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Thread: some tips that may help.

  1. #101
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    Here's a classic that needs a good referencing from time to time: http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...ighlight=44man

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  2. #102
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    I dunno how you dug that up.
    but I remember that pretty well.
    funny how ol joe-b was blown off in a couple of pages and other stuff was discussed.

    keep E'm coming.

  3. #103
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    Had you Guys ever tryed "Castor-R" its a 2-stroke Oil for Pre-mix (smells like Cox air-planes, cux thats Castor oil) I saw talk about castor and old dirt bikeing came to mind, another was Klotz synthetic it was a heat stable 2 stroke oil or was billed as it, might help with hot and cold temps,, (stings nose as bikes passed)
    Just trying to spark a thought about carryer oils

    Patrick
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  4. #104
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    Patrick.
    castor oil is the main lubricant in felix lube.
    it's also used in the SL-61 series of lubes.
    it needs to be polymerized to be real effective which is not a problem especially in a poe oil as we have been cooking the solvents off the poe's lately.
    ohhh a little more info, on those old 2-strokes the castor oil was added as a lubricant long ago [even used in old airplanes] but it also helped keep polybutene from building up and sticking to the bearings before it was burned off in the cylinders.
    it was a give and take between the two ingredients where one helped the other in different situations.

  5. #105
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    http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...-Loverin/page3
    some discussion about H Guy Loverign. [with some memories from family members]
    and hopefully some pictures.

  6. #106
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    discussion on lee sprue plates.
    they are slightly concave.....
    http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...v-Sprue-Plates

  7. #107
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    http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...rding-DD-214-s

    this is some help in getting past paper work like your discharge papers.
    it might be handy for the family or yourself.

  8. #108
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  9. #109
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    http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...bles-with-acid
    a little metallurgical help and a link.

  10. #110
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    Tim showing how to do a pound cast.
    http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...o-a-pound-cast

  11. #111
    Boolit Mold
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    Hello all. I am new to casting my own bullets and I have a question. If I am using a Lee mold .452 do I need to size them to 452 or 451 to use in a ruger 1911? I have heard some say that I should use 452 for jacketed and 451 for lead bullets. So if that is the case do I size a 452 to 451 or what? This may be a basic question to some but like I said i'm new and I don't wanna buy the wrong equipment. Thanks for your time.

  12. #112
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    you have it backwards.
    jaxketed will work and shoot well at a smaller size.
    you'll use 451 with the copper ones and 452 with the cast ones.
    that's the short story.

  13. #113
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    http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...gressive-press
    good discussion on progressive presses, and several links to other discussions.
    should be helpful if you are thinking about your first [or second] one.

  14. #114
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    http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...r-nose-too-big
    another good one by Ben.
    this one showing some tricks to nose sizing.

  15. #115
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    http://www.texas-mac.com/sitebuilder...r3-728x491.jpg

    Extended chart for Lee-type lead hardness testers.

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  16. #116
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    Just maybe and I am not sure so forgive me. I might shoot the smallest revolver groups ever. Not all the time but on the average. I really get out of sorts when I exceed 1" at 50 yards and prefer way smaller and have done under 1/4". I am the limit, not the gun.
    The reason is a lot of work and the understanding of the revolver and what it needs. When I go see a 2" pattern at 50 yards I get angry, what the hell did I do wrong? I cuss at myself all the time.
    You just do not know how much I get mad at myself with failures.
    Too much is made of what works and 90% of what is posted can be tossed. The right way is so easy and normal without all kinds of dies or alloys and lubes it will blow you away.
    Some spend thousands on equipment to solve what they do not understand. A Lyman "M" die or a Lee FCD makes me sad for you. Super hard crimps is also in there.
    Basics only. I might be the the guy that uses less then anyone else to shoot the best, a rotten, old SOB with fixed rules that do not need written down and if you watch me load you will see NOTHING different. Yet you do not know how I got there unless you read what I have said. Felix has made me better with a lube that works, what a great man. No other has done a thing for me because they were wrong and gun writers are the worst.
    Any person that repeats what someone else says is suspect. Be your own person.

  17. #117
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    A link for Savage 219 fans...

    http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...=1#post2640806

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  18. #118
    Boolit Master DrCaveman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 44man View Post
    Just maybe and I am not sure so forgive me. I might shoot the smallest revolver groups ever. Not all the time but on the average. I really get out of sorts when I exceed 1" at 50 yards and prefer way smaller and have done under 1/4". I am the limit, not the gun.
    The reason is a lot of work and the understanding of the revolver and what it needs. When I go see a 2" pattern at 50 yards I get angry, what the hell did I do wrong? I cuss at myself all the time.
    You just do not know how much I get mad at myself with failures.
    Too much is made of what works and 90% of what is posted can be tossed. The right way is so easy and normal without all kinds of dies or alloys and lubes it will blow you away.
    Some spend thousands on equipment to solve what they do not understand. A Lyman "M" die or a Lee FCD makes me sad for you. Super hard crimps is also in there.
    Basics only. I might be the the guy that uses less then anyone else to shoot the best, a rotten, old SOB with fixed rules that do not need written down and if you watch me load you will see NOTHING different. Yet you do not know how I got there unless you read what I have said. Felix has made me better with a lube that works, what a great man. No other has done a thing for me because they were wrong and gun writers are the worst.
    Any person that repeats what someone else says is suspect. Be your own person.
    44man

    You are obviously of very strong opinion, and preference toward Your ways. No problem there. I wonder if you have considered writing a book to consolidate and condense your experiences/findings/methods. Hell, i would "like" to be pissed off about a 2" group at 50 yds with revolver. Ive read a lot of your posts, but since your count is over 15k, i have read a fraction at best. Seriously, write a book, id pay you for it


    I actually just wanted to say that this thread is pretty awesome! The growth recently has been amazing, and while i havent read all the links, the ones i have deserved looking at.

    Sometimes, when something wise has been said, its better to quote the wise than to paraphrase and call it your own.

    Thanks runfiverun and geargnasher for contributions. Careful though, if it gets too big it may need to be further subcategorized to find anything. Maybe start a tips that may help part 2?

  19. #119
    Boolit Bub burrkiss's Avatar
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    For a cheap/free place to get sawdust is your local Lowes/Home Depot/Menards store. One that will cut wood will have sawdust. You might have to buy a 5 gallon bucket to not look totally crazy.

  20. #120
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    http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...-a-cast-bullet

    If you want torsional stress calculations, this is it.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check