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Thread: My Homemade Mold for an Ugly Paper Patch Bullet

  1. #61
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Dang! no wonder my ears were burning!
    I dont know if I can help, but I can tell you that I tried using a burr like the one in the photo above. No good. One of the most important things when cutting any material is getting the chips and shavings out of the hole. The gummier the material, the more important it is to keep it cleared. That roughing burr has not got enough flut depth to clear the chips, even when you flood it with coolant/oil/WD-40/kerosine (ask me how I know)
    The best scenario is a spiral fluted cutter made of HSS or similar material. However for the purpose of building an aluminum mold, a D style reamer, made of soft steel will work. The problem with the D style reamer is that it has a neutral to shallow cutting edge rake that does about as much smearing as it does cutting. I find that for soft material like aluminum, you need a positive rake and a sharp edge, used with lots of cutting fluid. Here is a picture of one of mine:

    It was made by cutting a cylinder on the lathe the size of the finished cavity, then blending the profile with a file until I saw the boolit design I was after.
    Then I mounted it in the milling machine and cut a radiused groove in it to create a single flute. Back to the lathe and used a file to relieve all but the very cutting edge. I then mounted the blocks in the milling machine vice and plunged the cavities to a stop with lots and lots of cutting oil, retracting the tool often to aid in chip removal.
    I would think that anybody could do this with a drill press, if you used a chainsaw file to cut multiple flutes so that the thing would track and create a round hole.
    Another tip, (at least it worked for me) with a mold made of aluminum, you need the cavities to be about .002 larger than the finished boolit. As it happens, all of my cutters cut .002 oversize, so it was a snap! I just made the cutters the size that I wanted the finished boolits to be.
    Here's a few pictures of my molds that I have tried:



    Incidentally, the last one is a 50 cal muzzle loading boolit that I built paper patch cartridges for.
    Everybody said it wouldn't work because it didn't have a long enough bearing area, but it ended up being one of the most successful. It too, was cut with a single flute cutter like the one in the first picture.
    Hope this helps!
    Precision in the wrong place is only a placebo.

  2. #62
    Longwood
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    [QUOTE=goodsteel;1579073]Dang! no wonder my ears were burning!
    I dont know if I can help, but I can tell you that I tried using a burr like the one in the photo above. No good.

    Hope this helps!
    [QUOTE]


    Thanks for coming by Goodsteel.
    Also thanks for the lengthy explanation.

  3. #63
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Have you tried that Rick?

    I won't disagree that if everything is right and there is a very slight taper to the cavity the boolit should drop out.

    Most of mine do with very little help but occasionally they do not. What then?

    It is not hard to make an ejector pin and these bored/reamed solid moulds are heaps faster to make that split moulds so the little extra work is not really an issue, and if the boolit drops out without help then no extra work casting either.

    Another use for the ejector pin is to make HP boolits.

    These moulds aren't likely to replace split mould but they do have their uses.

    Longbow

  4. #64
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    ...............DoctorBill, I've somewhat rapidly read through this thread. You're doing some of the stuff I did years back. My first 'Lathe' was a 3/8" VSR drill motor clamped in a bench vise. My lathe tools were files and a Dremel to mangle whatever I had spinning into a shape theat looked as close ot what I wanted as possible. I kind of sat up when you mentioned getting one of the 7" lathes, and decided not to.

    If I may, do a web serch simply typing in 7" lathe. ANY lathe is MILES ahead of no lathe, and as you'll find, the small 7" machines are capable of real work. Maybe you know but buying the basic lathe is kind of like buying a horse. The real expense comes after that! But thank heavens you don't have to buy it all at once, and most new lathe owners spend considerable time making their own tools to use with/on the lathe. After purchasing the basic lathe you'll eventually NEED a 4 jaw chuck, a milling attachment, a steady, a QC toolpost and more tool holders. I've heard it said that lathe manufacturers should just give anyone wanting a lathe one, as they'll make their profit in additional tooling! That's naturally simplistic but the example is valid.

