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Thread: lead hammer

  1. #41
    Boolit Master

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    I've got a 6oz tomato paste can with both ends cut out; I want to use it for a hammer mold. If I cut it in half lengthwise, I don't think I'll be able to keep the halves lined up when I pour. So I think I'll just cut it along the seam and leave the other side uncut. That means I'll have to destroy the mold to get the hammer out

    I'll use a 60d nail for the handle (with a hole drilled thru to lock in in), seal the bottom with heavyduty aluminum foil and a hose clamp, and another hose clamp around the top. Then seal everything up with stove cement.

    Sound OK?
    Last edited by zxcvbob; 05-27-2012 at 10:14 PM.

  2. #42
    Cannon's & Mortars ClassicCannons's Avatar
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    lead hammer mold

    Hi are you still looking for a mold for the hammer if so i mad dome before its a 2 part mold with a hole for the handle

    If so PM me thanks Austin

    Check out some of my molds at thelink below also check out my cannons & mortars i made

    http://scaleartillery.com/Home.php

    http://scaleartillery.com/Carriage_parts.html
    Quote Originally Posted by Sasquatch-1 View Post
    Does anyone know where I can get an inexpensive lead hamme mold or how a NON-machinist might make one? I was thinking a gas pipe nipple with end caps and then cut the pipe length wise down the center might work.

    The hammer would only have to be 1 to 2 lbs.

  3. #43
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    I'll make ya one next week, free shippin,$18.00! This is vintage #3 charles field mold.


  4. #44
    Boolit Master Sasquatch-1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gunoil View Post
    I'll make ya one next week, free shippin,$18.00! This is vintage #3 charles field mold.
    I found that an old lead ingot works for what I want to use it for. I appreciate the offer tho.

  5. #45
    Boolit Master daddyseal's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sasquatch-1 View Post
    Does anyone know where I can get an inexpensive lead hamme mold or how a NON-machinist might make one? I was thinking a gas pipe nipple with end caps and then cut the pipe length wise down the center might work.

    The hammer would only have to be 1 to 2 lbs.
    I saw one on ebay a few weeks ago...you might keep an eye out there.

  6. #46
    Here's my attempt at a lead hammer.
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    I haven't tried it yet. But, I think it will work OK. (Hope the pictures work.)

  7. #47
    Boolit Master jabilli's Avatar
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    IIRC Maxwell Edison, Whom majored in medicine, had a Silver hammer.

    Apparently was a deadly thing.

    I believe you...but my Tommy gun don't.

  8. #48
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    Dang distrifle has got it together on his idea.


    I bought one lead hammer mold on ebay last year for 50 bucks. I made a few.

  9. #49
    Boolit Man bgoff_ak's Avatar
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    ok dumb question... what do you use a lead hammer for ? I have a few of differing weights in brass and Au, some plastic and a few dead blow ( sand ) hammers. lead seems really soft to me but whats every one whacking with these creations... on a side note this is why i really like this forum. there is one problem and many solutions. ( i would not have thought of the tomato / soda can, but it seems so simple now ) i use sand casting for Au when i cast with that I would assume it would work for lead also... i may have to try this weekend. if you need a really specific shape lost wax casting would work also... but i think sand would be close enough.

  10. #50
    Boolit Master

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    You use a lead hammer for striking objects that you don't want to damage. Sprue plates, harmonic balancers, tool surfaces, seating material in a machine vise and the like. They are also good dead blow hammers with little bounce. The soft lead distorts easily and the hammers wear. When they wear too much, you melt it and recast.

  11. #51
    Boolit Man bgoff_ak's Avatar
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    That's what I thought, I didn't know if there was a specific reason to use lead ( ie never sparks, wont mar a blue finish etc ) I've always used brass ,Au or rubber in its place. I suppose it's easier for me to turn down some stock so I never thought about it. Suppose it would be nice just to cast one when ever...

