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Thread: Recoil Pad " 101"

  1. #21
    Boolit Master
    Ben's Avatar
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    You are very generous with your words....THANKS !

    Ben

  2. #22
    Boolit Master melter68's Avatar
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    Nice thread, good work, thanks for sharing, i like to add a silver/steel plate inbetween the stock end and new recoil pad

  3. #23
    Boolit Bub
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    I've been looking at the different jigs available for this. Is everyone using a jig or is anyone freehanding?

  4. #24
    Boolit Master Bren R.'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by poisonivie View Post
    I've been looking at the different jigs available for this. Is everyone using a jig or is anyone freehanding?
    I do them "free hand" but with various stops, cradles, supports and the like, I don't just belly up to the sander.

    Bren R.

  5. #25
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Clark View Post
    10 years ago I was grinding to fit with a belt sander and using .005" thick masking tape as the safety margin to keep from sanding the stock.

    Now I have 10 rifles with the largest grind to fit Limbsaver, but I do not grind it. I leave it large for more area.

    I build 2 or 3 rifles a year, and in 2012 they will all have large Limbsaver grind to fit pads that I do not grind.


    Sometimes the reveal is covered with a EAGLE SHOOTER'S STOCK PACK (RIGHT-HANDED), WOODLAND CAMO 350002


    Sometimes with the cheaper and easier to get Allen buttstock pouch.

    And sometimes not at all. There is a guy who shoots a lot of elephants and give me grief about it. I say form follows function and fashion will follow later.
    I have one REALLY nasty recoiling rifle I did that way. As you said form follows function.

    All the rest are made to fit the stock.

    Great tutorial Ben!

  6. #26
    Boolit Bub

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    I have ground a few recoil pads for Encore stocks using a 4" belt sander, starting with 80 grit sand paper, then 120 grit. I scribe a line as previously mentioned. When it is ground to the scribe line, I put it in the freezer for a few hours, take it out and spray it with silcone and then hand sand it with real fine sand paper.

  7. #27
    Boolit Man La Dano's Avatar
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    Thanx for the tips here. I've done a few with masking tape and a belt sander. Not perfect by far, this will surely help me in the future.


    Thanx

  8. #28
    Boolit Man DW475's Avatar
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    Good info. Thanks for sharing.

  9. #29
    Boolit Buddy
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    I like to use the oscillating belt sander by Ridgid. This is a combination belt and spindle sander, and both of them oscillate, which is nice to keep the belt cleaner as you work on grinding down the pads. I make sure I have enough light (I'll have to try the idea of chalking the scribe line), and going slow as I grind. I was installing a gel type recoil pads on the kids trap guns when I was coaching scholastic trap kids, because it helped a the ones who were very sensitive to recoil.

  10. #30
    Boolit Master Garyshome's Avatar
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    Nice job, thanks for the post

  11. #31
    Boolit Master
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    For a cheap light recoil pad I glue a piece of a shower shoe sole to the butt. Works ok and comes in colors.
    Closest recorded range Chrony kill (3 feet with witnesses)

  12. #32
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    I just finished one on an 1100. I grind by hand to the line because I will not pay for the jig when I do so few. I have to finish grind on the stock.
    Wood must be cut from the stock to keep pull length. I worked out a way with a table saw sled and a fine tooth blade to cut perfectly flat and clean. Nothing better then a table saw.
    I made a jig to keep the base at right angles to the blade.Attachment 155832
    It can be adjusted to raise and lower the front.

  13. #33
    PAPERPATCH MASTER


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    I have done a few for my own rifle builds. The most trouble I have is getting the toe angle on the pad right.Robert

  14. #34
    Boolit Bub
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    I use a 2"x28" vertical belt sander, no jig, and usually grind with the pad on. I start with a couple of layers of blue tape, then a couple layers of green tape, then white masking tape. 120 grit through the white tape, then 180 through the green tape, then 220 to the last layer of blue tape. then finish with 300 grit. I also use WD40 as a lubricant while grinding; a bit messy, but a smoother job overall. Because of a long LOP,(14 3/4") usually I don't need to shorten the stock. Saves me a bit of work...biggest problem is finding belts to fit. Anyone know where to buy belt adhesive and a cutter, for making belts?

    Reo
    It is up to us to maintain that which so many have fought and died to gain

  15. #35
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    I can't even find disk adhesive anymore. I have disks with none on them and can't find disks to fit either. I used to get Sears adhesive but the stores don't know what I am talking about. It was a white glue that dried sticky.
    What do you guys use?

  16. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by 44man View Post
    I can't even find disk adhesive anymore. I have disks with none on them and can't find disks to fit either. I used to get Sears adhesive but the stores don't know what I am talking about. It was a white glue that dried sticky.
    What do you guys use?
    You might try one of the general purpose Scotch spray glues. I find Scotch 77 to be too permanent for sanding discs so would go for the craft grade stuff.

    I made a copy of the Brownell's jig for about $5.00 and hung it on a fishing swivel, based on their published dimensions. I imagine it works as well as the high priced version. I started with a 1" bench belt sander but recently upgraded to a 3" model. I found lots of finer grit belts on Amazon.

    David
    Sometimes life taps you on the shoulder and reminds you it's a one way street. Jim Morris

  17. #37
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    I use a Grizzly 10" disk/belt sander, one of my wood working tools. I have to leave the belt off unless I need it, seems to run off no matter how I adjust it. It is hard to see the edge of the disk with the hood around it.
    I did better with a disk on my radial saw.
    I have such a good table saw with the Ridged I put the radial saw in the barn, hardly use it except for rough stuff, not the best for furniture. I actually hate the thing.
    I made every jig for the table saw so I can make anything. Cutting the back of a stock is easy now.
    No splinters and a perfect, flat cut.
    Still grinding rubber is a chore and nothing done by hand works.

  18. #38
    Boolit Master Sur-shot's Avatar
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    I have a whole box full of those Limbsaver pads that went bad, rubber turned to goo, then saw them at the shot show they told me to return them, which I did. The replacements promptly turned to goo also. My question to you Ben, has the Limbsaver bunch finally got their rubber formula straightened out? I have been buying Packmeyers but I do like the Limbsavers when they act right.

    I use an osculating, horizontal belt sander with a jig and cut the pad on the stock then if necessary I refinish the area as necessary. It is a little slower but gives a perfect, pad to wood fit every time.

    I wonder if the buffing wheel glue would work for a belt glue.
    Ed
    "Let us speak courteously, fairly, and keep ourselves armed and ready."
    Teddy Roosevelt, May 13, 1903

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check