    With one of those 7" machines you'll be able to make your own boolit size dies, moulds, casemouth expanders, nose punches, bump (boolit expanding) dies, pres mounted swage dies, and any number of other needfull doo-dads. By simply being able to spin the workpiece in a chuck or on a faceplate, and having X, Y, and Z axes feeds for the tools, most anything within the capacity of the machine is possible.

    Maybe I can post some photo's in addition to those from others that might be helpfull, and maybe ignite a burning desire to aquire one of those ubiquitous 7" lathes instead of a $400 muzzle loader.



    LEFT: These are the "D" reamers previously mentioned, AKA "Half drills" and "Half Round drills". They're ferociously expensive, but by watching E-Bay you can pick up useable sizes at great savings now and then. These are 23/64 (.3594) and MSC lists them USA made @ $32.47 per each. On E-Bay the seller had 3 pkgs of 6, made by PTD for $23/pkg. I bought all 3 for $60, a $9 discount and free shipping. RIGHT: A kind of "D" bit, but in this case a 1/4" drill blank ground into a single edge form tool.



    LEFT:I make custom lube-size dies and Lee type push through dies. When shipping a die I supply a 'Proof Slug' from the die to prove it sizes the size asked for. I was needing some larger OD slugs (NOT bullets) for proofing. RIGHT: This was done in the milling machine, but there is no reason the work couldn't have spun on a face plate or chuck with the tool in a toolholder on the lathe's compound. The mould blocks are simply .750" x 1.5" extruded 6061 aluminum cut and paired without venting.



    LEFT: For spinning the work in the lathe one way is the faceplate. In this case the mould was setup in a toolmaker's vise as the cavities had no dimensions in any relation to the outside of the blocks, so the blocks were shimmed and indicated in the vise, and then the whole shebang was bolted to the faceplate. Another way to create/bore a mould on the faceplate is to clamp the blocks between a pair of precision ground (inexpensive) angle plates. RIGHT: Another way to make a mould on the lathe is via the 4 jaw chuck. Not 'making this mould in the photo but indicateing a cavity to be hollowpointed, but you can bore the cavity just as simply.



    LEFT: So let's pretend we're going to make a mould with the lathe in a 4 jaw (I don't have any photo's of that). You can hold squre stuff in a 4 jaw. In this case I'm making a swage die. Your mould blocks have been cut & paired. Alignment pins in place and indicated in the chuck, (or on a faceplate) and in the photo you've been step drilling. RIGHT: Now you're going to form the cavity. You've ground yourself a 'Form' tool.



    LEFT: a Ho-Made kind of "D" reamer, form tool, or 'Spoon'. A single edge cutting, or realisticly a scraping tool. RIGHT: You've step drilled close to size and the form tool only makes light cuts of a couple thousandths each time. You have to go slow forming the ogive. Since you're doing that you're NOT creating chips, but instead a metallic kind of mud!
    Father Grand Caster watches over you my brother. Go now and pour yourself a hot one. May the Sacred Silver Stream be with you always

    Proud former Shooters.Com Cast Bullet alumnus and plank owner.

    "The Republic can survive a Barack Obama, who is, after all, merely a fool. It is less likely to survive a multitude of fools such as those who made him their president."

    Shrink the State End the Fed Balance the budget Make a profit Leave an inheritance

  5. #65
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    LEFT: Drawing of the form tool ground from a drill blank. RIGHT: You can also create tools from rectangular HSS blanks. For larger bores they're easier to grind but are more susceptable to chatter due to their relative thinness, so you have to watch the 'Stickout' and go easy. They're pretty reasonably priced.



