? for the star guy's/gals

[blaser.306]

How pointy of boolit can reasonably be pushed thru a Star die , I guess I am asking how much resistance is there from the boolit already in the die when the next is pushed thru. Will it work with for instance, RCBS 6.5 sil,NOE 7MM hunter and RCBS 168 gr sp I can order a new star for $15.00 more than I can buy a lyman 4500 for here in Canada . The only big problem is having to replace all my existing sizers. Thanks in advance.

[engineer401]

If it only cost $15 more, I'd purchase the Star. I first bought a 4500 and recently purchased a Magma Star. Magma are terrific to deal with. I now wonder why I didn't buy the Star in the first place. I purchased sizing dies from Lathesmith on this forum who did great work for a better price than the factory. As for the pointed bullets, I can't answer what will work best. I have an old Cramer wad cutter mold with a small point at the tip. I don't see any damage to the tip when I push the bullets through. Magma and others suggested sizing/lubing one bullet at a time and using something like a dowel of smaller diameter to push the bullet through. I haven't done this. Others on this forum may have some experience with this method. The rest of my molds are flat nosed. Therefore, it isn't a problem for me.

[VHoward]

I have a Lymann 4500. I am so dis-satisfied with it that I went looking for a different machine. I noticed that the RCBS sizer was similar in design and avoided that one. I purchased a Magma Star and am currently waiting for it to arrive. I also purchased a die and punch from Lathesmith. Those have come already.

The Lymann 4500 wasn't worth the $150 I paid for it. I won't miss it. Getting really tired of the rings around the tops of my bullets.

[MikeS]

To answer your question, I'll tell you what I did. I was sizing some Lee 312-155-1R boolits (the one designed for the 7.62x39) down to .311, and they have a spire point, so I sized one, then I took a flat boolit (311316) that I had previously cast/lubed/sized and with that I pushed out the freshly sized/lubed boolit. Then I put another of the new boolits in, and it pushed out the 311316 which I caught in my hand, and then used again to push out the boolit that was just sized/lubed. The reason I did this was I was installing gas checks at the same time, and didn't want the pointy nose pushing on the gas check, so basically was using the 311316 as a disposable boolit to keep the other boolit's bases undamaged. The nose didn't seem to mind pushing the 311316 thru the die, but part of that is because it was already sized, and had plenty of lube on it.

Another idea I had that I've yet to try would be to get 2 nose punches made that fit the nose perfectly, and just end while still smaller than the bore, and not attached to anything. Using this method, you would size the boolits base first, and after putting a boolit in the die, you would place one of the nose punches on it, and push the boolit thru the sizer. Then you would take another boolit, and put the second nose punch on it, and push it thru the sizer, and by doing this, the first nose punch should come out the bottom of the sizer, along with the just sized boolit. Then take the first nose punch that you just recovered from the bottom of the sizer, and use it to push another boolit thru, and keep repeating this process till done. I have an NOE 314129 that has a very sharp nose, and comes with a Lyman type nose punch that perfectly mates with the boolit, I'm going to see if I can either get Al to make me 2 nose punches like I described, or just get a couple of the Lyman style punches, and cut it off at the mounting portion. The biggest problem with this idea is getting the nose punches, as I always forget about them till I'm ready to size some of those boolits! I hope this helps, and didn't confuse you anymore than I already am.

[cajun shooter]

Blazer 306, I don't quite get Mike S posting about nose punches as the Star works just opposite of the RCBS and Lyman sizers by using the nose first base up position.
I have been using Star's since 1970 and you may get buy with just one or two base size punches. It comes with a universal one from the factory which will work well for all bullets up to your 44's. A larger punch works better with the larger 45 type of bullets.
The only time you need a punch that fits the bullet base very close is when you are seating gas checks. Any other bullets may be done with just one punch.
If you contact Lathesmith and tell him what bullets you are sizing and lubing, he will make one for you that works . You may need to send him a bullet or the sizes for sure.
If the stock punch does not push the bullet all the way so that the tip is damaged on the following bullet then a simple round dowel of steel. Like a pin dowel found in any hardware will work to insert into the die and allow contact with the flat punch to push the bullet from the die. Very simple and no hassle.Later David

[MikeS]

