Ruger Base Pin Spitting

[Sasquatch-1]

This Questioned may have been addressed in the past but I quess I am to lazy to go through the mass of threads on this forum. So, I'll ask my question anew. I have a New Model Blackhawk 357/9mm convertable and a New Model Super Blackhawk. Both have developed a problem with spitting the base pin. I have ordered (I hope) base pins and the redesigned base pin latch from Belt Mountain. Everything I have heard has been good about the locking base pins. Has anyone had any experience with the redesigned base pin latch?

[375RUGER]

I've never had a problem with the pins shooting loose. I use oversize locking base pins on both of my super blackhawks. I don't lock them down though because it causes the cylinder to bind. Maybe if they weren't oversized they might not bind.

[contender1]

I own several Ruger SA's. Only occasionally do I have a base pin in any of mine want to walk out. Usually, it's my fault for not checking to make sure the latch nut assy is properly installed. And yes, I've heard of other folks ahving base pins walking out. Very heavy loads can cause this. However, the Belt Mtn base pins are an excellent accessory.

[mtgrs737]

I switched to a Belt Mtn base pin on my Vaquero because of the way they are made. The original Ruger pin is all the way around lathe cut where the latch contacts it. This makes for a knife edge contact point. The Belt Mtn pin is cut with a mill and this leaves a many times larger contact point with the latch. If you hold both up side by side you will see the difference.

[Sasquatch-1]

Thanks for the responses so far. My 357 convertable is a Bi-Centenniel model I bought used many years ago. the pin has walked on that ever since I bought it. The Super Blackhawk I bought new in 1974 and has just recently started spitting the pin. When I look at the pin on the 44 I can see a little peening in the groove. When I receive the new set I am hoping that the fit between the new pins and the new latch are such that I don't have to worry about the set screw. But it will be there if ever needed in the future. Right now I am firing a fairly hot round through the 44. around 23 grn of 296 with 250 grn semi wad. The convertable I am actually firing 38 loads through it and still having the problem.

[S.R.Custom]

...The Super Blackhawk I bought new in 1974 and has just recently started spitting the pin. When I look at the pin on the 44 I can see a little peening in the groove....

That's the money quote... If you disassemble the latch mechanism, you'll see peening there, too. I've worked on many Ruger single actions afflicted with this ailment, and not one of them was due to "excessive recoil."

What happens is, the groove on the pin or the base pin latch hole (or both) are cut in the wrong location, and the base pin sticks through the breech behind the cylinder into the channel where the transfer bar rides. The hammer falls, hits the transfer bar, and in addition to smacking the firing pin, the transfer bar smacks the base pin.

The fix does not require the purchase of a $40 part. Usually, only a few thousandths of an inch of the pin is protruding from the frame. This can be easily turned off with a lathe without materially affecting the crimp at the end of the base pin. DO NOT, HOWEVER, ALTER THE SPRING LOADED ROD STICKING OUT OF THE BASE PIN.

No lathe? No problem. Disassemble the action, and grind a shallow notch in the face of the transfer bar where it's impacting the base pin. Nothing drastic-- again, just a few thousandths should suffice.

Not comfortable with disassembly? Perhaps, then, the $40 part is your best solution.

[Sasquatch-1]

Got the base pins and latches on the 10th. Now all I have to do is install them.

[Sasquatch-1]

Question for SRCustom...Should I use lock tite on the threads of any screws I remove?

[S.R.Custom]

The Ruger action screws should by Nyloks, that is, the screws should already have nylon patches on the threads which serve as thread lockers. If not, Permatex blue, very sparingly applied, will suffice. And I always use it on the EJR housing screw.

Also, I wait 'til I'm sure the final assembly is correct before I threadlock the screws. Which is to say, I only lightly snug up the screws until I'm done and have test fired. Only then do I remove each of the screws one last time and put on the threadlocker.

[Sasquatch-1]

The only screw that I had to undo other then the base pin latch was the ejector rod housing screw. These were very loose on both guns. I took them to the range yesterday and after firing sixty rounds through the 44 and 100 rds of light 38 rounds through the convertable both of the ejector housing screws were loose again. I guess that I will have to put something on them. On the 44, I think I might have to increase the size of the dimple for the set screw on the base pin.