Switch Barrel Mauser?

[gnoahhh]

Another thing to consider is the bedding of the barrels in the forearm. Using two barrels with the exact same contour makes it easier. Not such a big deal if one is free-floating them, but what if one needs a pressure pad out near the tip for best accuracy and the other one doesn't?

[leadman]

I probably won't make this a switch barrel gun now that I have to shim the feed area of the receiver for the 7.62 X 39, unless I install a 22 or 6mm PPC barrels. These would be handload only as factory is too hot for a '93.

I have a left hand Savage bolt gun that I can make a switch barrel much easier than this gun.

Or I could buy a new T/C Dimension rifle. Do they come in left hand?

As far as torque, 100 pounds is not much for threads this size. When I was working as a diesel mechanic 300 pounds on main and head bolts was the norm. Some head bolts were #480.

One of the benchrest guys here can change a barrel on his rifle in a matter of minutes with a rubber strap wrench, so there is not much torque involved.

[flounderman]

you can probably build up the rails with jb weld if you get them degreased. seen some new product jb makes. guy stuck his door mirror back on with it. said the stuff is the real deal.

[B R Shooter]

One very reputable source for the barrel torque issue is Harold Vaughn's book, Rifle Accuracy Facts. Every top benchrest gunsmith I know and have talked to agrees with the need for a decent torque for top accuracy.

Yes, you can change barrels in just a few minutes, I've done it between relays!

[felix]

Enough to make the barreled-action act as a unit in creating consistent vibes. Absolutely no more torque required. Verify with transducers when in doubt. Attatching the works, including scope, to the stock is as important. Glue-ins tend to eliminate the torque question for this instance. ... felix

[B R Shooter]

Enough to make the barreled-action act as a unit in creating consistent vibes. Absolutely no more torque required. Verify with transducers when in doubt. Attatching the works, including scope, to the stock is as important. Glue-ins tend to eliminate the torque question for this instance. ... felix

"Enough to make the barreled-action act as a unit in creating consistent vibes. Absolutely no more torque required." And what value of torque would that be? 50, 75, 100 foot pounds? Have you read how extensive the testing was done in Vaughn's book?

"Attatching the works, including scope, to the stock is as important. " Attaching the scope to the stock?

"Glue-ins tend to eliminate the torque question for this instance." Are you saying a glue in eliminates the need to torque a barrel?

Glue ins are used in 99% of the benchrest guns today. The need to torque a barrel is just as important in these guns as it is in a hunting gun.

[felix]

Have you read how extensive the testing was done in Vaughn's book? Ans: No, Need to know how the "threads" are machined to synthesize a valid conclusion.

Attaching the scope to the stock? Now, that idea of yours would be something to investigate for pure accuracy systems. Some black guns are leaning into that realm, aren't they? Consider the computerized sighting systems, if and when they are allowed in BR. My sentence as it stands should have included parentheses instead of commas. My bad.

Are you saying a glue in eliminates the need to torque a barrel? No. Again, my bad. My sentence as it stands should have made the "instance" more pointed into the direction of attaching the stock to the action via nuts and bolts.

Something to keep in mind, however, is that truss systems have been the principal technique to engineer out vibes, or at least to have them cancel each other within a cantilever design.

... felix

[B R Shooter]

As another point of reference, do a search for "Varmint Al". He has done very extensive barrel vibration testing.

[leadman]

I do know when a barrel comes loose, as one I had a gunsmith install did when shooting the group size changed very little until I noticed the bulge on the base of the case. I turned the barrel back in tight by hand and continued shooting for a few more rounds with no problems. Not saying that was an ideal situation, far from it.

I have epoxied the shims in place on the receiver and it feeds great from the right side, not so well from the left side. Didn't see that that shim had pulled away just a bit on the left side so will have to redo that.

