Limitations of the Lee Classic Loader

[vacek]

If any of you have a copy of one of the old Ideal / Lyman reloading manuals you will note that in the instructions for the 310 NutCracker or the Little Turret Press (can't remember the name) were for neck sizing. However, in the introduction they showed how to full length resize when needed. This is the type of die I was mentioning earlier. I have around 50 of them. They work very well.

[kenyerian]

I loaded my first shotgun shells ( 16 Guage.)with a Lee Loader back in 68. Still have it and use it . Also have one in 410. I taught my grand sons reloading starting with a lee Loader as it really shows the steps needed to make good reloads. I still like to use them to work up new loads as it is very easy to load 5 of the recomended starting load and then gradually increase the powder charge until you find what your're looking for. They are very flexable.

[Bullet Caster]

I used a Lee Loader for my .357 magnum back in the early to mid 70's. I managed to pop a few caps when trying to seat them. Didn't really bother me but the wife was wondering what happened. I never reallly loaded to .357 magnum velocity 'cause I only shot .38 Specials and loaded to that velocity.

My RBH didn't know the Lee Loader ammo from factory rounds. I eventually sold my RBH .357 and let the Lee Loader go with the pistol. Now I wish I had both back in my possession. It worked wonderfully when I could not afford anything else. BC

[Shooter]

Bullet Caster,
We must be twins. I too had a RBH and Lee loader in the early 70's. Along with my first smokless mould, a Lyman 158 Gr. HP. Loaded M's of rounds.
I used to cast and reload co-workers brass for $5 abox. Factory was about $7.50 at the time.
I miss mine too, that gun saved me one day when I was cornered by a 800# Angus bull calf in a stable. I fired the Ruger in the ground between his feet, and he ran out.

[Dave Bulla]

Here's a couple pic's of what I was talking about earlier about issues with crimping the case mouth on my 45-70 ammo and how I fixed the problem.

At least I hope I get them in here. First time using the advanced page with the upload feature. I don't know if I can drag them in place where I want them or if they all just go in at the end. Find out in a bit I guess.

Anyway, here goes...

#1 is a pic of my plastic bushing laying next to a black powder measure.

#2 is just to show how far it is "possible" to lean things to the side. This should never happen but I did it to show that it is very easy to lean things off center.

#3 is the normal positioning of things for the crimp step. The die is left upright, the bullet is turned nose down and inserted into the top of the die and the decapping chamber is placed over the base of the round to protect the primer and you give a couple careful taps. It's critical to hold everything square to get a good crimp.

#4 is the bushing inserted into the top of the die.

#5 is a case inserted into the bushing. Note how nicely it fits.

#6 is to show how adjustable the die is for overall length. I screwed the pieces together to make a large gap. It could be used like this but you would only control the amount of crimp by how hard or soft you hit the die.

#7 shows the die body adjusted for about a .025" gap between the bushing and the decapping chamber. This ensures equal and repeatable crimping each and every time.

Hope this helps explain things. I'll also say that I was NOT the first one to do this. Another member here posted on the sticky about making one of these and I copied it. I will say that I'd already had the idea but planned to use steel for the part but had not gotten around to having one made. Once i saw his and how well it worked, I got motivated enough to get it done.

Also, this doesn't seem to be as much of an issue with some calibers. My 44 mag loader uses a separate, double ended crimper/expander tool and it works quite well as is. My 30-30 kit is the "Unitized" version and also has the separate tool. My 35 Remington kit might get one of these made for it but it's main issue is that I need to champher the case mouth if crimping jacketed bullets or it won't work. Cast with the deeper groove work fine. I might have to lengthen the lead in angle on the crimping lip inside the die.

[Dave Bulla]

Looks like they went in at the end. Oh well.

By the way, the bushing fits nicely inside the factory plastic box with everything else.

Other things I keep in the kit are the black powder measure even though I seldom use it and a case mouth expander I ordered from Lee that is meant for a 45 long colt but works great on the 45-70. It's pretty essential when loading cast boolits.

[wilded]

I have used Lee loaders since I was 14 and I am now 58 without a hitch ever. I like being able to sit at my range and load three at a time for testing. They also are great for using black powder in pistol cartridges or shot shells that you do not intend to crimp and instead use an over shot wad. I also use them to make shot snake loads in pistol cartridges. Just price the Classic Shotshell loader since they are no longer made and you will see what people think of those little tools. JMHO

[mwk1975]

I found one for a .303 Brit, paid something like $15 plus S/H off ebay. I have been more than pleased with the results. This being a rifle that I don't fire too often, I couldn't reconcile spending more for dies....

[Lead Fred]

Lee figures you buy store boughts, and shoot them, then reload them.
All out of the same rifle. Silly Lee.....

I own 30-30, 30-06, 2x 45/70, and 44 mag.
I use a 8oz Harbor Freight mallet, which works fine.