    LEFT: So here's the result from the mould we made (actually swaged) but the result would have the same shape. RIGHT: All dresssed up and ready to go uptown



    LEFT: This is a Bump die. Just used to slightly reform a cast boolit to a slightly larger OD, and used in a regular reloading press. Totally made in the lathe. RIGHT: The ejector rod is manual. The shoulder on the base of the ejector rod rides a bore in the die body. It's upward movement is stopped by the base of the nut that's threaded into the top of the die body. Besides bumping you may also form a HP by screwing the stop nut down deeper into the die body. To eject the slug you simply thump the rod with a suitable tool, like a rawhide or plastic thumper You can make all this junk, and more on a 7" lathe. Cut threads, bore, turn, form, etc & etc. Just think how much LESS TV you'll be watching ................ and that's a GOOD thing!

    ..................Buckshot
    Last edited by Buckshot; 02-07-2012 at 04:47 AM.
    Father Grand Caster watches over you my brother. Go now and pour yourself a hot one. May the Sacred Silver Stream be with you always

    Proud former Shooters.Com Cast Bullet alumnus and plank owner.

    "The Republic can survive a Barack Obama, who is, after all, merely a fool. It is less likely to survive a multitude of fools such as those who made him their president."

    Shrink the State End the Fed Balance the budget Make a profit Leave an inheritance

  6. #66
    Boolit Master
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    Buckshot - OMG - you do some fantastic work !

    I am so envious of you having all that nice equipment
    and knowledge of how to use it !

    Much of your tools and products shown have that Golden Color.

    Is that a "Nitride" coating on them ?

    I am going to call a local Machine Tool Store to see if they have 7/16" Drill Blanks.
    They told me a while back (when I bought a 1/8" Drill Rod) that they
    don't carry much rods anymore - no call for them. Hmmmm.

    No got's...This town I live in (Spokane, WA) is like living in some Ghost Town or in a cavern.
    No one has squat ! You'd think I live in Uzbekistan's Mountains....

    I'll have to mail order some rod from ENCO. Typical for Spokane.

    Thought I'd have a go at making a D-Bit or cutting tool with my 6" bench grinder.
    I want to make a D-Bit for a 0.438" bullet with a nice nose shape -
    sort of "Tree Radius".

    Scary....I'm 69 and can't see well w/o glasses and starting to have shaky hands.

    Getting old like this really pisses me off !

    DoctorBill
    Last edited by DoctorBill; 02-07-2012 at 01:52 PM.
    I would just like to ask -
    WHOM does our Current Government represent, anyway ? !


    It sure as Heck doesn't represent ME ! How about you ?
    Seems to be just a Big Mafia run by the current set of criminals in office.
    Have we EVER been this close to losing our Country ? !

  7. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by longbow View Post

    Have you tried that Rick?

    I won't disagree that if everything is right and there is a very slight taper to the cavity the boolit should drop out.

    Most of mine do with very little help but occasionally they do not. What then?

    It is not hard to make an ejector pin and these bored/reamed solid moulds are heaps faster to make that split moulds so the little extra work is not really an issue, and if the boolit drops out without help then no extra work casting either.

    Another use for the ejector pin is to make HP boolits.

    These moulds aren't likely to replace split mould but they do have their uses.

    Longbow

    Longbow:

    I have, and they work very well. The shrinkage factor for pure Pb is approximately 1%, so a 0.500" diameter boolit would shrink almost 0.005" thou. That is more than enough for the boolit to drop from the cavity.

    Interior finish and shape is definately a major factor. If they don't fall out of the mould, a simple tap is usually all it takes to release the boolit.

    RRR
    "I Make the part.............................that makes the parts"

    Looking for Bullet Mould Handles, Heavy Duty Replacement Sprue Plates, Adjustable Paper Patch Bullet Moulds? Check here:http://www.kal.castpics.net/

    My Feedback!

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  8. #68
    Boolit Master
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    RRR - What is the shrinkage factor for wheel weight metal ?

    My bullets tend to fall out also, if I flame the cavity with carbon.
    As the carbon wears off, they don't come out so easily.

