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Thread: SBH Forcing Cone Erosion

  1. #21
    Boolit Master
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    Either feeler gauges or pad the barrel with leather in a vise and check with dial indicator, which how I most often do mine.

  2. #22
    Boolit Master S.R.Custom's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by badbobgerman View Post
    post 12 .fecmech is that a crack around the forcing cone ? looks like its half- way around the barrel
    forcing cone .. check it before shooting it anymore ..
    No, that's the rough, exposed edge of the thread in the receiver where the barrel screws through. It looks worse than it is due to the accumulation of blast crud.


    Quote Originally Posted by Iron Mike Golf View Post
    Another powder to try might be IMR 4227.
    Indeed. The 4227 powders are single base, and burn cooler as a result. The result is less erosion. A side benefit is less fouling and/or leading w/ cast bullets.
    “If your only tool is a hammer, then all your problems start to look like people who need to be beaten with a hammer.”

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Iron Mike Golf View Post
    You might consider a heavier bullet, too.

    Another powder to try might be IMR 4227.
    4227's scare me in the .44.
    I tried them at first when I shot IHMSA because everyone was using it. I found it super accurate if shot slow and gun kept cold. Not so when the gun got hot from shooting or the sun. Pressures and velocity would climb fast.
    It was wonderful in the .357 max but never goes in my .44's again.
    296 never changed even when the gun was hot.

  4. #24
    Boolit Mold suba's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 44man View Post
    4227's scare me in the .44.
    I tried them at first when I shot IHMSA because everyone was using it. I found it super accurate if shot slow and gun kept cold. Not so when the gun got hot from shooting or the sun. Pressures and velocity would climb fast.
    It was wonderful in the .357 max but never goes in my .44's again.
    296 never changed even when the gun was hot.
    From what I understand 4227 is cold stable, but don't all powders increase pressure when the temp rises. I mean take any gun loaded with safe pressure @60* and shoot it in the desert. Big difference.

    Me ? I don't shoot competition .....well I used to shoot 50BMG and took second place in a national match even though I worked up the load the day before shooting. I like 4227. In fact I love it. They say if your gun won't shoot with 4227 it won't shoot. I can drive nails with my FA 454 with it. No, I don't overheat my barrel, so don't know if the POI changes, but I don't care. What matters is where the first and second shots go. That's all...

  5. #25
    Boolit Buddy Swampman's Avatar
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    Would recutting the forcing cone to 11 degrees clean it up?

  6. #26
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    44man's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by suba View Post
    From what I understand 4227 is cold stable, but don't all powders increase pressure when the temp rises. I mean take any gun loaded with safe pressure @60* and shoot it in the desert. Big difference.

    Me ? I don't shoot competition .....well I used to shoot 50BMG and took second place in a national match even though I worked up the load the day before shooting. I like 4227. In fact I love it. They say if your gun won't shoot with 4227 it won't shoot. I can drive nails with my FA 454 with it. No, I don't overheat my barrel, so don't know if the POI changes, but I don't care. What matters is where the first and second shots go. That's all...
    I think it is caliber specific, works great in some.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check