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Thread: Converting Berdan primer pockets to Boxer

  1. #41
    Boolit Man
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    Larry Gibson,
    You can see ,its a simpel way to deprime berdan primers.

    Leo[IMG]po20100531_0003[/IMG]

  2. #42
    Boolit Man
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    Sorry Larry,
    I try to send a picture , its goes wrong.
    Leo

  3. #43
    Boolit Master



    SciFiJim's Avatar
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    cast367, keep trying. There is a tutorial on how to post pictures here.

    http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=108333


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  4. #44
    Boolit Master

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    I'm with Larry. I have tried several times to use the hydraulic method and so far have been unsuccessful. Water all over is the result for me.

    I wound up making a hook type deprimer that was easy to make and works very well.

    Info here:

    http://parallaxscurioandrelicfirearm...l#.UCfdEuxmwYA

    Post #5.

    I used an old blade screw driver and ground a similar hook. A rap with a hammer and pry out the primer. I use a piece of 5/16" steel rod held in a vice to support the cartridge. Works slick. In fact I was planning to make a "sealed" hydraulic punch but this works so well I didn't bother.

    Longbow
    Last edited by longbow; 08-12-2012 at 12:47 PM. Reason: Spelling!

  5. #45
    Boolit Master



    SciFiJim's Avatar
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    Helping out a brother caster.

    cast367 sent me some pictures to post in reference to post #41.
    The pictures seem pretty simple to understand. He can supply the explanation on removing berdan primers.













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  6. #46
    Boolit Master Ola's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NEVADABACKROADER View Post
    By the way, I have heard that you can deprime Berdan cases by filling the case with water, inserting a close fitting dowel, and rapping that dowel with a mallet. The hydraulic pressure pops the old primer out. With 217 primers available, this should be the easy way to reload these cases. Has anybody tried this?
    The water pressure works like a charm. I've used a sizing die with a "custom" piston in side of it. Fill the case with water and make a short fast stroke with the reloading press -> the primer pops out. Then wait a second and rest of the water comes out, then complete the stroke -> you have deprimed and resized the case.

  7. #47
    Boolit Master


    Larry Gibson's Avatar
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    And water all over the press, bench and/or floor?

    Larry Gibson

  8. #48
    Boolit Master

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    I need to add hip waders to my reloading set-up ...Ray
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  9. #49
    Boolit Master

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    The awl method in those photos is about the same as the "hook & pry" method in the link I posted.

    I just use a piece of 5/16" rod in a vice to support the cartridge bit that is for .303 and 5/16" just fits in a fired case mouth.

    Pretty easy and a lot dryer than hydraulic removal. I will have to try that again though just to actually see if I can make it work. I was wet and defeated last time!

    Longbow

  10. #50
    Boolit Master Ola's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Larry Gibson View Post
    And water all over the press, bench and/or floor?
    Larry Gibson
    Less than one might think. I had a bucket under the press (hanging from the bench) and most of the water went in there.
    Afterwards it took couple of seconds to dry the floor and bench. And 1-2 minutes with the press (drying with a towel, WD-40 treatment, towel again, lubricating...)

    I will definitely use the same method also in the future.

  11. #51
    Boolit Man motorcycle_dan's Avatar
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    Excellent post and very helpful. I had converted just 5 cases to see if it would work for a M95 Styer. 8x56R is very hard to come by and the conversion was fairly easy. Rather than hand drill, I used a small hobby lathe to spin the case which forces the drill held in the tail stock to find perfect center. Small flash hole first then the larger drill for the small rifle primer. Used a dillon primer pocket swager. All worked well. Thanks
    Dan, A fast bullseye shooter or slow action pistol shooter.

  12. #52
    Boolit Master JIMinPHX's Avatar
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    I tried the water method on Berdan brass. I used an O-ring on my piston to avoid having the water go all over the place. If the cases did not have crimped in primers, it worked well. If the primers were crimped, then the neck of the brass ballooned out & the primer stayed in.
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  13. #53
    Boolit Master Harter66's Avatar
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    Last spring I did a bunch of 7.62x39. I did a little tool to drill from the inside out. The tool goes in through the neck and is "self centering" . I drill about .08 into the head w/1/16 in drill then decap as normal w/my custom decaping rod for standard RCBS dies.