    I cannot reflame the cavity very well once the mold is hot
    and I don't like letting it cool off, since the bullets form so well
    when the mold is good and hot.

    The bullets form a pretty good vacuum in the cavity.
    You can feel it if you grasp the slug to pull it out (with long forceps).

    Perhaps my next mold will be as perfect as yours.....who knows ?

    DoctorBill
    Last edited by DoctorBill; 02-07-2012 at 09:54 PM.
    I would just like to ask -
    WHOM does our Current Government represent, anyway ? !


    It sure as Heck doesn't represent ME ! How about you ?
    Seems to be just a Big Mafia run by the current set of criminals in office.
    Have we EVER been this close to losing our Country ? !

  9. #69
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Now that Buckshot has displayed his beautiful work I will be embarrassed to show you mine. However, once I get the photos found I will post them.

    I was planning to look last night but wound up doing furnace repairs.

    I think by now the D bit is pretty well demonstrated. Again Buckshot has done a better job than I could of showing the details.

    Most of my moulds are bored straight or sometimes stepped for two diameter and either way with a full diameter sliding nose form. I use a D "reamer" for the cavity (straight or stepped) and a form tool for the nose (as Buckshot shows). That makes for ejector and nose form which allows different nose profiles simply by replacing the nose form and also adjustable weight by adjusting the depth of the nose form.

    While the boolits may (and should) drop freely from the cavity, I am a belt and suspenders kind of guy. I will add the ejector in one form or another just in case. I have on occasion had stickers especially if I get things too hot.

    Longbow

  10. #70
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    ................DoctorBill, thank you for the compliment. I appreciate it but the tools I have are NOT exceptional by any means. I've never seen Red River Rick's machines but I have seen the stuff he's made, so I have an idea. My lathe is a '81 vintage 11" Logan, with the little quirks and issues a 30 some plus year old machine will have. By an unexpected occurance I was able to buy a new Chinese made 9x42 Bridgeport clone turret mill. I've never taken a machining class in my entire 'Put together'.

    Everything I've learned has been from reading, doing, and asking questions, and that's pretty much been over the past 6 years. There is a LOT of simple common sense involved. I haven't made a mistake yet, but I HAVE created a lot of parts for stuff that hasn't been invented yet . Even mistakes are learning processes, like you will not have success getting UNDER a hard chromed surface with HSS . That is unless you're trying to turn the HSS tool blue and make it squeal. Also, when you have the QC box levers in the wrong position you'll know why they NEVER use a bolt threaded 1/4 - 10

    The only thing I showed doing that couldn't have been done on a 7" lathe is that bump die, as the 7" machines don't have a large enough hole through the spindle. However a shorter one could have been held in the smaller lathe's chuck.

    Kinda funny, speaking of lathes and not knowing anything is my cousin's husband. He owns his own company that does field repair work on construction equipment and such stuff. I've done a few machining jobs for him. One day he called and said he'd bought a used lathe. I was excited and asked what make it was. He didn't know, and I'm thinking engine lathes so start naming off South Bend, Logan, Sheldon, & etc, and he keeps saying no, no, no. Then after a bit he says it's a Logan. Yeah, sounds like Logan he says and he adds it's about as tall as he is! Well I said it ain't no Logan then.

    About a week later I was up in his neck of the woods so swung by his place. No one answered the front door so I drove out back. He'd said it was tarped and sitting on his 3 axle flatbed. As soon as I saw it I KNEW it wasn't a Logan, or a Southbend, or ANYTHING a home shop guy would have in his garage. American Pacemaker maybe?? I peeled up the side of the tarp and here's this monstrous old Gisholt turret lathe It had an electric motor about as big around as a 35 gallon drum and maybe 5 belts running up to the headstock spindle.

