reloadable .32 rimfire brass

[A pause for the COZ]

Sure is nice to take some thing that was basically a wall hanger and get it back into the game. I have a nice grove of oak trees picked out.
I was sitting in there Deer hunting and I counted 20 squirrels just in the area I was sitting.

[ndnchf]

You are right Chev, that goup of mine is nothing great. I was really just testing the rifle. The sun was setting and right in my eyes. I should get more 299153 in today or Monday.

I took this 32 rimfire family photo. Left to right: .32 extra short, .32 short, .32 long, .32 extra long, .32 extra extra long and .32 extra extra extra long.



OK, so the last two are fantasy. I got my new 25-20 single shot basic brass and had a little fun with it

[ndnchf]

I'm in the process of cutting down the 25-20 SS basic brass to 32XL length. I want to fire form it, so was thinking about what bullets to use. I don't really want to waste the 299153s. Digging through my stash I came across this box of Hornady 90 swaged SWCs. These measure .315" and are knurled with lube in the knurls. So I chucked one in a 5/16" lathe collet and turned a heel. Wala! 15 seconds later I had a cheap heel bullet. I realize that not everyone has a lathe, but for those who do, it's a cheap and easy way to make bullets.

[Chev. William]

Mind the Lead 'Dust' and "Swarf'.
Those Extended Length Range of Cartridges make a Nice Fantasy for me and my 'Favorites'.
I wonder about a Rebuilt and Rechambered "Judge" Revolver?
Chuckling,
Chev. William

[w30wcf]

ndnchf,
Those Hornady SWC's have worked really well in my '92 Marlin. I have a .302" sizing die and found that if I run the base in just far enough it tapers the heel so that they are a nice fit into fired brass.

Since you are using a single shot it would be interesting to trim a few cases so that the bullet, as purchased, could be placed in the chamber followed by the charged case and the action closed. The powder could be held in place with a little tuft of cotton.

Nice idea on the machined heal.

I think the group fired with the 31-090S shows promise, especially since you indicated that it was not fired under the best of conditions. In my experience, the No.2's gave better groups than the No.3's in my rifle.

w30wcf

[ndnchf]

I hope to get out to the range at the end of the week and see what 299153s will do at 50 yards. I also have some hunter supply bullets that I turned a heel on to try. I've got a centerfire block I can swap in to use with the new cases ala 32 Ballard Extra Long.

[ndnchf]

I've got an assortment of 32XL rounds loaded, both CF and RF and ready to go to the range tomorrow after work. On some I'm using an emptied 22 short case with 1.0 gr of 4F as a primer. It is very tedious measuring 1.0 gr of powder. So I took a few minutes and made an itty-bitty scoop that holds exactly 1.0 gr of Elephant 4F. It's a fired 22 case cut way down and then soldered to a little brass handle. It works like a charm.

[Chev. William]

Now you have the IDEA!

I have been using a Lee dipper and Balance scale to do 1.0 Grain Bullseye charges.
Chev. William

[ndnchf]

I finally got some of these little acorn blanks to use as primers. I popped one in the garage to see how strong it was. It sounded about the same as popping a standard primer. With that in mind I loaded some 32XL rounds with them. One group with 15gr of old E. 3F, the others with 2.5gr of Trail Boss. I've used 2.9gr of TB with an emptied .22 case and 1gr. Of 4F. But since these acorn blanks have a small charge of unknown smokeless, I thought it prudent to back down a little on the Trail Boss to start out. If these little acorns work out well, I'll be a happy camper. They are a little pricey, but are so much less work.

[Chev. William]

Ndnchf,
Any range "reports" on your use of "Acorn" Blanks as 'primers' for your .32XL Cartridges?

I Have acquired a Sample of .27 Cal Grade 6 PTL Blanks to disassemble for Charge Measurement but I have been Distracted by the Christmas Holidays, searching for a Replacement for my Dakota Truck, recovering from the Bruising I received in the Accident, Discussion swith my Insurance Claims Adjuster, and the Wet, cold, and Windy Whether here tha thas made Thoughts of Working out on My Patio 'Shop' 'Flee' quickly (even my two dogs do not like it outside at the moment and my Diet Cokes that are stored out there seem to be 'Slushies" when I opened one).

