My Muzzle Loader kit, pining the barrel

[oldracer]

I made a jig after a lot of measuring for drilling the pins for the thimbles and the three under lugs. Here are several picts and also one of the nose cap which is getting close to fitting. Some of these things are a tad nerve racking since I have to be VERY careful with measuring and such and it makes me marvel at the craftsmen of over 200 years ago and what they had to work with!

[405]

I made a jig after a lot of measuring for drilling the pins for the thimbles and the three under lugs. Here are several picts and also one of the nose cap which is getting close to fitting. Some of these things are a tad nerve racking since I have to be VERY careful with measuring and such and it makes me marvel at the craftsmen of over 200 years ago and what they had to work with!

Opps, it appears I have gone over my attachment limit??!! I'll have to see if I can get the admins to raise it.

One key is to use a good, new, sharp drill of the right diameter for your pin material. Once the hole locations are marked on whichever side of the stock you decide to enter from, I've found a center punch mark will help the drill point enter true and not wander on the curved surface. What has worked for me is to build a kind of cradle jig to hold the stock plumb (90 deg in all directions to the drill) and stable (no movement while the drill is cutting). A drill press works well for this job and using stands the same height as the press table really helps as the stock is much longer than the press table.. Once everything is stable and double checked for position the tabs are large enough you won't miss them. You just want the holes on each side of the stock to be in the same place . Don't know about your parts but once in a while those cast parts are harder than melted down Dodge Power Wagon springs. Who knows what scrap is used for some of those castings!

[oldracer]

Thanks to the admins I have some additional space so I have added the picts of this phase. Note I do have a jig that works for both thimbles and the underlugs.

[izzyjoe]

if it came from "China", it probally is Dodge truck springs!

[405]

Could be. But, you'd think most cast would be mild. Some of the stuff I've gotten lately, cast trigger guards and buttplates, is extremely hard.

Also, while the photo is dark, that drilling jig appears to be just the ticket. Wouldn't hesitate to use that with a hand drill or dull bit.

[44-40]

I made a jig after a lot of measuring for drilling the pins for the thimbles and the three under lugs. Here are several picts and also one of the nose cap which is getting close to fitting. Some of these things are a tad nerve racking since I have to be VERY careful with measuring and such and it makes me marvel at the craftsmen of over 200 years ago and what they had to work with!

I would really appreciate any information on making that drilling jig. My brother just received a Southern Mountain Flint kit from Track of the Wolf. He hasn't started on it yet but that drilling jig would really help.

Thank you!

[docone31]

I use a tire tread depth guage, and I mark the location on a square.
The hard part was doing the start hole. I had to turn the stock, start my hole with a ball burr, then right the stock and do the drilling.
I figuired, back 200 yrs, they had simple tools. So, how did they do that?
Measure, measure, measure, then drill. I have an hard time now, with my glasses. I drill at an angle.
Such is life. I have yet to use a drill press. My holes now, are off, but they are good in the lugs.
I tried jigs back then, but they got me in trouble. I did better without them.

[stronics]

I'm building a kit that was missing lots of parts including the pins. What diameter would they be in general?
I appreciate the help,
David

[docone31]

If you go to the hardware store and get either stainless, or steel pop rivets, the shank is the correct size. It should take a #48 drill. Finishing nails will also work.

[StrawHat]

A 6 penny finishing nail is a good pin. If you want a smaller diameter pin, try a 5 penny or 4 penny nail.

[oldracer]

In making the guide for the drilling I did a bit of measuring as following. I completed the barrel inlet and then put in the underlugs. I measured from the top of the barrel down to the center of each lug and they were all the same (paranoid I guess). I cut the piece of angle steel which was left over from an old race car project and measured down from the inside of one angle to get where the middle of the lug would be.

To get a position for the rod thimbles, I completed their inlet and then using the piece of angle and a small square I found the bottom of each thimble. They were no all the same, but close and I saved that measurement. I removed each thimble and then measured from the bottom of the thimble to the middle of their lug and subtracted that measurement from the first one. That gave me a reading from the top of the barrel down to the middle of the thimble lug.

While doing this I had the breach and lock all fastened in and the front of the barrel held in tightly. The location of where to drill was marked on the stock and I used a small Harbor Freight clamp to hold the steel angle to the top of the barrel so it would not move. I used several small levels on the barrel and guide to insure all was level while the whole mess was in the vice of my drill press and had my wife hold the end of the barrel so it was solid.

My kit came with stainless wire for the pins so I plan to cut off pieces and peen one end to make pins. Small nails could also be used but I would say to start off with small pins as they may have to get larger over time due to wear.

[405]

I'm building a kit that was missing lots of parts including the pins. What diameter would they be in general?
I appreciate the help,
David

Yep, finishing nails, brads, pop rivet centers, tempered wire all work very well. I use a tempered wire. The pins need to be somewhat stiff (tempered) so they can be driven through without bending too much (they are pins after all). The exact diameter is not so critical. The only problem with using nails is they may be a little short. It's good to start off with "plenty long" then trim to length later.
The wire stock I use is about .062" and the finish nails of that general diameter are about .065"-.067". Then just use a drill bit that is a matching diameter. After drilling the holes, I slightly round the entry tip of the pin so it won't catch on wood and will find it's way thru the hole in the tenon. Also good to chamfer the holes in the tenon so the pin will find it's way through. Some makers file a little "front to back" clearance into the tenon hole to allow for stock expansion/contraction.

[stronics]

Wow thank you all for the replys. That is what I needed to know.
I appreciate your time and effort,
David