Do stainless steel pins work? (Here you go)

[rasto]

Thank you guys for your answers.
I was taking care about your guy from states deployed in Sarajevo tonight on 4. of July
I was asking local seller about the stainless wire to be cut by my own and the price was 36$ per 1kg of uncut wire!!!!!!
I need contact other source and do not worry I will keep you informed according my tumbler project after my deployment.

[Longwood]

Thank you guys for your answers.
I was taking care about your guy from states deployed in Sarajevo tonight on 4. of July
I was asking local seller about the stainless wire to be cut by my own and the price was 36$ per 1kg of uncut wire!!!!!!
I need contact other source and do not worry I will keep you informed according my tumbler project after my deployment.

Aircraft safety wire is a good quality stainless wire that can be found in .041.
Cutting it into small pieces would sure be a problem.

[Moonman]

You'll need some type of automated shear to try to make your own from uncut wire, LOTS OF PINS in 5 POUNDS.

A SLOTTER/SHAPER/INTERNAL KEYWAY ATTACHMENT ON A BRIDGEPORT TYPE MILLING MACHINE MAY BE ABLE TO ACT AS A SHEAR WITH THE RIGHT TOOL. You could manually push the wire through a guide hole to a stop and the Slotter would shear the required length that you set. You would need to get your RYTHMN in SYNC with the Machine.

It's TO YOUR BENEFIT, if the ALLOY of STAINLESS is A MAGNETIC ONE THAT DOES NOT RUST.

MAGNETIC PINS aid with the pick-up of loose pins, and you will drop a few for sure, accidents happen, and with no rust, you can leave the pins in the tumbling drum wet and not have a rusting problem.

[hunter64]

One thing that I did notice with the stainless steel pins versus the old corn cob method of cleaning is how clean the inside of the case neck gets on a bottle neck rifle round.

For years I would have to take a dab of lube and just touch the case mouth on the inside and then a little on the outside as normal to resize the brass. I switched to spray on lube which is excellent but I still had to put some lube on about every third case mouth to keep the brass from sticking on the sizing rod as you pulled the ram out of the die. It wouldn't stick hard but just enough to be bothersome.

I did some reloading a couple of weeks ago for my 30-30 and I didn't have to lube the inside of the mouth at all. I did 300 cases without once having to touch the case mouth and nice and slick in the die.

Reloading pistol rounds you would never experience this but bottle neck rounds it was an eye opener on how unclean my brass before was compared to the tumbled with stainless steel pins is now.

[Slingshot]

I have been using the STM for about a month now. I have used it on some FA53 30-06 brass that my father had laying around a long time. I think the last time these saw daylight was in 53.

Anyhow they were very dirty and spotted, I deprimed them and ran them in the thumblers tumbler as the directions stated with Lemi-shine and Dawn soap.

WOW! cleaned inside and out and the primer pocket like they were just made. I use a Cabela's media seperator when I dump them out, after rinsing I put them on a towel and roll them around a while and then lay them out to dry further.

It is the best stuff I have used yet. I also used it on 223 Military brass that has been fired and very dirty with the same results. Oh, and no stuck pins in the primer pockets.

Jeff / Slingshot

[birdadly]

Oh, and no stuck pins in the primer pockets.

Jeff / Slingshot

I just bought this setup and have run 2 sessions with it. I ran 200 rounds of 45acp the first time, and 250 rounds the second time. I'm extremely pleased with the results, and don't mind the extra time at all in this process. I believe it's very minimal "extra" time actually.

But, I had 9 cases have the SS pins stuck in the flash hole. A few posts up I read someone say to run the tumbler with just the pins in it first. The directions didn't say to do this, but would the "deburring" help the pins NOT get stuck in the flash holes?

Thanks! -Brad

[Recluse]

For 95% of my brass cleaning, the stainless steel method is way more work than I want or need to do. Way more.

But for that 5% of brass I find that's been in the dirt forever or that is really dirty/tarnished/ugly, they probably do the best job of cleaning brass that I've ever seen.

The irony is that with my Thumler's, I use ground walnut with a cash of mineral spirits and a half-capful of NuFinish. I set the timer and let it run for 12 to 24 hours, depending on how dirty the brass is. Afterward, off with the top and pour through the sifter and separator and the brass looks new.

It then goes in my Rubbermaid shoeboxes with a couple of handfuls of dessicants and then the "brass closet" storage cabinet and it stays clean and shiny for several years without even a hint of tarnish.

After the SS media, washing, rinsing, drying. . . I still toss the brass in the tumbler with some NuFinish to put a coat of wax on it to keep it from tarnishing.

[o6Patient]

I've always used walnut and corn cob but walnut always seemed to clean better for me but those SS
pins look like the cats meow.

[Greg]

Hunter 64,
could you up date this old thread ? at least the parts lists and pictures ?? I"m wanting to build one (finally) and the pictures are gone
thanks for your help, may God continue to Bless all ya'll
Greg

[obssd1958]

Greg,
I use Chrome for my browser, and there is an extension that automatically fixes the issues that Photobucket caused when they started holding everyone hostage by making the links inactive. It works really well, it's seamless as far as I can tell, and I can see all of the pictures that Hunter64 originally posted.
Here's a link to the extension:
https://chrome.google.com/webstore/d...alioapbifiaedg

Not sure if there is a fix if you're using a different browser.

Don

[Beebee]

Not thread related but thanks for the link for chrome. I usually use Firefox but ive been looking at some old threads and having the pictures back is sure nice.