  12. #52
    Boolit Master Sasquatch-1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bgoff_ak View Post
    ok dumb question... what do you use a lead hammer for ? I have a few of differing weights in brass and Au, some plastic and a few dead blow ( sand ) hammers. lead seems really soft to me but whats every one whacking with these creations... on a side note this is why i really like this forum. there is one problem and many solutions. ( i would not have thought of the tomato / soda can, but it seems so simple now ) i use sand casting for Au when i cast with that I would assume it would work for lead also... i may have to try this weekend. if you need a really specific shape lost wax casting would work also... but i think sand would be close enough.
    Also some swaging dies have a pin sticking out of the top that needs to be struck to release the bullet from the die. A lead hammer works very well for this purpose.
    A vote for anyone other then the conservative candidates is a vote for the liberal candidates.

  13. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by bgoff_ak View Post
    ok dumb question... what do you use a lead hammer for ? I have a few of differing weights in brass and Au, some plastic and a few dead blow ( sand ) hammers. lead seems really soft to me but whats every one whacking with these creations... on a side note this is why i really like this forum. there is one problem and many solutions. ( i would not have thought of the tomato / soda can, but it seems so simple now ) i use sand casting for Au when i cast with that I would assume it would work for lead also... i may have to try this weekend. if you need a really specific shape lost wax casting would work also... but i think sand would be close enough.
    A lead hammer is the best tool for breaking loose a threaded back lathe chuck.

  14. #54
    I used a beer can and a length of copper pipe.
    Too much weight and too little stiffness/ resiliency in the handle.
    #2 will prolly be a cut down red bull or V8 can.
    CARPE DIEM!........Great custom gun shop: http://petersongunrepair.com

  15. #55
    Boolit Master
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    I used to work in a machine shop where lead hammers were banned. I think it had to do with the fact that some of our parts were for the nuclear industry. So every body had brass hammers. Still have a couple.

  16. #56
    Saw these (heavy ones)lead and lead with brass on one end being sold by Moss Motors?? for guys with wire wheels and spinner- knock off hubs,

    glad I switch from those knock offs, had a friend forget what spinner went where and lost a wheel and the way back to the shop. Like 150 feet from the front door, wheel goes right into lot, hits and MGB GT, flies over lands in dirt, he got off so cheap, just push the bumper in a little so that had to be replaced, the cars Owner never even knew.....

    Sorry lead hammers, depends how big, heavy, how much weight or surface area you want to destroy- work on, OLD school hot rod - sheet metal fab guys still use them to form- fab metal .

  17. #57
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    l bought one on ebay.

  18. #58
    Boolit Master

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    I have made my own dead blows for years. A piece of copper tubing a tee joint, pipe caps, fine lead shot and a hammer handle and jb weld. Cut a levgth of tuning long enough for pipe cap on each end when thru the tee. Ream or sand the stops out of the tee so pipe can slide thru. Flux tee and 1 pipe cap then solder together. Fill 9-%-95% full of #9 shot. solder second cap on. clean and polish. fit hammer handle into tee and glue with JB weld. let cure then pin into place. If you want leather faces buy a piece of the next bigger tubing and cut 1" longer than head. split legth wise with saw and relieve tor tee area. open end to fit snug over head and solder with 1/2" on each side. cut leather 5/8" - 3/4" wide. Roll leather into tight round (You can use a hose clamp to comprerss tighter ) apply JB weld to recess and insert wound leather in each end and clamp tight. let cure. Makes a nive light leather faced hammer for delicate work.

  19. #59
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by DistRifle View Post
    Here's my attempt at a lead hammer.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    I haven't tried it yet. But, I think it will work OK. (Hope the pictures work.)
    Love it! Gotta make myself one for mine.
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  20. #60
    Boolit Master Certaindeaf's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bgoff_ak View Post
    ok dumb question... what do you use a lead hammer for ? I have a few of differing weights in brass and Au, some plastic and a few dead blow ( sand ) hammers. lead seems really soft to me but whats every one whacking with these creations... on a side note this is why i really like this forum. there is one problem and many solutions. ( i would not have thought of the tomato / soda can, but it seems so simple now ) i use sand casting for Au when i cast with that I would assume it would work for lead also... i may have to try this weekend. if you need a really specific shape lost wax casting would work also... but i think sand would be close enough.
    In the old days (so I hear), gunsmiths would "regulate" fixed barrel revolvers with a lead babbit/or hammer.. nothing better. But yea, you hit something with lead, it stays hit and won't mar the surface.
    I think the small to medium size can idea is great... and I love me my soda/beer can ingots for just storing the stuff.
    Sent from my computer using my fingers.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check