"Extreme" boolit lube, The Quest...

[ctious]

I read a few pages on here. I am new to casting but I have been a auto mechanic for 15 years. I have a few things that I put together and I an in the process of testing. So far it can be froze and still lubricate. Had it out in 95 deg temp today and it is still solid and does not break down. It should not build up in the barrel. It also will aid in cleaning big time. I looked through the lube recipes on here and I did not see anyone using what I am. Was kinda surprised at this being my formula seems like common sense to me.

I would be willing to send out a small batch to someone to assist in testing being I am new to this.

Who would offer to test. I want it to be a very well known person on here that people trust. Just so we can get the straight answers.

Feel free to pm me.

[felix]

What's the composition? ... felix

[runfiverun]

just post the recipe up here,it may have been tried already.
more than just the published ones have been shot,and many others have been discussed.

[ctious]

Not going to post the make up just yet. I have a tester that i am sending some tomorrow. In a few days more info will be posted.

[ctious]

I can say this much. 2 of the main ingredients are opposite each other. More of less as it gets colder or warmer one of them will stay fluid. And the other will thicken to hold form. I really think I am on to something.

[felix]

Great! You are ready for marketing! You don't need us. ... felix

[ctious]

Great! You are ready for marketing! You don't need us. ... felix

Oh I don't think marketing lube is worth it. But once it gets tested and all is good I will share the make-up.

[btroj]

I will be seeing how it compares to a few other lubes I have on hand.
I just need to find time to get to the range more. Work and life seem to be fighting me.

[Elkins45]

PAO? Can someone save me the trouble of skimming all these pages to find out what this is?

[btroj]

I had to google it, it is a specific type of synthetic oil.
Some of us non-wrench monkeys have a hard time with all this. I am learning, but slowly.

[geargnasher]

Great! You are ready for marketing! You don't need us. ... felix

Gear

[geargnasher]

PAO? Can someone save me the trouble of skimming all these pages to find out what this is?

PolyAlphaOlefin. Essentially it's a scratch-made hydrocarbon molecule of exact and consistent size. The uniformity makes the oil it forms have a high viscosity index, or VI, which means it thickens less when cold and thins less when hot compared to natural petroleum fractions, even the hyrdo-cracked ones that are very highly refined. The problem we've been having with PAOs is that they don't mix well with other oils unless certain additives are use to allow odd-sized hydrocarbon molecules to weave themselves into the latticework of the PAO.

Gear

[Eutectic]

The problem we've been having with PAOs is that they don't mix well with other oils unless certain additives are use to allow odd-sized hydrocarbon molecules to weave themselves into the latticework of the PAO.

Gear

How about POE (polyolester) synthetic oil as a main ingredient or a blending agent?

Eutectic

[runfiverun]

pao's and poe's have been the two we have been working with lately.
bruce sent me a new u-con pao to work with.
i don't think it is on the market just yet in many products.
it is the slick-um in the [L--purple] lube i sent Don to work with.

for those who are just catching up.
my main work has been with adding stearates to ready made greases
[they have additives in them which are most helpful]
then blending with various waxes in a 60-40 ratio [grease to wax]
and some oil additives such as sulpher ester,neatsfoot oil,and the above pao bases being added also [above the stearated and bonded to the wax]
all in the effort to find the balance of viscosity and temp resistance.

i was going to do a list of ingredients that has been tried but i think it would be super long.

[Marlin Junky]

R5R,

I was going to test the E-Yellow tomorrow but the weather's not hot enough yet. Instead I'm going to try to get a little more velocity out of my baseline load by going to a slower powder. When I do get around to testing E-Yellow, it'll be with an alloy that's nothing special... BHN 12 to 16. I also want to make sure I've got the best boolits I can cast available for testing; i.e., round with no voids.

MJ

Yeah, I just checked the 10 day forecast... overnight lows in the high 50's to low 60's with highs in the low to mid 80's. Hell, even BAC performs well in this weather... sans the cold barrel start-up flyers.

[geargnasher]

That Ucon oil is actually a PAG oil, and it's slick as can be, really good stuff.