    On the foor of the trailer, under and all around this honker are 5 gallon buckets full of jaws and bolts, bits, clamping stuff and pieces of turret tooling. Plus several BIG chucks and faceplates about the size of manhole covers. I don't know what it was doing before he got it, but I knew what it did shortly after it had been born! On the side of the headstock was a rivited on plate stating it was the property of the United States Navy Brisbane, CA ordnance facility and dated 1943, plus as added info it stated it was "War Finished" Due to the war effort and the need for manufacturing, companies making machines like this were in a 'Hurry Up' situation. They were very concerned about and proud of their machines. They wanted to make sure people knew that these didn't have the same amount of care and finish (appearance) as normal, so several companies marked them as such. Anyway I thought it was funny.

    ..................Buckshot
    Father Grand Caster watches over you my brother. Go now and pour yourself a hot one. May the Sacred Silver Stream be with you always

    Proud former Shooters.Com Cast Bullet alumnus and plank owner.

    "The Republic can survive a Barack Obama, who is, after all, merely a fool. It is less likely to survive a multitude of fools such as those who made him their president."

    Shrink the State End the Fed Balance the budget Make a profit Leave an inheritance

  11. #71
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Well Buckshot is right, you dont need specialized tooling to do what you need to do. You just need to be able to get something spinning, and most machines, even the ratted out ones, are accurate enough for most operations. The knowledge of how to use those machines....is another matter! I had forgotten about the vice on the face-plate trick and I'm glad I saw it here, that will be just the thing for modifying a mold in the lathe. (by the way, to me "1980's vintage" is practically new!)
    Buckshot, I enjoyed you story there at the end. My lathe is about 8' long with a 17" swing and it was cut out of the side of a battle-ship. Seriously, they had to cut a hole through the side of the ship connecting to one of the sub-levels above the waterline and slid my lathe and several other pieces of equipment out of the side of the ship! My lathe is 1950's vintage. It is amazing the quality that the old machines have. The older they are, the better they used to be. I was lucky enough to be able get this one as it's been gently used over its long life. I had lots of help to get it into the garage and wired up.

    I'm working out of a single car garage so things are a little cramped but its worth it!
    This machine is a real pleasure to work with. All of the levers can be engaged with fingertip pressure and they are arranged in a way that makes it easy to manipulate them, and with a 17" faceplate there isn't much I can't swing.
    I am hoping to be able to get a milling machine as soon as we do the taxes. All of the milling operations I have done so far, have been done on borrowed equipment from work, so its been a hurry hurry rush rush job every time. If I can get a mill in the garage, then I can settle down and do some real work.
    By the way, did you end up sliding that sweet turret lathe into the shop or what?
    Last edited by MBTcustom; 02-08-2012 at 07:44 AM.
    Precision in the wrong place is only a placebo.

  12. #72
    In Remembrance
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    Quote Originally Posted by Buckshot View Post
    I've never seen Red River Rick's machines but I have seen the stuff he's made, so I have an idea.
    I'm pretty sure I have an understanding of Rick's setup.

    He has this big cable that runs from his shop to his house. On the end of that cable is attached an extra-fancy football helmet.

    I send him an email with a description ... or a drawing ... of a new item, and he reads the email while wearing the helmet.

    Thirty minutes later, Rick walks out to the shop to find the CNC tooling (Concentrate-N-Create) has made exactly what was in the email.

    CM
    Last edited by montana_charlie; 02-08-2012 at 02:12 PM.
    Retired...TWICE. Now just raisin' cows and livin' on borrowed time.

  13. #73
    Boolit Master
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    You guys and my machinist friend are driving me crazy !

    All I wanted to do is make a couple of bullet molds !

    So all you guys show me those beautiful molds you are making on your Lathes.....
    my friend thinks I should buy a lathe....it would be good for me !

    Now I have the obsessive hots to buy a small lathe for $400....with a 20% off coupon...
    http://www.harborfreight.com/7-inch-...the-93212.html

    But wait !

    For $1,000 dollars, I can buy a MUCH MUCH better lathe !
    http://www.grizzly.com/products/9-x-...ch-Lathe/G4000
    Just pay the extra shipping and handling....

