Originally Posted by
runfiverun
many of them look to go soft on the 100-f end and take the penetration too easily,or are alway's hard.
now that 139-b.
good flow visc at temp, semi soft, doesn't change a lot over the 23* temp swing.
and has a decent melt temp.
gotta remember that microwaxes don't hold lube like b-wax does it has smaller pores,so it has to flow and become a lube at a decent temp without falling apart at 110-f. That 139b jumped out at me too. I wish they had more info, the data sheets are very spotty and I copied all the descriptive notes they had, but I'll try to press for more detail on that one when I call. I also liked the fact that the 139b is still a 220 viscosity "oil" at the boiling point of water, that's much better than most microwaxes that turn water-thin at not much above their melt point.
a soap and a metal might be just about all that's needed, is something that adds lubricity on the low end without blowing the hot end needed??? Bob has mentioned a few times that the wax is all that's needed for lube, of course he doesn't shoot when it's 105F outside so he has no need for soaps. I'm starting to feel that all we need to zeroF for lube is two-stroke oil at about 2-3%.
if we disregarded the very first shot thing in favor of long strings then a poly oil would fill the bill nicely but i could live without it...
the metal/soap could take over for the first shot easily.
when temps are in the 20 area i have no issues with the moly lube and the first shot in group.
remember i only modified it for below these temps.
i'm sure it is because it leaves so little behind in the barell. I think THAT is the key, not the fancy oils. Back when we started this quest in earnest I felt that it was all about maintaining a consistent WET, even pre-conditioning the bore to quell the first-shot flyer, but Joe's lube and a dry Felix lube mix have convinced me otherwise. Two-stroke oil and ATF, if you don't use too much, doesn't affect the hot shooting or long strings in a bad way, but it does seem to counteract the hardening of the wax at lower temps (we've beaten that one to death, haven't we? LOL)
if we get the film down to a dry lube the first shot thing would clear itself up for the most part without affecting the hot end. That's exactly it, we do that and we have it licked. The right wax, soap it up, and a dab of high-VI synthetic oil to keep friction consistent in the cold and during boundary heat conditions, and moly or hBN to make it more surface-insensitive (smooth or rough bores) ought to be as close as we'll ever get to meeting our requirements.
so a flexable wax that flows under pressure and would take a soap without the soap drying it out,and a metal.
might be the whole answer. The soap does dry it out some depending on how much you use. If you use a whole lot, it obviously takes more oil, which makes the lube too slippery (like Longhorn did at first), and then you have to add that pesky intermediate like GOOD Vaseline to even it all out. But if we can find a wax that doesn't need so much plasticization (is that a word?) like these softer, stretchy, flexy waxes that still have high melt points, then we can put in a significant amount of sodium soap (30%) and get by with the amount of thin synthetic oil that helps but not have to add so much that it has to be countered with a fourth major ingredient.
we just need to find a flexable wax that doesn't flow too much but still seals the lands and grooves. Ja. Good thing we've been screwing with waxes for years so we have an idea what we're after.
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) this is what I've been working with for over a year, exactly like I was told to make it, and haven't got it right YET:
instead of relying on a "mystery refinery sample petrolatum of unknown constitution". I've been looking for an excuse to make a purchase at Blended Waxes, (the outfit in WI) but I can't make up my mind which formulation to purchase. If I purchase a slab each of 408 and 430, that'll set me back at least a C-note with shipping.