I did a bunch more spear-mintin' this morning, this time taking a foray into wax-free lubes again. Bruce had sent a bottle of "PAO-100" that I've been trying to get to work with the microwax, but it has some compatibility problems. I really like it, I don't know what that "100" designation is unless it's kinematic viscosity, because it's really thick like corn syrup. I made some interesting sodium and lithium greases with it, the sodium grease is thick enough to use by itself I think, and does well on the "wear tester".

We've been commenting on other threads how the waxes can be a problem with cold weather due to the film in the barrel freezing. For some reason, beeswax doesn't seem to be as much of a problem as other waxes, so that got me to thinking more about Lithi-Bee again. I took a small amount of some Ucon/lith stearate grease that Bruce had made and tried adding beeswax to stiffen it some, and also some HTO. I think it's working out so far even though the PAGs all tend to pickle the beeswax somewhat. The key is blend them at low temperatures and let it cool, then reheat and blend a few times like with the E-yellow. This stuff is smooth as silk and if it holds together might be worth a test.

Gear

[runfiverun]

i just used a good established load and then traded out lubes.
gave the bbl about 12-15 shots with the new lube to let it settle down, then shot a couple of groups with it the first time out.
then noted how the first shot went from then on.
the E-yellow is a good lube with the b-wax carrier.
but i have a fondness for the E-purple it seems to have the right stuff.
i still haven't had time to do anything with the L-purple yet, i haven't even thought about what rifle to try it in too much.
but i am leaning towards one of the 22 cals,as soon as i can sort out a scope set up on one of them.
i have a bunch of the E-yellow ready to go in the 308/30-06 and will be doing my best to wear out their bbl's at the nevada shoot this weekend.
i have something like 400 rds for the 308 and close to 300 in the 0-6
and about 250 for the 8 mauser with E-purple.
and about 250 for the 223 with the moly lube at 2700+ fps it's been hanging out at an inch with some 1/2" 5 shot groups lately if i can hold my head in the same spot with the high rings it has on it.
[i think that's almost all the brass i have in those cals except the 223]
plus a few hundred for the 44's with E-purple for the revolver speed shoot.

if i can keep accuracy through all that, i will call the lubes a pretty good success, as i should see temps in the 85+ range.

[geargnasher]

I figured you'd already be on your way there, Run. I keep forgetting you don't have the challenge of "making it out of Texas" to get anywhere like I do. It's eight hours at 75MPH to any other state from where I live. Only two hours to old Mexico, though.

If your lubes survive the Nevada shoot, I think you're well on your way. Something tells me they'll do great.

Gear

[runfiverun]

i should be able to make it there in about 8-1/2 hrs depending on how many times the girls gotta stop.
i could make it on one tank of gas in the tahoe depending on the hills and the wind. [and stops] and A.C.
we are gonna head over thursday morning and try to warn the prairie dogs about getting shot for a day or so [with some cast boolits] that's why so many 308's
i don't think they would take too kindly to me pulling out the 15 lb AR-30 and shooting groups with it at a fun shoot.

[OLPDon]

Been following this thread and I tend to read, and with my lack of knowledge I don't contribute much but gain a wealth of knowledge from the members in the know & willing to share.

Well today I was doing a little reorganizing my reloading stuff and came across a very old can of "Hercules Pipe Joint Compound" which was my Dads who passed on back in 1987.

Now my dad worked in a Can Co. (ACC) and he would take a empty cans he had laying around take them to work and scoop up some grease or something for home use. So when I had came across this 1 pint can of H.P.J.C. I didn't know if in fact it was as labeled. Look up (MSDS) online to see if it in fact was as lable or some unknown grease Dad commandeered. Yup indeed it is.

As I looked though the below links to find the contents of compound two of ingredients included is talc & Kaolin. It was mentioned in this thread about ground paper as a type of binder or something to that effect. So my question is can this be used in a lube additive or will the talc & Kaolin lap the barrel? If it would be ok to use can Bees Wax be used as carrier.
Many Thanks
Don


http://www.herchem.com/specs/pj_compd.pdf

http://www.herchem.com/CanadianENGMS...20Compound.pdf

http://www.georgiaencyclopedia.org/n....jsp?id=h-1178