Ben's Red- Help

[DeanWinchester]

old mixer

Wow, next time I'm at the Thrift Store, I bet one of those will be following me home.

Great idea !

Ben

Snag you a toaster oven too. They're great for this and for pan lubing. Holds the heat in and you have very good control over the temp.

[44man]

41, now that sounds like a lot better way. I don't mind the work. I think it is the heat.
I shot my mess up today and it did pretty good.
I don't have a hot plate that cycles and the Coleman stove sure can get hot fast.
I will go to Wall mart and get a cheap hot plate. The one I use for molds has been altered.
I appreciate your help.

[runfiverun]

I recommended doing it this way because it does get the grease silky smooth.
when we were dropping the wax amounts and stearating the #2 greases we had to take the grease up to over 450-f to allow the lith stearate to break down and do it's job.
anyway I found that breaking the grease down to a liquid and then adding the other ingredients removes the solvents from the jpw and from the stp.
this leaves behind the ingredients you want from them and removes the stuff that makes the lube change slightly over time.
by breaking them down you allow them to bind together better and adding in the wax at just above it's melt temp allows the entire batch of lube to gel together as it cools.
if you let the lube sit and chill out for a day or so you will see exactly how the lube will be from that point forward even if you melt it again.
it takes time for everything in the lube to find it's place and settle down.

take your time making the lube and watch it progress from grease to liquid and back into a gel as it cools down.
the gelling is what the lithium stearates do in the lube to make the base mineral oil into a grease [homogenous mixture]
adding in the b-wax when everything else is melted allows the wax to take in the free oils that the stearates cannot control.
you know that liquid stuff you see in a cup of wheel bearing grease or that liquid stuff you see on top of a stick of grease.

[41 mag fan]

I recommended doing it this way because it does get the grease silky smooth.
when we were dropping the wax amounts and stearating the #2 greases we had to take the grease up to over 450-f to allow the lith stearate to break down and do it's job.
anyway I found that breaking the grease down to a liquid and then adding the other ingredients removes the solvents from the jpw and from the stp.
this leaves behind the ingredients you want from them and removes the stuff that makes the lube change slightly over time.
by breaking them down you allow them to bind together better and adding in the wax at just above it's melt temp allows the entire batch of lube to gel together as it cools.
if you let the lube sit and chill out for a day or so you will see exactly how the lube will be from that point forward even if you melt it again.
it takes time for everything in the lube to find it's place and settle down.

take your time making the lube and watch it progress from grease to liquid and back into a gel as it cools down.
the gelling is what the lithium stearates do in the lube to make the base mineral oil into a grease [homogenous mixture]
adding in the b-wax when everything else is melted allows the wax to take in the free oils that the stearates cannot control.
you know that liquid stuff you see in a cup of wheel bearing grease or that liquid stuff you see on top of a stick of grease.

Run, I think I'm going to make a small batch up and try what you're saying to do, but I'll do it over a hotplate, where I can control my heat and it'll be spread out over the entire pot, not focused like a flame would be.

But now for the question...what would remelting multiple times do, if it's made the way I described? As in I have a pyrex cup I've been using to melt my lube, it's been melted multiple times, as i get about 1/3 or less in LAM, I refill.

[runfiverun]

nothing.
once it's all tied together you can't break it back apart.
the worst thing you'll do to it is overheat it and scorch the beeswax.

the ester alcohols in the b-wax and
polyolephin esters and polyalpheticolephins in the other stuff will bond together.
the polybutylene is the sticky stuff in both the grease and the stp.

you basically have poe and poa oils and alcohol ester molecules tied together with long strands of polybutene.
there is some other stuff going on with the LI stearates which is thickening things up.
but once it's bonded it's staying that way liquid or solid.

that is why it is recommended to follow the recipe and let it rest a day or so before you make additions or changes to a lube you haven't made before.

[41 mag fan]

Made a batch this evening....I'm going to start a new thread and see what others can chime in. Maybe it'll help those out who want to try it.