    I am going bonkers....I have a tooth that broke and I need a cap...

    But - now I am comparing paying $1,500 for a tooth cap versus buying
    a LATHE (!!!) for $1,000 !

    Which one should I do ? !

    I am seriously considering going around looking like some toothless Hill Billy

    so that I can have a Lathe that I really don't need...or do I ?

    If I was a politician, I'd go and buy one immediately - with your money !

    All because I wanted to make a couple bullet molds......God Help Me !

    DoctorBill !
    Last edited by DoctorBill; 02-08-2012 at 11:11 PM.
    I would just like to ask -
    WHOM does our Current Government represent, anyway ? !


    It sure as Heck doesn't represent ME ! How about you ?
    Seems to be just a Big Mafia run by the current set of criminals in office.
    Have we EVER been this close to losing our Country ? !

  14. #74
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    ............Bill, in all seriousness look at what you're going to be doing. Sure it's nice to have a big lathe (and big is subjective). For the stuff you're wanting to make the 7" machine would be just fine. Heck, you could set my 11" Logan on the bed of Goodsteel's lathe and STILL have some room! There's ALWAYS a bigger and better one out there to lust after.

    I'll make you a promise. You get yourself a 7" lathe and a reprint of South Bend's book, "How to Run a Lathe" which is very inexpensive and a wealth of info, and I'll scrape together a care package of odds and ends for ya, and send it your way!

    Goodsteel, so far as I know that Gisholt is still sitting on his trailer. He has a small forklift on his property, but no way would it do the job. I'd hesitate to even guess what that turret lathe weighs. Does your LeBlond have the replaceable hardened steel sideways?

    ................Buckshot
    Father Grand Caster watches over you my brother. Go now and pour yourself a hot one. May the Sacred Silver Stream be with you always

    Proud former Shooters.Com Cast Bullet alumnus and plank owner.

    "The Republic can survive a Barack Obama, who is, after all, merely a fool. It is less likely to survive a multitude of fools such as those who made him their president."

    Shrink the State End the Fed Balance the budget Make a profit Leave an inheritance

  15. #75
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Does your LeBlond have the replaceable hardened steel sideways?
    Yes. Of course, "replaceable" might not be the best word to describe them. Removable is more like it, but I would never do that. I need to get a live center for this puppy. I've been working around it but its becoming more and more indispensable.
    I am going to spring for a mill with the tax return money. I just have to find one that will do for my purposes for a price I can afford. I'm hoping I can find something in the 2k$ range.
    Just think how much LESS TV you'll be watching ................ and that's a GOOD thing!
    This is funny, I dont have TV hooked up in my house. I haven't for the last six years since I got married. Just agreed with the wife that its a waste of time and money any way you slice it. Well, the guys at work kept saying that I need to watch these shows, "Top shot" and "sons of guns" and "ultimate marksmen" blah blah blah. They said I would realy enjoy those shows. I told them: "Fellas, fellas, You know I dont have time for all those shows. I'm too busy doing it for real!"
    Seriously, the average person probably watches at least an hour of TV every night. over the course of a week thats 7 hours.
    How many rounds can you reload in seven hours?
    How many boolits can you cast in seven hours?
    If I had a mill at the house I could almost remake my rockchucker press in that amount of time. All of the molds that I posted above, had time restrictions on them because I was using the mill at work to build them. I made each one, and all the parts and the cutter in one hour. So if I had a mill at the house, I could have five new molds to try every weekend..... kind of makes you think.

    Getting back to the original thread (sorry to hijack) I want to try making a cylindrical mold like the OP was doing. It would be so easy to make a HP PP mold that way! I like the idea of being able to play with the length of the boolit without building a whole new mold. Once you find the sweet spot, just build a mold to duplicate it a bo-zillion times. Also, if you are into casting soft nose boolits, you could just adjust the length to its shortest possible setting and cast up a bunch of soft noses. Then back it off to its original setting and fill 'er up with hard lead. Too easy.
    Good idea's fellers!
    Precision in the wrong place is only a placebo.