    The tool is 5/16 hardware store rod center drilled to accept the 1/16 drill bit and cross drilled and tapped to accept an 8-32 Allen screw for a lock stud for the bit. I chose 1/16 as it was cheap and plentyfull here in Podunk,as opposed to its respective no.drill.



    I swaged the pockets w/ another custom tool to accept boxer lg rifle. I fired 200 rnds at the NCBS in June w/o any noticeable primer leaks or fall outs loading 23.0 gr of 4350 over a CCI primer w/200 gr PP'd boolit.
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  14. #54
    Boolit Mold
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    easier way

    To make the berdan anvil in the primer pocket they use a punch that leaves an indent inside the case. It is very easy to use a long, small diameter drill bit from the mouth of the case (using the indent to align the bit) to drill a new center hole. Don't drill through the old primer and then use your usuall die to remove it. This also removes most of the anvil and makes cleaning the pocket easier.

  15. #55
    Boolit Master

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    This is very similar to the primer pocket rings Freedom Arms used in the first 454 Casuall brass to go from a large primer pocket to a small primer pocket.
    I'll have to keep my eye out for brass cases now. I do have an old Craftsman hobby lathe so it sohuld help me out.

    I also want to try to convert the 7.62 X 38R Nagant revolver brass to boxer primer.

    Very good posting on how to do this Larry.

  16. #56
    Boolit Master
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    Wouldn't it be simpler to buy Prvi Partizan 7.62x38R brass already Boxer primed?

  17. #57
    Boolit Bub
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    I was lucky enought to order 10,000 berdan primers from el dorado ctg in NM, they are the std .217 caps.
    I have a carcano rifle, and take military ammo, pull the bullets, save the solenite powder for July 4th , and the primed cases are loaded with 6.0grs red dot powder, and a #2 buckshot is seated in the case. These are used indoor range at 50'. After all are shot, i decap ( a drill shank ground thin can be inserted and the caps taken out. I then made a clamp from wood(kinda like a clothspin) to hold the cases. I ground a reamer and hollowed the end, and I ream the pockets to accept the .217 primer(Italians used a .200 dia primer) I reload these cases with 30grs IMR4064, and reseat the military bullets. They work perfectly. one other prooblem, the military cases have a shelf (fold) inside the neck to support the long bullet, when the expander ball hits it the case is crushed. if you cut it out, then the neck comes off in the chamber (big problem) so I size without the expander, and then just expand the neck enough to take the bullet, with a 6.5mm neck expander die.

  18. #58
    Hi Larry ---

    Please e-mail your article ---"converting berdan primer pockets to boxer"

    Thanks

    Gary

  19. #59
    Boolit Master
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    There are a few videos on YouTube of doing the water punch method if you put you caliber specific sizing die and set it high in the press so as to not size the case and just have the decaping/ expander unit go into the case mouth then fill the cases with water and punch them into the die in a quick jerking motion it will pop the primer out then you can swedge the primer pocket to large rifle specs which will push the anvil up and close the 2 berdan flash holes then drill an new flash hole and you can use standard large rifle primers, I have the Dillion super swedger which is stupid over built it wil swedge a pocket next or you pocket if you don't line it up right so swedging out a berdan in no sweat I have never used the press mounted rcbs set up so I can not speak of its strength but I would imagine it could work ad well

  20. #60
    Boolit Man
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    I don't wan't to over simplify things but I had a bunch of 5.56 mm cases that had the berdan crimp. After looking into several different methods and tools to remove the crimp I ended up buying a pair of lyman primer pocket reamers 1 small and 1 large they have worked great for me and it only takes a few seconds per case to do. Cost was about $21.00 for the set from lyman. I do this after running the brass through the sizing die. It punches the old primer and then I ream out the pocket and then continue with the rest of the case prep.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check