I hope All enjoyed a Very Merry Christmas Holiday this Year.

Best Regards,
Chev. William

[ndnchf]

Not yet. With work, the holidays and rain, I haven't made it out. But i'm hoping to go out on Monday. I'll post my results afterwards.

[ndnchf]

I got out to the range on Monday. The acorn blanks worked fine. However, accuracy was nothing great. My Old Eynsford 3F loads were all over the place. The load with 2.5gr of Trail Boss was the best at about 4" at 50 yards. All holes were nice and round, so no keyholing. I also loaded some centerfire rounds with the same Old E load. I swapped breech blocks and fired them. Results were only slightly better than the acorn Old E load.

I'm beginning to think that the 299153 may not have enough bearing surface for the higher velocity of the XL rounds. Original 32XL cartridges were loaded with a heavier bullet. I'm going to try backing down the loads to see if things improve. I may also take some 115gr 32-20 bullets and turn a heel on them to try out.

I'm very pleased with the acorn blanks and their ease of use. The journey continues.

[ndnchf]

Has anyone else been shooting their 32 rimfires? It's been pretty quiet around the fire lately.

Following up from my last post, I decided to make some heavier bullets for my 32XL. I took some Lyman 311008 bullets (typically used in 32-20) and turned a heel on them. This reduced the weight from 115 to 113gr. This leaves a driving band surface length of .200". This is the same as the Accurate 31-090S and .050" longer than the 299153 bullet. The heel is longer, as is the nose. I've loaded 10 rounds using 11.0gr of Reloader 7 and acorn blanks. Here is a photo showing a 299153, 31-090S and modified 311008, another with a loaded round comparison. I had previously shortened those 10 cases for the 31-090S bullets, so they worked perfectly with the modified 311008s.

[Chev. William]

Note: I have been Involved with .25 Replacements lately and then was involved in a Six Vehicle Freeway Accident on December 5th so have been 'distracted' with finding and purchasing a replacement for my Dodge Dakota that the Insurance Co. says is "Totaled". Finally found a 'suitable replacement' and started the purchase December 26th. Now negotiating with Insurance and Credit Union for the Money.

The Old Truck is a 2006 Dodge Dakota Quad Cab 4x4 4.7L SLT "Night Runner" with Trailer towing 'package' (a Class III/IV Receiver and Dealer installed 'factory wiring kit') with 17x8 inch Alloy Rims.

The New truck is also a 2006 Dodge Dakota Quad Cab 4x4 4.7L SLT but not a "Night Runner"
It also has Trailer tow Package installed and also has RV towing kit on it including 'Break away" brake actuation system. It is fitted with 16x8 inch Alloy Rims.
It also has a 'manual' driver Seat instead of a 'Power' driver Seat and a Opening Rear window.

I had added medium duty "D" ring tie down anchors to the Tail gate and corners of the Bed under a Folding Bed cover. The New Truck has a Soft, Roll up Bed cover and this week my Friend and I added light duty "D" rings to hook ratchet tie downs and a Spider net to.
The New truck also has a 'Sprayed in' Bed liner while the old truck had a plastic Insert bed liner. The New truck has 64,500 miles on it.

I hope to get the Insurance Settlement money Monday so I can put it toward the New Truck Purchase.

Best Regards,
Chev. William

[ndnchf]

Chev - glad you are making progress with your vehicle situation. I look forward to hearing about your shooting experiences soon.

I hope others will join the 32 rimfire discussion too.

[w30wcf]

chevwilliam,
Very sorry to learn of your accident. Hope that all works out regarding your replacement vehicle.

ndnchf,
Nice idea regarding the modified 311008's. It will be interesting to see how they shoot. I have not shot my Marlin '92 with the converted rimfire ammo for awhile now. I did take it to a NRA Cowboy Silhouette match a couple of years ago and after the match was over, tried it out on some of the steel animals.
If I did my part, the rifle did aok. I was using the standard center fire cases at the time.



