reloadable .32 rimfire brass

[w30wcf]

ndnchf,
I see no reason that it would not work (at least to keep the gas behind the bullet) with any of those powders except Trail Boss. (For those watching this topic...DO NOT USE FILLERS WITH TRAIL BOSS!)

I'll send you a small qty to test. Of the powders listed I guess I would suggest I would try either b.p.(only if it is Swiss or Olde Eynsford) or Pyrodex. I'm thinking 12 grs b.p or 10 grs. Pyrodex ...... both slightly compressed. Fill the rest of the case with PSB and then seat the healed bullet, compressing the PSB the length of the heel.

w30wcf

[ndnchf]

w30wcf - thank you very much sir. I've got both Old E. and Swiss, but only in 2F. But that may be a good thing to keep pressures lower and help reduce blow by. I think my 28" barrel can burn it thoroughly.
Thanks again.

[Chev. William]

My Friend let me use his Lathe for most of the day Today so I cut the Tenon on the Winchester 700 (Correction: it is marked Model 70, not Model 700, I got to looking closely with a magnifier instead of relying on waht it said in the Auction description) Barrel to fit my Stevens 44 Receiver. The front 'locating' diameter I cut is .813" to be a sliding fit in my Receiver socket which measures between .813" and .814". This differs from Frank de Haas's book which indicates is should be .800". The Rear 'locating' diameter is .752" to slide into my Receiver which measured .753" compared to Frank's book indicated .745". I single pointed the 20 TPI threaded section and cut thread relief on both ends so I could screw the Receiver on while the barrel was still chucked in the lathe. I will wait to cut the locking socket and the extractor slot until I have the Receiver and Breech Block properly 'mated'.

I am still thinking of adding a Tube 'shroud' to the barrel on which to mount a Foreend for grip so the Barrel would be essentially full length floating. I am adding photos of the Receiver, a Stevens Barrel and my Winchester reworked barrel to illustrate.

Both barrels with the Receiver below.

Close up of the two barrel tenons.

The Stainless Steel Winchester barrel screwed into the Stevens 44 Receiver.

I think that a 'collar' will be needed between the barrel Tenon Front Face and the Receiver Front face as the barrel currently screws into the champfer at the front of the socket.
This would also give me something to 'hang' the 'shroud' on.

'Still thinking through the next steps.
Best Regards,
Chev. William

PS: I now have a Winchester 700 (Correction: Model 70, not Model 700) Barrel Tenon with the .300 Win. Mag. chamber in it left over. Does anyone want it? or have suggestions fo rpossible uses?
Chev. William

[Chev. William]

Sunday afternoon I took the Barrel back to my Friend's Shop and single point threaded it for an Aluminum Tube 'shroud', unfortunately After removing the Barrel for inspection I found that I had damaged the Start Thread so now I need to either 'straighten' the damaged thread start or trim the damage off.

Does anyone have suggestions on how to correct my problem?
The Damaged start is about a quarter of the circumference of the threaded section and is 'pushed' back so the thread peak is about half the nominal distance from the following thread. The Barrel is an unknown Stainless Steel alloy (whatever Winchester used). I do not feel it would be possible to remount the barrel in the Lathe and get the thread 'clocked' correctly to try re-cutting this portion without the probability of doing further damage, so I will need to do this either by hand somehow.

Best Regards,
Chev. William

[kootne]

Sunday afternoon I took the Barrel back to my Friend's Shop and single point threaded it for an Aluminum Tube 'shroud', unfortunately After removing the Barrel for inspection I found that I had damaged the Start Thread so now I need to either 'straighten' the damaged thread start or trim the damage off.

Does anyone have suggestions on how to correct my problem?
The Damaged start is about a quarter of the circumference of the threaded section and is 'pushed' back so the thread peak is about half the nominal distance from the following thread. The Barrel is an unknown Stainless Steel alloy (whatever Winchester used). I do not feel it would be possible to remount the barrel in the Lathe and get the thread 'clocked' correctly to try re-cutting this portion without the probability of doing further damage, so I will need to do this either by hand somehow.

Best Regards,
Chev. William

Chev. William, at least 3 viable choice;
1. you can file away the thread down to the minor diameter back past the damage if it's only a 1/4 turn.
2. Get a thread file at an Auto parts house. They will have 8 different pitches per file, there are 2 or 3 different combinations, make sure you get the right one.
3. Everybody that threads in alathe really needs to learn how to pick up a thread so it can be repaired. Quick lesson;

Set your compound @ 29-1/2 or 30 degrees so the cutter will follw one flank of the thread as you advance the compound screw. Pretty std. practice for cutting threads.

