which bottom pour melting pot is best, and why?

[alamogunr]

When I started casting about 25 yrs ago, I bought the Lee Pro 4-20. Yes, it dripped some but not excessively. About 10(?) yrs ago I found a RCBS Pro Melt 220V unit on sale(clearance?) at Midway. Since I had 220V service in the shop, I jumped on it. I use both but mostly the RCBS.

I agree that the mold guide is not the best(far from it) so I fabricate my own for use with 4 cavity molds. These guides are usually just 2X4's milled to fit the mold in question. The RCBS lends itself to this solution since it is open at the back.

[clum553946]

I am sure the RCBS is a good pot...but, I am also sure, that it is not 6x as good as the LEE.

However, there has to products to support the saying..."A fool and his money are soon parted"...green pot, is one.

Was worth it to me as well. The Lee drips and is much flimsier than the RCBS. To me, the extra price is well worth the cost of potentially not getting seriously burned! At the end of the day, however, it's ultimately your call.

[shoot-n-lead]

Was worth it to me as well. The Lee drips and is much flimsier than the RCBS. To me, the extra price is well worth the cost of potentially not getting seriously burned! At the end of the day, however, it's ultimately your call.

Lee pot is NOWHERE near as top heavy as the RCBS...come on.

It is fine to justify having the green pot, but don't make **** up.

[dragon813gt]

Was worth it to me as well. The Lee drips and is much flimsier than the RCBS. To me, the extra price is well worth the cost of potentially not getting seriously burned! At the end of the day, however, it's ultimately your call.

Where is this potential burn coming from? There is nothing on the Lee pot that screams "dangerous". Mine does not drip unless I put dirty alloy in it. I will not pay up for another brand. The Lee pot is priced where it should be. The others are taking advantage of a niche market. I voted w/ my wallet.

[Dragonheart]

Any dissatisfied RCBS owners? Any at all? This is your chance...

Anyone?

No complaints with the Pro Melt Pot, but the down rod is a problem if you use any of the old H&G molds with the exposed screws on the bottom of the molds. The screws hang on the horizontal rod. I modified mine so I now have a flat stainless guide plate that is adjustable and I also added a wide stainless base plate so I have a place for multiple molds. As far as pots I don't think there is any thing out there that is better.
Attachment 179078Attachment 179079

[DerekP Houston]

No complaints with the Pro Melt Pot, but the down rod is a problem if you use any of the old H&G molds with the exposed screws on the bottom of the molds. The screws hang on the horizontal rod. I modified mine so I now have a flat stainless guide plate that is adjustable and I also added a wide stainless base plate so I have a place for multiple molds. As far as pots I don't think there is any thing out there that is better.
Attachment 179078Attachment 179079

huh, I only have 1 h&g mold but the screws aren't exposed. I just widened the guides and it works awesome. Not sure how I would cast with that pivoting mold guide the lee pot had, it always moved at the worst moment.

No complaints with my promelt here.

[dansedgli]

I bought the Lee 4 20 a few weeks ago. The first 2 melts dripped but it seems to have stopped now. I've done 5 more sessions with no drips.

After the first go i put a pid on it. Works great. The pivoting guide is annoying when it turns but no biggy and easy to fix when I get around to it.

Someone should make an option with a bigger pot that doesn't cost the earth.

[alamogunr]

huh, I only have 1 h&g mold but the screws aren't exposed. I just widened the guides and it works awesome. Not sure how I would cast with that pivoting mold guide the lee pot had, it always moved at the worst moment.

No complaints with my promelt here.

I have a H&G 4 cavity #50 mold with the exposed screws. I made a guide from a short piece of 2X6 with a 1/2" dado down the middle. I secured a piece of phenolic in the dado. The screws straddle the phenolic strip. Whenever I use it I just swing the rod guide out of the way,

[DerekP Houston]

I have a H&G 4 cavity #50 mold with the exposed screws. I made a guide from a short piece of 2X6 with a 1/2" dado down the middle. I secured a piece of phenolic in the dado. The screws straddle the phenolic strip. Whenever I use it I just swing the rod guide out of the way,

kinda ashamed I had to google "dado"...