Dont try to crimp with a framing hammer, it smashes the cases.

[EDG]

I guess Lee never envisioned some one that gets by buying once fired brass.

[UNIQUEDOT]

I guess Lee never envisioned some one that gets by buying once fired brass.

No, I'm sure they didn't back in 1959?? when they were first introduced, but they did make versions of the tool that did full length size.

[Wayne Smith]

There are still a lot of the Lyman full length dies on eBay. I would imagine that 30-06 would be one of the more common. And yes, they appear to do the very same thing as the Simplex vice die.

[Pommy76]

G'Day all,

I have a Lee Loader for my H&R Pardner 410. I am very new to the world of loading , but have not had much luck with it

I can't seem to get the crimp started let alone the roll crimp ( what I'm actually after? ) the tool seems to go straight into the shell itself ???

[UNIQUEDOT]

G'Day all,

I have a Lee Loader for my H&R Pardner 410. I am very new to the world of loading , but have not had much luck with it

I can't seem to get the crimp started let alone the roll crimp ( what I'm actually after? ) the tool seems to go straight into the shell itself ???

The roll crimp is very easy to form with the Lee loader. You push the die body down over the shell til it just starts to roll and then you insert the rammer and push it down. Pull up the rammer and push the die body down a little more and then push down on the rammer again. Repeat til the crimp is formed. It sounds like a lot of work for one round, but after you learn how to use the tool crimps will be formed fast as you will learn to push the die body over the shell while pumping the rammer up and down.

[kevinm600]

I have used a Lee Loader in .300 Win Mag for a bolt action rifle and never had any problems. The Lee Loader is a neat little tool set that makes reloading cheap and fun. The only problem I experienced was I had a primer go off when I was seating it with the rod. I seated it too deep and it went off. It blackened my fingers but did not burn them. Scared the heck out of me!!!

Use a hand primer instead.

[pricedo]

I guess Lee never envisioned some one that gets by buying once fired brass.

You hope it's once fired brass.

[Beekeeper]

Well everyone has pretty well covered most of the good and the bad about Lee Classic Loaders.
I used them when I first started reloading. Still have one for almost every caliber I load for and still use them on occasion.
They are great at the range if you are working up a load and do not mind taking flack from the purests that only own the blue stuff.
I loaded at the range with a 30/06 one when I shot match until I wore it out.
Bought a new one and it is still going strong.

As I see it ,its only drawback is it only neck sizes your brass.
If you shoot multiple weapons in the same caliber you must keep the brass seperated.
Not much of a problem for me but maybe for others.

All said and done for the money you will not get a better value on loading gear anywhere.
Just starting out or an old timer if you don't have them you are missing out on one of the simple things and pleasures about reloading.

If you have them enjoy!


beekeeper

[Green Frog]

If any of you have a copy of one of the old Ideal / Lyman reloading manuals you will note that in the instructions for the 310 NutCracker or the Little Turret Press (can't remember the name) were for neck sizing. However, in the introduction they showed how to full length resize when needed. This is the type of die I was mentioning earlier. I have around 50 of them. They work very well.

Unfortunately, these were not as common as the threaded dies for the 310 tool and TruLine Jr Press. I've been looking without success for the various pistol and revolver FL hammer-type dies for quite a while. I'd really like to find 32 S&W Long, 357 Mag and 44 Mag examples.

Froggie

[Dave Bulla]

Hey guys, I have a tool for 32-20 that was given to me similar to the Lyman one vacek posted the pic of. It was sent to me by a fella from here on the forum who lives in Australia along with a 32-20 Lee Loader which I'd been trying to find for some time. I could never figure out what the heck it was and thought it was a push through boolit sizer only my .313 boolits dropped right through. I'd noticed that one end had a bigger hole than the other and thought that was the end the boolit went in but after seeing this pic it hit me that this might be a sizing die.

It's a little bitty thing only 1 3/8" long which is close to the case length of the 32-20 but without getting the stuff out and measuring, I'm not sure how close. I tried to tap a case into it and it went about half way and stuck pretty hard. I thought at first that maybe I was mistaken but now I'm thinking it might be a matter that I need to lube the case if it does in fact full length size.

The box is marked as follows :

Simplex
Made in Australia by
W. Marden Pty. ltd,
Punchbowl, Sydney.

I'll try to post some pics if I can find my camera and maybe in the mean time I'll sacrifice a casing and lube it up to see if it will pound home. I assume it should go in flush like a Lee Loader?

I also just won an ebay auction for a Unitized version of the Lee Loader in 32-20 and as far as I've been told, the Unitized kit also full length sizes. I'll have to verify that for myself when it arrives.

[Dave Bulla]

Well, just did some searching on line and found my dye listed under "Simpson vice type" dyes and found that it is in fact a full length resizing die that DOES require lube. Here's a link to one that looks like mine but is not the same caliber.

http://westernfirearms.com.au/reload...ie-p-3564.html