Square your threading tool to the work as normal for theading and set it just a few thou over the diameter and just to the left of the start of the threads.

Now, put the 1/2 nut in on whatever mark you use and roll the lathe over by hand letting the cutter track along the thread for a ways to remove all the potential backlash.

It probably won't be oriented to the root of the thread but if you stop turning then you can manipulate you cross feed and compound handles to get the cutter to line up exactly with the root of the thread. Easier to see this if you put a sheet of white paper on the lathe ways to provide contrast and use magnification. If you don't have a magnifying glass of some type now is a really good time to get on.

When the cutter looks good with the thread, zero the cross feed and compound dials for reference.

Back out the cutter, release the 1/2 nut, return cutter to starting position.

Run cutter in to almost "zero" on the dial, roll till 1/2 nut mark is right and engage it,I would suggest until you are comfortable with this whole process to not chase the threads under power, just roll the head stock by hand, it gives you a lot more control. Put the spindle drive in neutral for safety, the spindle will still drive the lead screw and turns easier by hand.

Now just take very light infeeds, watch the cutter and thread, stop if it don't look right. You may have to make slight corrections once it starts to cut.

kootne

[Chev. William]

Kootne,
Thank you for your suggestions, I used option #1 today and most of the damaged thread is now removed, still al ittle to go but will wait until later to complete the work, trash trucks coming by emptying Recyclables, Green waste, and Trash in that sequence so need to get my 'barrels' in.

I will keep the other notes in mind to try when I get back on my Friend's Lathe.

Best Regards,
Chev. William

[gwpercle]

Bob Hayley can furnish reloadable rimfire cases, bullets and loaded ammunition.
Contact him at Hayley's Custom Ammunition, P.O. Box 889, 211 North River, Seymor, Texas 76380. Tel: 940-888-3352
It's a good way to get an obsolete rimfire shooting again.

[uscra112]

Awww, where's the fun in that? Like buying your trout off a fishmonger's slab instead of going out with $2000 worth of equipment, enduring rain and/or clouds of mosquitoes to catch one yourself.....

[Chev. William]

But you miss the 'Bruised Palm' from reforming cases.

I finished reforming 35 R-P .32 S&W Long cases to .32 Long Colt diameters today so I now have these plus an earlier set of 55 waiting for Trimming of the Brass "roll" of displaced Brass from in front of the Rim.

I am thinking of also reforming some .22 Hornet cases to .25 Stevens/.250ALRx diameters which will further add to my palm Bruises but are needed for planned testing.

Other than that, this has been a really outstanding Easter Day, with Sunshine, a mild breeze, and moderate temperatures, with my two dogs relaxed at my feet this afternoon.

Best Regards,
Chev. William

[Chev. William]

Received my Direct deposit Social Security money today and already have spent $275.00 on part of the Month's food supplies and another roughly $600.00 on Utilities. The best part of the day was paying for, and filling out transfer paperwork for, two Stevens Favorite Receivers:

One is a 1894 series with a serial number "80573o" that has the spring retaining screws and what looks like a milled 'notch' in the internal cast shelf near the rear of the Barrel Socket on the left side. it begins flush with the side wall inside and extends around 3/32 toward the Center Line of the receiver. depth is hard to tell but appears to be about 1/16" and is the height of the shelf thickness in that area. So far I did not see any other markings on it, general Brown 'Patina" on it.

The other receiver is a 1915 series and carries the serial number "P-549", the "Model 1915" stamping, and the typical "Trademark Favorite, etc." on top of the barrel Socket. There is also a "Circle I" stamp on the Left Diagonal surface near the front. So far I have found no other marks on it. This one also came with the spring retainer screws and also the Trigger spring still in it. the exterior has a grey metal type of color and some patches of what may be Color Case remaining but has numerous scratches on the sides running roughly parallel to the main receiver axis on both sides.

Hole dimensions and thread condition of both receiver will have to wait until the mandatory California Waiting period times out, around May 6th.

The other good news is that the '44' receiver and trigger were saved by my Gunsmith after I had tried to get the Trigger pivot screw out with bad luck.

