"Extreme" boolit lube, The Quest...

[btroj]

Dry isn't all bad. I knead mine with my fingers into a ball before I apply to bullets. It seems to help if "flow" better.
Trust me, that stuff can handle heat. If that lube melts you are somewhere you don't belong. Like an oven.

[grampa243]

That is pretty much it. My last batch was 2.5 ounces of K2, 1/4 ounce Vaseline, and a 4 ounce bar of Ivory.

That stuff is kinda scary to make, it needs a ton of heat.

with that kind of heat how are you putting it one the boolits?? i was thinking of make a batch for the 243 to see how it does at speed.

[btroj]

I apply it with my fingers for now. I put some in my Star and it did flow reasonably well with 90 pounds of pressure, no heat. I do think a bit of heat would help in the Star but isn't required.

You sure aren't going to melt it to pour into a sizer!

[rlb]

Well I made some more with Valvoline 2 stroke and some Husqvarna synthetic blend. 3tbsp oil to 1/2 of a 3.1oz bar. The Husqvarna came out much firmer and a little dryer, but seems to stay together while squishing it around and mashing it. The Husqvarna is also much firmer and the Castrol is the softest.

[geargnasher]

Most of the two-cycle oils contain up to 25% solvent as carriers. The solvent is aliphatic like mineral spirits and evaporates during the cooking cycle, leaving less oil volume than you started with. At over 400 degrees, the evaporation rates of the oils themselves increase to the point that some is lost, so work quickly once the water boils off and cool the mix as quickly as you can, like by pouring it into a foil-lined pan sitting in another pan of cool water. This explains why some oils make a dryer lube than others in the same initial proportions.

Gear

[rlb]

It has been pretty hard to get everything to go liquid with all of the wind we have had here. If this stuff works for my application then I might find a more sheltered place to cook. You do just put everything in together and start heating, right?

[btroj]

I heat the oil a bit first. I then add the soap in slivers a bit at a time. I like to give it time to begin giving off the water it contains. Adding slivers instead of a big chunk allows it to give off water faster and the whole process is faster.

I don't know about Gear but I find that higher heat is better than lower heat. I want it to get hot pretty fast. I start with the burner at 9, it only goes to 10 then high.

[geargnasher]

I use the side burner of my gas grill these days. The smoke is too much for my casting vent arrangement indoors. The gas burner has more BTUs and is easier to control than the open-coil hot plate. I simmer the soap and oil until it quits foaming to get rid of the water and solvent, then turn up the heat and try to get it melted as quickly as possible without scorching anything.

Gear

[rlb]

Yep, my side burner works great until you just get everything rolling and a gust of wind comes around the corner and poof, out goes the flame. I'll go about it a little different next time. We'll just have to try this stuff in the 44 and see what happens. It is still pretty soft after some freezer time so I am hoping that it will be good come hunting season.

Thanks again guys for the guidance and research.

[Grump]

Well, SL-61.1 from R5R in Idaho on his stunningly weigh-consistent .224 bullets in a 16-inch AR just taught me to NOT leave the spotting scope home. POI was enough left compared to the jacketed loads that I had 14 of the 1st 15 off the paper.

Bleh.

A puff of white/gray smoke bigger than a huge grapefruit and smaller than a volleyball was present on all lead bullet shots.

Accuracy was in the toilet, based on both the next two which were ON paper, and the impact pattern on my backstop. Should have taken pictures...the best one there (101 yards to the dirt wall) was about 3 inches, the rest 4-5 inches or maybe more.

All this from warm dirty barrel.

The first 5 fired were Hornady or Speer 52-gr HP match bullets badly "crimped" with the Lee Factory Crimp Die (forgot to disable that when I cranked those out about two years ago--had just finished a boatload of 55-gr FMJBTs). They shot 2.5 inches.

After all the lead gas-checks, my final 5 were Speer 52- or 53-gr hunting HPs, flat-base. No FCDie "crimp". They went into a nice group of 4 at 1.15 inch, one called flyer high put it to just under two inches, and POI consistent with my adjusting the red dot 5 or 6 (about half-minute) clicks right.

I've had good results in the past with this red dot sight, when done dim enough to let me center the dot inside a nice black bull.

Leading? Not a lick.