I'm debating which way I want to go to get the extractor to hold the case after it is out of the chamber. After the case is out it drops off the front of the bolt because the extractor is not long enough to hold the case to the far side of the bolt face. I have ground down the areas that ride on the side of the bolt some and it is better but am about out of material I can remove before the extractor hits the locking lug.
I have 2 extractors to play with so may try welding up one of the claws and grinding it to fit. Would rather weld on the extractor than the bolt face.
Any ideas??

[MBTcustom]

That sounds like a good idea, would you consider posting some pictures? some of this would be much easier to visualize with a photograph.

[leadman]

Well, have not gotten around to working on the Mauser. Instead been catching the heck out of crappies! Been a very good spring for us, 3 trips of 5 or 6 days each, relaxing, fishing, doing nothing. Caught 300 fish with most being crappies. Before someone gets excited there is no closed season or limit here in Az on them. And we eat everything we keep. Enough on the fishing.
Had to pull the rear springs off the motor home today and will take them to be repaired. The rubber bushings are toast. Extremely hard and large chunks coming out of them.

Been thinking on what to do with the extractor on the Mauser and decided I may heat the claw until it is red and do a little hammering on it to make it long enough to grab the case. Not sure what it will do to the temper but I have 2 extractors so I guess I will find out.

[MBTcustom]

Be sure it is properly supported when you go to beating on it! Usually there is a very specific radius cut on the inside of the extractor arm. You dont want to get that flattened out or its going to look like dookie and the claw will never be able to reach far enough around the face of the bolt to grab the case rim. If you need help with a round piece of steel to use for an anvil, I can certainly hook you up in short order.

[leadman]

I was thinking on using one of my chisels clamped in a vise and use the head ground to fit the bend in the extractor. I will then use a flat punch that is for an air hammer to place against the face of the claw so I don't end with hammer marks in the face. I just want to extend the reach of the claw and do hope to not distort it.

Thanks for the offer of the steel.

But today I took the springs from the motor home in and should have them back this afternoon. Have to save some energy up to be able to work in the 102' heat anticipated for today.

[FrankG]

I used my wirefeed welder to add a bead to lip of claw and reshaped to grip the lil rusky cartridge . I used a piece of brass to back it while doing the build up weld.
I also made a block from aluminum to add in back of mag box , shortened follower front and rear along with clipping spring length top and bottom legs to fit the modded follower.

[leadman]

I had heated the claw on one extractor and peened it so it gripped the cartridge case. It worked but since I did not reharden it it bends easily.
Midway has a blank ectractor for a 96 Swedish but don't know for sure it will work on my 93. I posted in the military rifle section asking for the extractor dimensions for the 96.

I did shoot it today with Tula factory ammo. The SP ammo was ok, but the second shot of the HP ammo was not. The bolt would not open until I used a deadblow hammer at home. The velocity of the 123gr bullet was almost 2,600 fps! Normal is less than 2,400 fps. The primer was flattened so much it was starting to go between the case head and the bolt face.

I've decided to try some American ammo and also load my own. I had wanted this rifle for shooting the cheap ammo when I hurt to much to load my own. Do not want to run the risk of blowing the gun up though.

[bob208]

i saw a picture of a mauser 98 take down rifle.also seen some 03's made the same way the stock is cut offat the reciver ring a steel plate added to the front recoil lug the forarm is treated much like a winchester takedown rifle. that work done it would not be hard to make up new frontends in other calibers much like take down winchester 94 and 95"s

[leftiye]

As for that feeding problem with 7.62X39, Take a look at shortening the follower from the REAR, and put a block in the rear of the magazine box. This will in effect make the feed rails narrower because the ctgs will be dealing with the front of the magazine where the rails are narrower.

[Multigunner]

The large ring Mauser was a development of a quick detachable barrel take down rifle designed in 1896. They had found that small ring actions were not a good platform for the interupted thread QD barrel set up, the large ring and shank was to provide more meat to the system. They then figured this large ring without the interupted thread would provide a better platform for the higher pressure loadings of the newer military cartridges like the 7.92.

[joatmon]

The 96 extractor is long enough for the ruski convertion!
Aaron