  16. #76
    Longwood
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    Quote Originally Posted by goodsteel View Post

    Getting back to the original thread (sorry to hijack) I want to try making a cylindrical mold like the OP was doing. It would be so easy to make a HP PP mold that way! I like the idea of being able to play with the length of the boolit without building a whole new mold. Once you find the sweet spot, just build a mold to duplicate it a bo-zillion times. Also, if you are into casting soft nose boolits, you could just adjust the length to its shortest possible setting and cast up a bunch of soft noses. Then back it off to its original setting and fill 'er up with hard lead. Too easy.
    Good idea's fellers!
    I made my first attempt at a mold 'WITH' a sprue cutter.
    The later ones, I cast bullets with before installing the plate.
    I made a small split sleeve (collet) that fit the bullets snugly so I can chuck them in the lathe too machine off the sprue until I decide on the length/weight I want the bullets.

  17. #77
    Longwood
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    Quote Originally Posted by Buckshot View Post

    I'll make you a promise. You get yourself a 7" lathe and a reprint of South Bend's book, "How to Run a Lathe" which is very inexpensive and a wealth of info, and I'll scrape together a care package of odds and ends for ya, and send it your way!


    ................Buckshot
    Make a list Buckshot.
    I may be able to help wth that.

  18. #78
    Boolit Master nanuk's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DoctorBill View Post
    I am going bonkers....I have a tooth that broke and I need a cap...

    Which one should I do ?

    DoctorBill !
    DrB

    I'd get 'em all pulled.... Mine hurt so bad all the time, I'll NEVER get another crown, and doubt I'll get a filling... just yank 'em.... sooner the better for me.

    (I'll just have to bring along a buddy to chew my steak for me in moose camp)

  19. #79
    Boolit Master
    DoctorBill's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    E WA State
    Posts
    1,031
    Now I'm wondering if obtaining a LARGE Floor Drill Press isn't a better idea ?
    http://www.harborfreight.com/16-spee...ess-43389.html

    I bought a cross vice from Harbor Freight.
    http://www.harborfreight.com/6-inch-...ise-32997.html

    Now - what if I bolt that "Cross Vice" to the LARGE adjustable table and
    use the Drill Chuck like a small Milling Machine ?

    I could Drill, Bore and slowly Mill objects made of Aluminum - couldn't I ?

    The Milling I could do with a milling bit and feeding the object into the bit
    by rotating the vise feed....goes in two directions.

    Being a HACK AMATEUR and NOT KNOWING SQUAT, I am of the impression that
    a Milling Machine would do ME more good for making molds than a Lathe.

    Harbor Freight sells this small milling machine....for the same price as the small lathe.
    http://www.harborfreight.com/two-spe...ine-44991.html
    Read the Customer Comments of this.
    They have a $1200 larger machine....always more money........

    I'm thinking maybe it would be better for me if the work does not spin, but the
    tool does. I could mill straight sides, bore holes and cavities all under CONTROL.

    What do you all think of THAT ?

    DoctorBill
    Last edited by DoctorBill; 02-09-2012 at 09:23 PM.
    I would just like to ask -
    WHOM does our Current Government represent, anyway ? !


    It sure as Heck doesn't represent ME ! How about you ?
    Seems to be just a Big Mafia run by the current set of criminals in office.
    Have we EVER been this close to losing our Country ? !

  20. #80
    Boolit Master nanuk's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Saskatchewan, Canada
    Posts
    3,129
    DrB: a vertical mill can drill, but a vertical drill mills poorly... that is what I've been told, as the quill tolerances and strength are not up to the task

    but I have been on the lookout for a big floor drill to try the same thing, as there is no way on God's green earth I can afford a vertical mill

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