I've been playing more with the .22 RF and CB / subsonic ammo, 44-40 and 30-30 stuff lately. I plan on getting back to the .32 this spring.

w30wcf

[Chev. William]

Update On My Truck "saga":
Took the Insurance Check to my Credit Union as they wanted Proof I could Pay the Difference between what They Would loan on the Used Replacement truck and what the Dealer Price is.
Then they Placed a four Business Day Hold on the Deposited Check to make sure it was 'honored' by the Issuing Bank (Bank of America).
Thursday I wen t back and Signed the Loan paperwork and was told to come back Friday for the Money in the Form of Cashier's Checks.
Friday AM went to CU, Received Two Cashier's Checks (made out to the Dealer) for: 1.) the amount of the Loan; and 2.) the remainder of the Purchase Price.
Drove to Dealer and handed over the Checks, received the Assurances of the Dealer that the New Tire guarantees (for the Tires on the Truck) would be Registered to me/the Truck.
Told The Extended coverage (three Years of All parts guaranteed Coverage or 36000 miles which ever Comes first) would arrive in about 30 days, Total on the Truck is about $18,500.00 and I still need to do the License Transfer After I get the Registration in the mails.
I now have possession and part ownership of the Replacement 2006 Dodge Dakota Quad Cab 4x4 4.7L SLT Truck fitted with a Frame mount Class 3/4 Hitch receiver and Trailer Wiring, Provisions for RV towing of the Truck including Break away Braking and & Towing/Towed Vehicle Wiring and a Roll up Bed Cover over a Sprayed On Liner in the Bed.
The Truck is in "Bright Silver" while the previous truck was "Black Pearl Metallic" along with having the "Night Runner" package including a Power Adjustable driver Seat with adjustable Lumbar Support built in to the Seat Back. I have Retained The "salvaged" vehicle also.

Now Comes the "search" for Items to 'bring the Silver Truck up to the Level of the Black Truck before the Accident:
- A Driver Side Power Adjustable Seat.
- Body Side Molding (about 2" wide soft Colored Moldings to protect the Doors (and rear body sides) from Shopping Cart Scrapes and Dings.
- A bug Deflector for the Front Hood.
- Repair of a 'dinged front 'Bumper' (plastic cover, inner Support and possibly the Steel Backer).
- Add Soft 'bumper edging' to rear Bumper, again to limit Scrapes and Dings.
- Miscellaneous Decals such as American Flags for the Rear side Windows, IBEW Local Decals, NRA Life Member Decals, CPO Gold Crow Decal, Etc.
- Install a 2.5 Watt Solar Panel against the Windshield to "keep alive' the Battery.
- A Roll Up Solar Shield for inside the Vehicle use when Parked outside.

Generally, to reprise Things that I found very useful on the Black Truck in my past Driving.
Friday Night I already have used the Silver Truck to help a Friend in 'Need' on his Job.

Stopped by my Gunsmith's and he is back after the Holidays but had no progress on my Projects to report.
Still Waiting for The PT&G .25 Stevens Long Rifle Chamber Reamer.
It has been too Wet/Cool/Windy out to try my New sizing and Seating dies (my reloading 'shop' is my Back Patio).

Best Regards to all For this New Year, The Coming Primaries and National Elections give many "HOPE" for "CHANGE" again; this time correcting back to Traditional American Values and Culture.
Chev. William

[ndnchf]

W30wcf - I haven't been to the range yet to try the modified 311008, just been too nasty out. It's a great bullet for my 32-20s, so I'm hopeful it will work well here.

[Chev. William]

Wet Cool and Windy here all last week, Too Cool/windy to try out my new Sizing die in forming 6.35x28.6mm cases nor my .250" bullet sizing die. My 'Reloading Shop' is my Back Patio with a Canvas 'tent' cover over it, This Keeps Spilled Powder out of the Home And adds 'fertilizer' to the Late wife's flowers.

