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Thread: Converting Berdan primer pockets to Boxer

  1. #141
    Boolit Buddy sixpointfive's Avatar
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    on this group of berdan cases the two flash holes are large/ After I put in my SR primer I can see light when I look in to the case. The lih=ght is the edge of the primer up against the berdan primer holes

  2. #142
    Boolit Buddy
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    That sounds like a good idea for centering the flash hole. I will be working on this next week i will let you know how it works out.

  3. #143
    Boolit Buddy
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    Quote Originally Posted by sixpointfive View Post
    on this group of berdan cases the two flash holes are large/ After I put in my SR primer I can see light when I look in to the case. The lih=ght is the edge of the primer up against the berdan primer holes
    What cases are you working with? Can you post pix?
    Last edited by Mike 56; 09-03-2013 at 04:00 PM.

  4. #144
    Boolit Buddy sixpointfive's Avatar
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    Here it is, I think the original berdan flash holes are too big. The last batch of berdan cases I had dad smaller flash holes.

    Attachment 80951

  5. #145
    Boolit Buddy
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    Those holes are huge. I don't think i would try plugging them.

  6. #146
    Boolit Buddy sixpointfive's Avatar
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    the other berdan stuff I converted in 6.5x55 and 7.62x54r all had tiny holes and work great with many firings using small rifle primers.

  7. #147
    Boolit Grand Master


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    So far I haven't run across any cases with flash holes that large. As with anything like this there are probably some cases that will be oddb als and won't work.

    Larry Gibson

  8. #148
    Boolit Buddy sixpointfive's Avatar
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    I just received 125 cases from a brother here at cast boolits. Out of all of these only five cases had the small berdan flash holes. So now I have 150 cases with the larger flash holes. There has got to be a way to make these reloadable. They are all marked "87".

    Ok, I punched out .010" aluminum discs, swaged them to bottom of primer pockets and drilled flash holes.
    Last edited by sixpointfive; 09-06-2013 at 09:51 AM.

  9. #149
    Boolit Buddy sixpointfive's Avatar
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    Ok, I punched out .010" aluminum discs, swaged them to bottom of primer pockets and drilled flash holes.

  10. #150
    Boolit Mold JohnTheGreat's Avatar
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    I'm going to attempt this on 7.62x54r steel... Will let you all know how it works out... Just have to get the tools!!! As I am new to reloading is there anything I should look out for!?!? Thanks for this wonderful information guys!!!

  11. #151
    Boolit Grand Master uscra112's Avatar
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    Just that steel cases will not play nicely with your sizing dies.
    Cognitive Dissident

  12. #152
    Boolit Master Garyshome's Avatar
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    OK after the liberal apocalypse happens and i don't have to work for a while I will try this out, unless I have some berdan primers to use up first.

  13. #153
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by sgt.mike View Post
    seems like I read a method of converting to Boxer but life expectancy vs work involved did not make the cut. I think it was Cartridge conversations book.
    A lot of what has been written in the past is no longer valid. Properly done a converted case should last just as long as any other.
    When push comes to shove, any useable case is a good option.

  14. #154
    Boolit Master freebullet's Avatar
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    I read all of the conversion threads I could find last year. Here is what I came up with as the fastest way to deal with Berdan primers.
    I pick up non-rusted steel cases for free. They get tumbled in walnut for 15-20 minutes, longer can remove the coating on the cases. Then the case gets set in a socket, put in the decapper,turn it till it drops in the flash hole, & smack it with a screwdriver handle. You can get 1k done this way while watchin tv with yer lady, in one evening.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Then they get reprimed, using a hornady hand primer. Used 1000 grit paper on the large primer end of the tray, it took almost no sanding. Basically smooth it to make them feed. I had 2 go off repriming, & am working on a stop washer that can hopefully prevent any going off. If you get a feel for it you know when to stop, but a postive stop will be better. The primers can be ordered from grafs & several other retailers, they are no more $ then boxers.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Then I chargem & seat the boolit. I learned after making the test loads pictured, that the steel cases like a generous chamfer on the mouth to prevent shaving the boolits.