I guess I forgot to mention that considering the boolit size (7mm) and that it was a pointy boolit I assumed that along with sizing & lubing, gas checks would be seated as well. In my experience (which IS limited) I found that a pointy boolit will deform the gas check of the boolit that's currently in the die. By using a single flat nosed boolit between the boolits being sized eliminates the problem. This is how I size my NOE 314129 boolits. The other idea I posted is something I thought about, but have not tried yet. While most folks size nose first in a Star, it's also possible to size base first and originally that's how it was done, and nose punches were common for different boolit styles. My idea while sizing them base first, it uses a standard flat base punch, as well as 2 nose punches that are made to go completely thru the die. So in use you would put a GC on the base of the boolit, then put the boolit into the sizer base first, then place 1 of the nose punches on top of the boolit, then using the flat base punch that's installed in the Star you would push the check/boolit/nose punch (which is acting as a nose protector for the lower boolit, and a flat surface to aid in the seating of the check on the next boolit going into the sizer) into the die, while retrieving the nose punch used on the boolit before it.

Does this make it any clearer? If I had a couple of the loose nose punches, and a video camera I could show what I'm typing about, and it would probably be much clearer.


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[cajun shooter]

The Star will set gas checks very easy with the nose first position and a base punch that is very close to base diameter. I use a punch that is at least .004 within the size of the bullet base and receive very nice GC crimps.The Star is designed to seat GC in a nose first position and not like the nose up of Lyman and RCBS sizers. It's explained in the Star manual. No other tools or the use of other bullets is needed.

[runfiverun]

stars used to use nose punches.
the worst they do is put a slight dent in the gas check base.
you can check/lube.and then push it through before doing the next one.
i haven't seen any bad affects from the little dimple in the check.
i do size the rcbs silh boolits the lyman 168,and even the lyman spirepoint using ww's and pure/soft waterdropped without issues.
i just ground the head on a nail down to the size i wanted, and cut it off ,to push the first boolit through.

[BossHoss]

I have many nose punches for my San Diego Star, because it was used base first .

Using the "pig" method , pointy rifle bullets can go nose first with their Gas checks on, the "pig" is inserted, pushed through and the bullet is caught, along with the undersized "pig".

Repeat. Just don't fully stroke the handle and operate the pump for the "pig" stroke.

Base first, using MikeS' method , you need a cutoff nose punch "pig" that fits the nose of the bullet in the die AFTER it is in the lube postion in the die. I like this idea, because I prefer base first for rifle bullets without gas checks. The "pig" would have to be custom to the bullet , the right ogive to fit the bullet nose and flat on top cut within .003 of the die to prevent distortion. Great method for base first. But, custom "pig" needed. No biggie for Lathesmith.

I am also sure you could make a pointy nose bullet base first "pig" from hardwood that you carve the nose ogive into...if careful , you could make one that would do the job, and not damage the nose.....trial and error method.

I recently purchased a San Diego Star with many dies here....all base first top punches from long ago. I now have an awesome collection of them.

I will be selling the Star soon, I don't need two. I bought it as a package deal JUST for the dies and base first punches.

[M-Tecs]

When I first got my Star I thought I only needed one. Unless you only load a couple of calibers with the same lube I would recommend keeping the second. If you are going to sell it please keep me in mind. I am looking for a third one.

[MikeS]

Actually for the 'pig' I was thinking of NOE that supplies a Lyman/RCBS style nose punch with each mould they sell. Well, if another one was ordered, then both cut short to remove the upper section that mounts in the Lyman/RCBS sizer, you would have a nice aluminum 'pig' that's been cut with the same cherry used to make the mould (I think that's what NOE says about their nose punches).

David: While I'm sure you use gas checks, being that you only shoot BPCR I doubt you shoot many very pointy boolits! (correct me if I'm wrong about that) When using sharp pointy boolits, and putting gas checks on at the same time, the boolit leaves a nice mark on the back of the gas check! By doing it either way I mentioned would fix that problem.

[cbrick]

I use a scrap bullet to push out the good bullet also (base to base). No need to ever touch the nose of spitzer bullets and it still seats check perfectly. This bullet was sized nose first without lube or check to take the picture. This is NOE 311365.

Rick

[MT Chambers]

Blaser, it depends on the hardness of bullet and dia. before sizing, these will dictate the amount of resistance.....Ben