A separate project is to get the "salvage" Black Dodge Dakota repaired enough to roll under its own power so it can be moved less Expensively for further repairs. So far I know the Steering rack and Pinion Gearbox will need replacing along with the Tie rods, Left lower 'A' Arm, lower Ball Joint, Sway Bar attachments on the Left side. it appears the Spindle, Hub, Brake disk, Caliper, Hoses, Anti Skid sensor and Wiring are OK. Obviously since the 'Rack' is part of the Power Steering; that will need to be looked into as well.
Collision Damage to the Left Tie Rod bent it in the Middle and Broke the Steering Ger housing separating the Rack portion form the Pinion Portion and from the Rack portion mounts to the Frame.
The Lower Ball Joint was Ripped apart and the Lower 'A' arm bent. Curiously, the Alloy Aluminum Wheel survived intact with NO visible injury although the Tire took a Sizable Hit, damaging the Side wall yet leaving it fully inflated.
Body Damage includes both front Fenders, Both Fender inner liners, the Right Headlight assembly, Bumper Cover, Bumper Liner, Bumper Backer bar, right corner of Plastic Grill and its inner support tubing frame, the Left Front Door, the Left Rear door, a 'Dent in the Left Rear fender behind the Wheel Well, Both outside mirrors. the 'B" Pillar seems to be straight except the Front door Striker loop is pulled out of position yet the Rear door is still fully operable. All glass is still intact. All Door Wiring seems to be intact and operable, The Drivers Door Exterior handle and lock are Smashed flat. The Interior panel on the Drivers door seems to be intact but one corner is separated from the Door structure due bending of the Structure (the upper door frame and Glass were bent out about a foot from their nominal position against the Roof Gaskets). The rear door seems to only have outer skin damage, possibly some bending of the Front outer lip where the Skin is attached. The Hood, and its latching Structure seems to have survived intact The interior support molding for the plastic fluid reservoirs is damaged, the Windshield Washer Fluid reservoir is split and spilled its content, both the Radiator overflow catch tank and the Power Steering fluid reservoir are intact and holding their Content.
So far my Friend says he has estimated it will cost him about $7000 in Parts to get the Truck back up to running on its four wheels so he is still interested in buying the The Truck to restore to the Road and I am planning to sell it to him for what the Insurance Company 'deducted ' from the 'Actual Cash Value' they determined. This way I will be 'made whole' for my Loss and have some money to upgrade my Replacement Truck to approach the 'Comfort and Convenience' of the old one.

I have pulled out all my personal belongings from the Interior of the Old Truck and either moved them into the house or to the Replacement Truck. My Old Truck is fitted with a "BAK-flip three section folding Cover over a Plastic insert Bed liner; to which I added some 'Steel Threaded Rivnut' anchored 'D' ring tie-down attach points where the hold down plastic fasteners for the Liner were placed.

Best Regards,
Chev. William

[NorthCoastBigBore]

Thought I might bump this with a bit of an update on an alternative (though inferior) approach I stumbled across from a Canadian forum; and also my noticing some drawn brass tubing in our local hobby shop that looked suspiciously like a viable option. I picked it up and as luck might have it, the O.D. mic'd out at the same as a .32 SC. I.D seems right as well, with a nice snug fit for roundballs or a heeled boolit.

Before getting into it, I will add that I have an "Oddball Revolver" in .32 RF with particularly tight headspace. To make it work with Ramsets and still rotate, I found I had to thin the rim of my (scarce) .32 Short Colt brass to the point that often, the cases were not re-useable, which was very annoying given the expense and rarity of these cases (I'm up in Canuckville and ironically it is the US ITAR restrictions, not our laws, that make importing brass other than shotshells, a bit of a process).

So I thought I'd give this a try; I cut some brass tubes to length and wrapped one wrap of tape around the Ramset (used as a primer) to ensure a good seal and tried it out, and found it worked great. The cylinder turns without drag and the Ramsets fired immediately on every try.

As I say, MY revolver is quite tight so no flange was what IT needed; BUT my Favorite in .32 RF (which has a tight action, no lever droop and in excellent condition) is another matter and really needs a rim. Another fellow is going to attempt to form flanges on these so they can be used with "normal" actions - and without sacrificing other brass.

Now, if I could more easily access the case examples you folks have utilized to date, that would be my preference; especially because you can "chamber" the brass for whatever .22 or .27 you might want, with good support. However I think for this revolver anyway this is my preferred approach.







As always, I enjoy reading your updates and I appreciate your skills and experience in all this. Keep it up!