Also another long term project is slightly closer to being completed. He had the .45 Win Mag Barrel Blank threaded into my NOS Winchester M1 Carbine Receiver (not torqued in yet) so things are looking up on that one after two years of waiting.
Still to be done on the barrel blank: Mill cuts to side and bottom to fit the operating slide AFTER blank is first torqued in , witness marked, and then removed for the further machining steps, it also will need to be contoured fo ra future Gas block/cylinder but that may wait until it is 'proof tested' as a single shot action first. The gunsmith has blueprints for the intended barrel design, a 26" long .45 Win. Mag. on a carbine action, for which I have an old Fajen long nose 'Manlincher' style stock set aside. No, it won't be a floating barrel, it will be clamped like a Carbine was, just about 6 inches longer so it will be a rifle length firearm.

I also picked up a new 50 round box of .38 Long Colt BP Factory loads for my .38 D. A. Colt 'lightening' Sheriff/Storekeeper Revolver. Handed down from my Uncle Ludwig, and is about 85% Nickel finished, with the original Colt Grips (they have the serial number scribed on the inside faces).

All in all a very good Wednesday for me.
Best Regards,
Chev. William

[w30wcf]

Thought I would add a photo of a fired case from my Marlin 1892.




Duo-Fast No. 3 before and after fired



w30wcf

[Chev. William]

W30wcf,
Very good hit by the Firing pin and looks like you turned the full rim for clearance, is that correct?
Best Regards,
Chev. William

[w30wcf]

Chev. William,
Yes. I faced off the rim face about .010".

w30wcf

[Chev. William]

This Sunday I finished expanding 200 Hornet case necks out to .250" Internal Diameter. I used my 1/2" capacity Bench Drill Press, a Machinist's Vise with a Vertical Centering Groove in one jaw, a RCBS #12 Shell Holder, and a short piece of .250" diameter Drill Rod to do the expansion.

Next will be to run them into a .25ACP Lee Carbide sizing die to reduce the body diameter down to .276" outside diameter all theh way from the case mouth to the rim.

I also have about 90 resized .32 S&W Long cases I have resized down to .32 Long Colt/.32 Long RF case diameters.

These will be turned to remove the Displaced Brass roll that forms just forward of the rim.

My purposed is to make cases for several obsolete cartridges including:
.25 Stevens Short RF
.25 Stevens Long RF
.250ALR
.250ALS
.250AlRM
.250ALC
.250ALE
.32 Extra Short RF/CF
.32 Short RF/CF
.32 Long RF/CF (several case lengths to match bullets Driving band lengths)

The 'RF' versions will be drilled/reamed to take .22 Blanks/.22 Duo-Fast blanks and also some .25 Cal and .27 Cal Ramset Blanks to use in RF unconverted rifle actions.

I already know from Experiments done by others that these "RF Adapters" work quite well and yield Bullet Velocities
comparable to original factory loaded cartridges.

I have not heard from 'jonboy' since last year so I do not know if he has had progress on his work on the .25 Stevens and Lengthened .25ACP cartridge design experiments.
The .32 development has been aided by "Ndnchf", "Uncra112", "W30wcf", and "Crank" among others on the CAS City, Cast Boolits", "ASSRA", And "Shooters Forum" Forums and Threads.
"Ranch Dog", "F1G1D", "and "Unclenick" of the Shooters Forum have also been providing experience and technical knowledge to the projects.

The Actions are waiting with my Gunsmith and eventually will be completed so that I can start firing experimental Cartridges and Loads myself.

I have on hand Roughing and finishing Chamber Reamers for the .250ALRM/.25 Stevens CF Family of designs that were made by Pacific Tool and Gauge. Since Ammoguide will not list a design until I have purchased the Reamers and I cannot submit load data until they are listed, I guess I will need to be patent until my finances allow buying the remaining sets of Reamers. I do presently have a '.22 Lija' on backorder with Midway Supply to ream the "RF Adapters" for the blanks.

In the mean time another project has had some incremental progress, my gunsmith Threaded my .45 barrel blank to fit my .30 M1 Carbine NOS Winchester Receiver and it sure did look nice to see the two temporally 'married'. It has been in the works for Two years now.

Best Regards,
Chev. William

[Navy Shooter]

It seems the Powder Tool Loads are rated with a heavier mass to be moved, by about double or so.

