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Thread: "Extreme" boolit lube, The Quest...

  1. #621
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    okay a new recipe:
    calling this one,,, L-purple
    1 oz ucon PAO
    3oz mag one wheel bearing grease
    2oz multi-purpose mag one #2 chassis grease
    116 gr lith stearate
    1-stick magma engineering red lube
    1-stick white label lube 2700 lube
    1 tbs mineral spirits

    thats it for now on the ingredients.
    i stirred all the oils and greases and the Li stearate all together then heated [stirring contimously]till the grease melted
    the red calls for a 500* drop point and the Li stearate had meted before that.
    when i pulled it off the heat and added the waxes it wanted to lump up so i just got them melted
    then returned to the heat and stirred some more.
    it looked like raspberry jam at this point.
    poured out on waxed paper after a few minutes of stirring and let cool till i could roll it into a loaf then put into a pete cup and blended with the blender and poured it back out to cool [which it is doing right now]
    i could see it thickening up as i blended.

    it is a titch softer than the E-purple which has a bit more wax in it.
    and would be a good candidiate as a changeable base for more [different types of] wax or even some of that wood flour.
    i'll let it sit and cool down the rest of the day and see how it comes out.

  2. #622
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    all those oz's above are by weight not liquid volume.

    and it has some good sticky to it, it adheres to metal right well.

  3. #623
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    Watch that for a while, see if it gets crumbly or if the bottom of the lube block is gooey. The UCON is a PAG and it flat wouldn't mix with melted microwax I used (similar to Magma) by itself. When I added lith 12 stearate to it first to make a grease, then added wax, the result was crumbly exactly like Feta cheese. Maybe the MS will bind it in, and you do have three greases there with different oil bases so it will probably be fine. One thing's for sure, that UCON is SLICK, like greased owl chit kinda slippery. The grease I made from it would make a fantastic slide grease, and Bruce sent an extra bottle of pre-made Ucon/lith 12 grease the other day that's identical to what I made with the ingredients, I'm planning to try some of it in one of my next lubes, but in very small quantity.

    Gear

  4. #624
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    the ucon is slick thats why i used that small amount.
    but 1 oz of weight was about half the bottle.
    it stirred right in the other two greases before i started cooking it which i took as a good sign.
    i also used less wax than i did in the E-purple just to see how it all sets up.
    and that initial jam look was a bit disconcerting i was wondering if the micro was trying to separate from the grease on me.
    if i do add anymore wax it will definately be b-wax.

  5. #625
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    it remained as made for the 12 hrs of it just sitting there.
    soft and ungodly sticky.
    so it got another 1.5 oz of the 2700
    and 1.5 oz of soft candle wax bringing it into line as far as how much wax is in the E-purple.
    they are quite similar now.

    forgot to figure in the alox that is in the 2700.
    even though it is a minimal amount it should be noted.

    it does appear that the cab-o-sil and the hto thickens up the grease also as it did take that extra bit of wax to bring the two to @ the same viscosity.
    next batch i'll have to try another percent of the stearate.

    M.J.
    if you want a couple of ounces of this. [couple of sticks worth]
    p.m. me and i'll get some out to ya.
    Lamar

  6. #626
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    ....Still waiting for my restock of test boolits to age... *Sigh* I should have known this would take more than a thousand rounds.

    Gear

  7. #627
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    dude, i just got 10k 30 cal gas checks,[i'll be ordering another 20k shortly] and just recieved 5k 8mm checks from darrell.
    i have been slowly chasing this for a long time,that's how the complex moly lube come about.
    you'll be going out shooting anyway's.
    i gotta get some more cast up too, i'm down to about 600 each of the e-yellow and purple ready to go, and those won't make it through the summer.

  8. #628
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    Tried the Na stearate based "soap" Lublin the 45-70 today. Shot groups about the same size as the MMl. No visible leading.
    It did leave a few lube goobers on my 100 yard target. That tells me it isn't coming off in flight very well, or evenly. I think that is odd as the stuff isn't really very sticky, much harder to hand lube with then the MMl. No goobers from the MMl at all, as was expected.

