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Thread: Tempilstiks

  1. #1
    Boolit Master

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    Tempilstiks

    Can someone give me some info on using one? I purchased a 650 deg. stick from a welder supply today and the sales guy thought it might have been on the shelf too long and not be any good. I tried to mark on a case and it was flaky. Wouldn't mark like a crayon. Thanks, CR

  2. #2
    Boolit Master Russel Nash's Avatar
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    we're trying to anneal brass?

    I think it would probably be better to go with ....I think it is called Tempil Lac. It comes out of a bottle kinda like fingernail polish....the cap contains a little brush. you brush a stripe on, let it dry, then put the heat to it, and when it reaches a particular color it has met the correct temperature.

  3. #3
    Boolit Master KYCaster's Avatar
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    Yeah, what Russell said.

    You use the stick on a hot piece, it will melt immediately if the piece is at or above the stated temp.

    It takes some practice to learn to use them effectively and you'll get the most consistent results by having one for slightly lower temp and another for slightly higher temp. (625, 650, 675)

    They don't go bad sitting on the shelf.

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  4. #4
    Boolit Master
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    What are you trying to do? Try Imperial Case Wax. It is great stuff. I love it for wildcat rounds, and everything else. I hardly ever anneal anymore.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master Daddyfixit's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Circuit Rider View Post
    Can someone give me some info on using one? I purchased a 650 deg. stick from a welder supply today and the sales guy thought it might have been on the shelf too long and not be any good. I tried to mark on a case and it was flaky. Wouldn't mark like a crayon. Thanks, CR
    We used them alot in the marine industry. They don't have a shelf life.
    Two ways to use them. put a mark on your item then alow it to heat up, when it gets to said temp it will melt. The other way is to mark item after it's to temp and if at temp it melts. as said you buy different temp sticks and use them in a "melt or no melt" application.
    Made by TEMPO Products and now out-dated. Worked fairly good to check powerhead temps on an outboard but would be a poor choise alloy casting temps.
    maybe to check mold temp but it leaves behind an ugly mark

  6. #6
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    Tempilsticks and Tempilac are generaly used in handloading for annealing cases to ensure the brass doesn't get over or under heated.

    I use both, the sticks for a quick fix on the case shoulder and yes it does flake a bit and doesn't adhere to the brass all that well but a quick three or four scraps round the shoulder leaves enough to see the change.

    I use the lacquer for more critical work with a couple of 650 lines dowwn the shoulder and some lower temp stuff on the base to ensure I don't anneal the case head.

    I have never heard of the sticks having a shelf life and some of the ones I have have been with me for years and I notice no degradation. The lacquer will harden in the bottles once opened so be sure to buy some thinners along with the lacquer.


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    Smile

    My annealing method for the past twenty or more years is a bit simpler and cheaper.

    I turn off the lights in my shop but leave just enough ambient light to see what I'm doing. Fire up the torch, twirl the brass in my fingers while running the torch flame over the neck, and the moment I see the brass begin to change color, I drop it in the pan of water below.

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  8. #8
    Boolit Master

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    dromia, cured the flaking by wetting the tip of the stick. I was able to mark the neck and down onto the shoulder very well. The mark melted on the neck but not on the shoulder, using 650 degree stick. Had the case in the flame about 3 to 4 seconds on an annealer built similar to JMorris machine. Thank you Gents for all the input. CR

  9. #9
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    Glad its working for you mate.


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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Recluse View Post
    My annealing method for the past twenty or more years is a bit simpler and cheaper.

    I turn off the lights in my shop but leave just enough ambient light to see what I'm doing. Fire up the torch, twirl the brass in my fingers while running the torch flame over the neck, and the moment I see the brass begin to change color, I drop it in the pan of water below.

    I do the same way.

    Tried the tempil stik and Templaq. A hassle. Think I found this technique here or on the LASC website. My annealed Krag and '06 brass has a bluish section and looks like military 5.56x45 and 7.62x51 brass.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check