Power Loads are rated with a 350 grain projectile from a test device. (Washington State Legislature document http://apps.leg.wa.gov/wac/default.a...=296-155-36309)

[Chev. William]

Power Loads are rated with a 350 grain projectile from a test device. (Washington State Legislature document http://apps.leg.wa.gov/wac/default.a...=296-155-36309)

Navy Shooter,
Thank you for posting the link to the statute. From Reading I see they use a 3/8" diameter 'slug' of 350 grain weight but I did not see any description of the length of the 'barrel' the projectile is fired from nor a description of the velocity test set up, do those exist elsewhere in the statutes available to you for posting?
Best Regards,
Chev. William

[Navy Shooter]

W30wcf,
...
IF, and I do mean IF (in Caps) we find some Grade 1 PTL to experiment with I am guessing they would be suitable for bringing the .32 Extra Short RF and .32 Short RF back into the range of shootable cartridges again. in the interim I would guess the 'acorn' shaped .22 blanks such as used with the DGW sold adapter cases would also act as suitable 'primer' for loads in the shorter range of cases as the powder charges would necessarily be small and close to the blank, enhancing probability of reliable ignition.

...

At least as of today, Amazon has Gray Level 1 Powder Loads at http://www.amazon.com/Caliber-Gray-L.../dp/B00BU8M56S. They note they had only 13 in stock, and this is not sourced by Amazon, but by Bellcan Corp.

Gift wrapping is available...

[Navy Shooter]

Navy Shooter,
...I did not see any description of the length of the 'barrel' the projectile is fired from nor a description of the velocity test set up, do those exist elsewhere in the statutes...

I couldn't find anything. I'm guessing that the Washington State statutes are 'borrowed' from some type of standard (e.g. ANSI), and that possible CCI or other manufacturers could tell us what that standard is. On my box of brown Duo-Fast loads, in pretty small print it references Powder Actuated Tool Manufacturers' Institute (PATMI). I sent them a request for this information, and will post it when I receive it.

Thanks,
Navy

[Navy Shooter]

Method for cutting ends off of power loads

There have been a lot of clever ideas posted in this thread. This next one is just different...

I was trying to figure out a good way to remove the powder from the power loads, if the power loads I get are too powerful for my gun. Don't know if they will be, but I am waiting for the firing pin to be repaired, and so wanted to work on a method to create rimfire primers, if the power loads are too strong.

So I went to our local Menard's which is where I bought the power loads from (Duo-Fast brown, power level 2), and began looking at their dies. A sales associate asked if they could help, and I asked if they could tell me what thread size I needed for a .22 cal power load. The sales associate said he hadn't been asked that before...

Threading dies cost about $3 each, and the handles cost about $7 each. But a complete set of taps and dies cost about $26, and I didn't want to make a return trip, so I bought the set.

I drilled a hole in a 5mm thick piece of steel, pushed the cartridge through it, and bolted the plate down to another steel plate. The rim was then sandwiched between the two sheets of steel, and the cartridge was facing up.

I then took a 1/4 X 28 die, and tried to 'cut threads' onto the cartridge. Actually, I was just trying to remove material. It did remove some material, and when it bottomed out on the plate, I gave it another twist or two, as I didn't actually want threads, I wanted to remove material. This removed material approximately down to the 'shoulder' where the blank increases in diameter.

I then repeated that with a 1/4 X 20 die, removing more material. Took a 6mm X 1 die, and repeated the process again. About the same time as the die bottomed out, the material became too thin, and the cartridge was cut. The photo below shows the 6mm die and the cartridge.

After this, the cartridge was removed from the setup, and the powder was emptied.




The end of the cartridge sometimes came out of the die easily, sometimes had to be pulled out with a pair of pliers or a screwdriver.

The process was sometimes long, because I was having to change to three different dies, and all cutting was done by hand. It would probably be possible to take the bottom plate, and add a post going straight down. This could then be chucked into a slow drill, and the cartridge could then be driven into the three dies sequentially.

It might also be possible to put dies into the ends of pipes, so you could just grab a pipe, drive it onto the cartridge by hand, grab a second, then a third, and be done with it. It doesn't take much torque.

I haven't tried either, as I don't want to waste too many cartridges, since the cartridges might be good enough by themselves. Being that they are brown loads, they will probably be too light.

Don't know if this idea is practical for anyone, but aside from the speed issue, it was fairly simple, and if you have a die set, it's pretty cheap.

This has been an excellent thread. My only regret is that my rifle is a .38, so I can't necessarily relate my velocities with the .32 velocities, but the information here gives me a huge lead on developing methods to safely develop loads.

Thanks to everyone who has contributed.

Navy

[Chev. William]

Navy Shooter,
Thanks for the 'heads up' on the Gray PTL loads, I placed an order fo rfour boxes of 100ea.

Your method of removing the top of a Blank is interesting but I wonder if you could use the last die to do it in one pass?
Just a thought.
Best Regards,
Chev. William