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Thread: 6.5x53R Dutch

  1. #41
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    What about a custom mould in a heeled bullet design, like the old 38 short Colt. That portion of the bullet to be seated in the case was of narrower diameter than that above the canelure. I picture a big 155 - 160 grs RN with couple of lube bands above the heel, soft lead, sized to groove depth with a short heel that allows you to seat at case diameter comfortably. Keep 'em soft, stick to 2000 fps and less. Interesting.

  2. #42
    Boolit Master Good Cheer's Avatar
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    Yeah, something like that might be the ticket. At this point I'm even pondering an alteration to the double cavity 266469 to make one side a larger diameter four banded lubed lead boolit and the other a paper patch with just micro-ribs to help hold the paper. However, the same alloy probably wouldn't happen to be best for both... tinker tinker, tinker tinker, tinker tinker. Meanwhile, polish shoot, polish shoot, polish shoot.

  3. #43
    Boolit Master Good Cheer's Avatar
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    There are ways to lap out a mold and there are ways not to lap out a mold.
    I have discovered one of the latter.
    Heavy sigh.

  4. #44
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    I'm still working on the barrel, as a labor of love, a fun project. Using slugs with embedded grit. Shot after shot. Yeah, I could take out metal more aggressively by other means but the point is to slowly take off what is sticking up, slowly working into a bore configuration that is useable for shooting. Well, perhaps some day it'll work out. If not then I will have accrued a great amount of knowledge along the way.

  5. #45
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    Slowly but surely it's getting better. Now instead of the bore looking like photos of Luna taken during an Apollo mission it's starting to look like somebody used rat shot on Gramma's wash board. Much better.

    Instead of lead slugs rolled on coarse Clover compound it's graduated to Lyman's 266469 with a triple wrap rubbed with fine grade Clover after loading the boolit with finger pressure. The very rear of the patched boolits are sized to fit the case neck.

    Was shooting these at a gong this evening with a .22RF case of Unique beneath a tuff of quilt batting.
    Pop (wait) spang. Scrub scrub scrub. Pop (wait) spang. Only had three left before one finally stuck in the barrel. Being it's such a small bore, reckon I'd better hunt up a 1/4" brass rod tomorrow to get it out.

  6. #46
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    Got it out.

    And between 3/16" music wire and sundry items have fashioned a spiffy rod for driving lead slugs through to be checking further progress.
    This is the first time I've seen how one reacts with the gas check and bottom band sized to go into the case mouth.

  7. #47
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  8. #48
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    Guys, this looks like it's gonna work.
    Had some peanut pineapple ginger chicken with wasabe and I'm ready for some more pop-spangs.

  9. #49
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    The worst corrosion was at the muzzle. And, that is also the location that gets the least or rather the slowest polishing action with fire forming.
    Here's the muzzle today. This is a vast improvement over what it looked like when the process of rehabilitation first began.
    Well, there's nothing to do but continue.

  10. #50
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    This is the current fire lap load.

    May end up having the 266469 altered to get rid of the deep lube grooves and to add slightly larger bands.

  11. #51
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    really interesting post. Keep us informed.

  12. #52
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    It's time to get a larger diameter mold and I'm thinking about having the 266469 altered.
    Yall think a smooth sided alteration to the mold would hold the patch or are some ribs really needed?

  13. #53
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    I shoot both swaged pure lead paper patch bullets with black powder and lube grooved cast bullets with smokeless. Provided the bullet BHN is matched to load pressure and provided you do a good job patching, a nice snug wet fit, there should be no problem. The formula is load psi (chamber pressure) / 1422 = BHN at which you will have obturation. You can err on the higher side with a well patched bullet but for smooth sided in your application I would think BHN 15 -16 would be your upper end.

  14. #54
    Boolit Master Good Cheer's Avatar
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    Thanks. I shoot smooth sided in muzzleloaders but you know how that works... it doesn't get crammed into rifling because it's already sitting in the rifling waiting to get booted.

  15. #55
    Boolit Master madsenshooter's Avatar
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    I was just thinking about this post earlier today as I scrubbed a couple thousandths of carbon fouling out of an Arisaka. Thought I had one with a nice tight .264 groove diameter. Once the fouling was out, it was .268, and it is pitted, not as bad as yours, but one can tell it was fired a lot with corrosive primers. I'm going to take the easy way out and pre-foul the bore with thinned LLA, hoping to fill some of the pits back up before firing it with LLA lubed bullets. Luckily I got a mold from NOE some time ago that drops at .270.
    "If people let the government decide what foods they eat and what medicines they take, their bodies will soon be in as sorry a state as are the souls of those who live under tyranny."

    -Thomas Jefferson

  16. #56
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    Latest photo.

    Still doing pop-spangs. Very slow process. Had made up a bunch to range test, looked at close up photos and decided to keep polishing. The 266469 tendency towards key holing is going away. By the way, this piece has an eight inch twist. I'm leaning strongly towards using the mold as a smooth sided round nose. Still pondering the best way to go but do not see a better option yet.
    Last edited by Good Cheer; 11-13-2013 at 06:27 PM.

  17. #57
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    Something like this.

  18. #58
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    Still fire lapping. Tried some rather "soft" graph paper today just to see what would happen. The dried patches were .280" plus in diameter.
    The hind end tore off these patches right around where the the diameter was sized to .270".


    This is one with the 9# rag bond paper. It stuck about three inches from the muzzle. Drove it out from the breech end, on out the muzzle.


    The barrel really is getting to be much improved. There's hope yet.

  19. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by madsenshooter View Post
    I was just thinking about this post earlier today as I scrubbed a couple thousandths of carbon fouling out of an Arisaka. Thought I had one with a nice tight .264 groove diameter. Once the fouling was out, it was .268, and it is pitted, not as bad as yours, but one can tell it was fired a lot with corrosive primers. I'm going to take the easy way out and pre-foul the bore with thinned LLA, hoping to fill some of the pits back up before firing it with LLA lubed bullets. Luckily I got a mold from NOE some time ago that drops at .270.
    Best wishes on your project sir. Are you going to post your trial and error results?

  20. #60
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    Using a .257" 117 grain round nose as go-no go gauge, the jacketed bullet pushed into the muzzle meets resistance from the lands at the point just about where the last stuck boolit occurred. Just enough so it needs to be encouraged with a rod tap to get it on through. So, the corrosion at the muzzle is getting real close to being evened up with the inner portions of the bore. Well, I got lots of paper and lots of valve grinding compound.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check