When packing up the misbehaving chronograph's screens, I found a gas check on the ground between the start and stop screens. Will have to ask if those need to be seated more out, with the gas check in the neck...??? Don't remember needing to do that when loading the Squibs in '06, but that was a long time ago, and using Hornady crimp-on checks anyway.

So I picked 3 out of the backstop and found none of those 3 had kept their gas checks.

Glad R5R sent enough for me to repeat this test...

100-110°F, no runniness from the lube, and when I WAS getting velocities, they were a bit smaller ES in velocity than most of my J-Word loads.

[btroj]

Rlb, his is my experience. I don't know for sure if it goes the same for Gear or not.

As the heat increases and the water in the soap evaporates the stuff gets thicker. As I stir it begins to form into a ball. I keep this ball moving and keep the heat on. I squish it against the sides of the pan and try to break it up a bit and keep it mixed well. Soon enough it will start to change color a bit and look "wetter". Is is when I really keep it moving and squished against the sides of the pan. It will start to show a bit of liquid on the pan bottom. At this point is begins to go liquid pretty quick. Keep stirring, keep looking for lumps that aren't melted. I get to a point where I decide it is close to all melted and give it a quick 30 count then remove from the heat.
Once off the heat I stir continuously until it begins to really gel up. I then pour into a foil pan to cool. I blow a fan over it to aid in cooling.

[runfiverun]

grump that white grey smoke tells me your exceeding the boolits limit.
not knowing your load details. and the mixing them in with jaxketed is a sure recipe for disaster.
start over a bit slower.
I run the AR's at about 24-2700 fps.
I seat the boolit so the lube groove is just covered by the case mouth.
you can't just go full out jaxketed velocity without a lot of other preps.
I run .0015 neck tension, cases 1.765 long, a slow for caliber powder, case thickness is .014, and I had to try 3 different primers to tune things in better.

[Grump]

Hey, R5R, I just sent you a PM

The chrono was reading better today, and 19.0 of WCC-844 ran 2309.9 fps, and 19.5 was 2352.5. 16-inch 1:8 twist. CCB shot was paired with another low at left at 7:00 or so, with the other three not more than 6.5 inches away in a 2-inch-ish group.

19.5 was warm dirty bore, you might say with five foulers shot first. Also about 6-1/2 inches.

Followed that with 5, 24.1 Varget and 77-gr match bullets, 1.8 inches, mostly vertical.

The DO cycle the AR. SKS-style accuracy is not what we seek.

[runfiverun]

sks accuracy that isn't.
if my sks gave 6" groups I would have gave it to someone long ago.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...may-help/page5
look at the links from post 81 through 90, there is what you need to know to get started shooting cast at high velocity.
you cannot use a golden parachute of any type to make it happen especially not some exotic alloy, or some off the wall lube.
you have to use a methodic, systematic approach.

I shoot a lot of SL-61 lube, but I don't use it in all of my most demanding applications just yet.
i'm still shooting the E-series of lubes [after I cleaned them up some] because I found a niche for them.
I also use a waay modified 45/45/10 lube.
however my main H/V lube is still my moly complex because I trust it, it has been tested and it does the job.
unfortunately the ingredients are not readily available to everybody [heck I can't get them anymore]
the pseudo recipe is in this thread somewhere.
it is a home based copy of the lyman moly lube just without the mess.

[pakmc]

anyone try Hydrous Lanolin??? for bullet lube.
Pat

[runfiverun]

hydrous means water gathering anhydrous is water repelling or phobic.
it is somewhat of a misnomer seeing as it contains about 2-3% water.
so does li stearated greases and many of the other ingredients we use.
we are able to remove much of the water from them in the cooking process.
however lanolin will burn before it will reach a high enough temperature to release it's water content.
lanolin is great at many things but low temperature is not one of them.
in a general temperature lube lanolin has some very desirable quality's where it will take pressure like a champ.
it just doesn't cut it at the wide temp swings we are looking at.

[bruce381]

""Most of the two-cycle oils contain up to 25% solvent as carriers""

gear is correct the mineral spirts/isoparrafin solvents are used to reduce vis of the heavier base oils and additives for easy cold mixing into gasoline.

[geargnasher]

Bruce, when I make another batch of TnT lube I want to send you some, PM or email your preferred addy....

Gear

[runfiverun]

I see you sent Jay some too.

[geargnasher]

I didn't send him any TnT, didn't know he was a finger-luber. I told him I'd send some in the future now that I know that.

Gear