    Velocities for each was in the same ballpark, might be 10 fps difference.

    Load was 22.5 gr of 2400 with a 460420 bullet and a bit of Dacron. Velocities run right in the 1300 to 1325 range.

    40 of those off the bench starts to get to be a lot like work.

    Tis tells me the lube works OK, doesn't say much else. I need to push it harder, maybe in the 30-30. I may need to get the 300 Savage back from dad, it would be a better test platform.

  9. #629
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    your'e right in line with my load in my 45-70.
    in fact exactly the same except for the boolit number..
    can you soften up that soap lube?
    that would help it release from the boolit better.
    that or make it hard enough to stay on all the way to the dirt.

  10. #630
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    I want to add a touch of lanolin. Increasing the stickiness wouldn't be bad and it would soften it a touch. I ink a tablespoonful or so of lanolin would help. I can then see if it needs a bit More Vaseline.

    I am getting a better rifle ready to use for testing. My Dads old model 70 in 30-06. I know I handles cast well and should be a better gun for accuracy testing.

  11. #631
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    Lanolin does soften it, and make it a bit more cohesive. There's so much soap in there it doesn't really help make it more sticky, though. Try taking a small part of your batch and adding more castor oil.

    Gear

  12. #632
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    I can do that. I would have though more castor oil might make it too slick and prone to lube purging. This stuff right now leave a slight lube star but not a huge or wet one.

    I shot pretty fast today, when I was done the barrel was hot! I figured that would test the lube for a more extreme situation. Even with a really hot barrel the bullets went into the same group pretty well, lube star never really changed.

  13. #633
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    the L-purple has been sitting for a few days now with no change to it.
    it has the same consistency as the E-purle but with one slight difference.
    you can feel an external glide to the lube,no sweating of the ingredients or anything like that but you can feel where it will leave a light coating in the bbl.
    this might be the candidate for a minimal amount of lube in the g/c area.

    i am thinking it might be the ticket,just add lube to the bottom for summer and lube the larger groove for winter.
    it needs to be shot.

  14. #634
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    I'm tellin' ya, that UCON oil is some badarse slickum, it's like velvet between the fingers. Looks like it's staying in the mix ok. Bruce was right about oil engineering 101 being about how to make the new, fractionated and fabricated stuff mix.

    Gear

  15. #635
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    Talking

    R5R, what is the weight of the sticks of lube in post #622. I have looked but have not found a weight for them. I assume 1oz.

    1-stick magma engineering red lube
    1-stick white label lube 2700 lube


    I am following this thread with great interest.

  16. #636
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    solid sticks @ 2oz.
    notice i added a bit more wax to control the leftover oils and to help the lubes overall visc.

  17. #637
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    Yeah, went to try a few different lubes in the '06 today. Didn't go so well. Hard to shoot groups when ypur scope os lit of elevation and you are still many feet low at 100 yards. Looks like a shim os in order. Or maybe get some Burris signature rings with the offset inserts. Hose have helps in the past.

    At least I didn't get leading?

  18. #638
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    The Burris rings are the berries. All I use anymore. Scopes just work better when they're near the center of their adjustment.

    You using the modified version of Starmetal's soap lube?

    Gear

  19. #639
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    Test the soap lube and MMl right now. Looking to see how hot the MmL can handle and if the soap lube is as accurate.
    Right ow I need to get the rifle sighted in and find a good load. I have used the same rifle with the RCBs 165 SIL in the past, I just remember the exact charge of 2400. I think it was 18 gr but may have been as high as 20.

    Sad.y, my next weekday off I will be spending in Iowa City attending orientation at Univ of Iowa with my daughter. I spose that is more important than lube testing? Is it?

  20. #640
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    hmmm..
    orientation, i think i'd fill the tank with gas and give her 10 bucks for lunch

    i'll be takin the E-yellow to nevada to the cast boolit shoot on the 18th.
    and M.J. has a sample of the three lubes on the way to him.
    so we will see how the E- and L- lubes do in the heat soon nuff.
    the complex moly will be going too

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check