[dragon813gt]

kinda ashamed I had to google "dado"...

Someone never watched "The New Yankee Workshop"

[Mr Humble]

I have owned a Lyman and own a Lee and RCBS.

The RCBS is a brute, there is no other choice.

[ghh3rd]

My Lee 20lb bottom pour is the best, because it makes really cool drip art.

[dannyd]

I have a RCBS pro melt, Lyman Mag 25, 4 lee 20 lbs, 2 lee 10 lbs and a little Lyman pot may be 10 lbs. I like them all.

[Silverboolit]

I have had a LEE 4-20 for four years and it hasn't had one drip. When I got it new, I removed the valve pin and put some valve grinding paste on it and seated it with a drill, you know, like grinding valves on a Chevy motor. LEE's valve pin is a little light and between the steel pin and the offset weight, there isn't much to hold the pin down. LEE should make a heavier pin and I am sure some of the problems with drip would go away.

[warf73]

Been using the Lee 4-20 for almost 15 years now, it does drip now and then. Nothing like it did before I started fluxing my smelt better, which is key "CLEAN ALLOY".

I really want a larger pot, been eyeing the Magma pots. I really like the idea of the cast master pot but not read much about people using them for hand casting. Would be GREAT to fire up the pot and pour boolits for hour and half and not have to worry about adding alloy.

[ghh3rd]

LEE should make a heavier pin and I am sure some of the problems with drip would go away.

But... the drip is a trademark!

[Dragonheart]

huh, I only have 1 h&g mold but the screws aren't exposed. I just widened the guides and it works awesome. Not sure how I would cast with that pivoting mold guide the lee pot had, it always moved at the worst moment.

No complaints with my promelt here.

The original H&G molds have two big exposed slot head screws on the bottom that secure the handles. I have 4 of the old H&G molds with the exposed screws, but these old molds turn out better bullets than my new molds. I know my H&G #80 7mm mold was made 78 years ago and I have never seen another #80 mold or a cast bullet like it.

I have considered trying to change out the screws, but since I made the plate for the Pro Melt the molds slide easily, so new screws hasn't been a priority. I suspect to do this I would end up having to make the screws and at the present it's not broke, why fix it.

[alamogunr]

The original H&G molds have two big exposed slot head screws on the bottom that secure the handles. I have 4 of the old H&G molds with the exposed screws, but these old molds turn out better bullets than my new molds. I know my H&G #80 7mm mold was made 78 years ago and I have never seen another #80 mold or a cast bullet like it.

I have considered trying to change out the screws, but since I made the plate for the Pro Melt the molds slide easily, so new screws hasn't been a priority. I suspect to do this I would end up having to make the screws and at the present it's not broke, why fix it.

I would agree about the results with an old H&G mold. MY #50 casts the most consistent WC boolit of several. I would like to come up with a guide for the Pro Melt that would better accommodate more of my molds. I just don't like the single rod. The only problem I have with a universal guide that I'm capable of making is that it probably wouldn't be adjustable so I could vary the distance from the spout to the mold. Some of my molds work better if I lower or raise the guide.

[Dragonheart]

JOHN, Take a look at my post #85 the plate will tilt, swivel, move side to side and move up and down. It does not move front to back as it will support everything from a one cavity to a six cavity, but that could be done.

[alamogunr]

OK! I'm convinced. I'll see what I have on hand in the shop. I have aluminum plate but it would probably drag so stainless would definitely be better. I would probably have to have a machinist drill a lengthwise hole in the plate support but everything else I could probably do with my limited tools.

I'm assuming the swivel feature is attained by one screw(flat head) thru the plate into the support. Loosen to adjust, tighten to secure.