    Attachment 86036

    GO SHOOT!!!

  15. #155
    Boolit Master
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    Seems to me the original flash holes should be enough , no real need to drill or punch a central flash hole for boxer primers. The anvil legs should not block the flash holes, the primer flash will still find its way through the two small holes.

    I have a small bit that's basically a rotary file with radial teeth on the face for plunge cutting. I think it came with some generic dremil bits.
    Drilling the berdan anvil in the center even with the bottom of the pocket would remove most of the metal, then plunge cut it till its all gone.

    Use a drill press, with a thick aluminum plate bolted to the table with hole in the center a close fit to the cartridge case base. That should hold the case head secure enough to prevent wandering.

    Also I should mention that a study on case head failures of Frankford Arsenal ammunition in 1934 was shown to be due to one leg of a primer staking die being longer than the rest. The extra length caused a work hardened stress line on that side of the case head.
    It was also found that the act of stamping the head stamp was beneficial in hardening the rim of a case.
    So any re swaging of brass primer pockets should be done with great care.
    Last edited by Multigunner; 11-02-2013 at 05:52 AM.

  16. #156
    Boolit Master freebullet's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Multigunner View Post
    Seems to me the original flash holes should be enough , no real need to drill or punch a central flash hole for boxer primers. The anvil legs should not block the flash holes, the primer flash will still find its way through the two small holes.

    I have a small bit that's basically a rotary file with radial teeth on the face for plunge cutting. I think it came with some generic dremil bits.
    Drilling the berdan anvil in the center even with the bottom of the pocket would remove most of the metal, then plunge cut it till its all gone.

    Use a drill press, with a thick aluminum plate bolted to the table with hole in the center a close fit to the cartridge case base. That should hold the case head secure enough to prevent wandering.

    Also I should mention that a study on case head failures of Frankford Arsenal ammunition in 1934 was shown to be due to one leg of a primer staking die being longer than the rest. The extra length caused a work hardened stress line on that side of the case head.
    It was also found that the act of stamping the head stamp was beneficial in hardening the rim of a case.
    So any re swaging of brass primer pockets should be done with great care.

    The purpose of the central flash hole convert is to be able to deprime them normally next go round.

  17. #157
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by freebullet View Post
    The purpose of the central flash hole convert is to be able to deprime them normally next go round.
    I can see how that would be more convenient.
    The old hydraulic de-capping procedure once used on Berdan primers should work on Boxer primers from a two hole cup. Once any military type staking or criming and been removed at least.
    The method I described would at least leave the case head less weakened. Might be worth the extra effort in de-capping.

  18. #158
    Boolit Buddy Twmaster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Multigunner View Post
    I can see how that would be more convenient.
    The old hydraulic de-capping procedure once used on Berdan primers should work on Boxer primers from a two hole cup. Once any military type staking or criming and been removed at least.
    The method I described would at least leave the case head less weakened. Might be worth the extra effort in de-capping.
    If you are going to take the extra bother to decap these like you would Berdan primers why bother converting them at all?
    Mike

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    1 in office. 1 in prison.

  19. #159
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    My method of conversion as originally posted allows the converted cases to be reloaded the same as any Boxer primed case. I now have 303 Brit, 7.65 Argentine and 8x57 brass cases converted along with the 7.62x54R cases and all have been reloaded multiple times with no problems or loss of any cases.

    Larry Gibson

  20. #160
    Boolit Master freebullet's Avatar
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    With the life of Berdan primed brass the conversion would be worth it. Some of the brass is of very high quality. The steel cases are not really worth the conversion. Usually only get to reload them 0-6 times, the case necks will split when you size them. If you gettem free they are worth dealing with.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check