-alls quicker than i can unscrew the shot and powder bottles from my mec. I don't know why folks don't read the instructions on how to empty the hoppers. That said though it's not nearly as convenient as it is to be able to store different powders and shot sizes ready to go in separate bottles for the mec.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check