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Thread: Trimming brass or jackets??

  1. #21
    Boolit Master
    a.squibload's Avatar
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    Jailer, nice jig!
    Looks like the hole depth is critical, for pistol cases (40S&W) I'm thinking
    a long screw through the right end for length adjustment.
    Might need a bracket for it.

    I got a HF chopsaw and a Lyman case trimmer, the Lyman chuck diameter is
    too large, they just don't work together.
    Been using the power adapter for the Lyman with an electric drill,
    it's not bad but your setup is a lot faster.

  2. #22
    Boolit Master
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    Made a jig

    Took a while to find this thread again.
    BT and Jailer, you got me convinced the HF chopsaw was the way to go.
    And I couldn't stand having it sit there unused.
    So I made a crude jig, it's adjustable, and pretty consistent:



    Just hold the case in the corner of the angle iron with my thumb.

    That saw is kinda noisy, wonder if it's worth opening it up to lube it?

  3. #23
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    Looks pretty decent to me. I don't let my HF saw run constantly. I turn it off and on for each cut. Only lube I have ever applied was to the blade to make smoother cuts.

    BT
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  4. #24
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by a.squibload View Post
    Took a while to find this thread again.
    BT and Jailer, you got me convinced the HF chopsaw was the way to go.
    And I couldn't stand having it sit there unused.
    So I made a crude jig, it's adjustable, and pretty consistent:



    Just hold the case in the corner of the angle iron with my thumb.

    That saw is kinda noisy, wonder if it's worth opening it up to lube it?
    Be careful with your digits so close to that blade. If it catches or slips it could create a very bad situation. That's the reason I made my block as big as I did to keep my fingers away from the blade.

  5. #25
    Boolit Master
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    Was thinking about a spring clip or something
    to hold the case. It was a little scary at first!

    Started to whittle the corner of the wood for clearance
    for the blade. Realized the saw will make it's own path.

  6. #26
    Boolit Master Sasquatch-1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BT Sniper View Post
    Looks pretty decent to me. I don't let my HF saw run constantly. I turn it off and on for each cut. Only lube I have ever applied was to the blade to make smoother cuts.

    BT
    Yeah, that's what you think. Take your blade cover off and see how much of your saw you lubed.

    To Squibload

    The only problem I ever had my with little saw was the blade was not tight enough. I put a washer behind it and have not had a problem since.

    I made a jig similar to Jailer's. Mine is very crude since I have limited woodworking equipment. The jig cuts at a very slight angle but it is almost non existent once swaged.

  7. #27
    Boolit Master
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    Me too, just the basics, I'm no artist when it comes to wood!
    Wife bought herself a garage sale router, will learn how to use it
    one of these days...

  8. #28
    Boolit Buddy taminsong's Avatar
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    Now, I wish HF will send their mini chop saw to me!

  9. #29
    Boolit Master Sasquatch-1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by taminsong View Post
    Now, I wish HF will send their mini chop saw to me!
    As I stated in an earlier post. With my saw, when I first got it, every time I tried to cut a shell the blade would stop as soon as it hit the metal. If this happens call HF custormer service and complain. I did and they sent me a new saw. I asked if the wanted the old one back and they said no. I put a washer behind the blade and it has worked fine ever since. Two for the price of one.

  10. #30
    Boolit Buddy

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sasquatch-1 View Post
    As I stated in an earlier post. With my saw, when I first got it, every time I tried to cut a shell the blade would stop as soon as it hit the metal. If this happens call HF custormer service and complain. I did and they sent me a new saw. I asked if the wanted the old one back and they said no. I put a washer behind the blade and it has worked fine ever since. Two for the price of one.
    The same exact thing just happened to me and they want me to send it back to them then they will replace it for a 3 week turn around time not so good service for me, If I can just put washer in it to fix it I just might do that. Any particular's on the washer size?

  11. #31
    Boolit Master Sasquatch-1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by newcastter View Post
    The same exact thing just happened to me and they want me to send it back to them then they will replace it for a 3 week turn around time not so good service for me, If I can just put washer in it to fix it I just might do that. Any particular's on the washer size?
    They sent me a new one. I asked about returning the old one and they said keep it. Wait a couple days and call back. Maybe if you get a different person you will get a different result.

    Just find a washer that will fit around the mandril to snug the blade up. I believe I put mine on the motor side of the blade. I did this and it works fine now. Just be aware that the little motor in there is not very strong and you have to kind of work it through the case. Also someone suggested lubing the blade every so often and it work great.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check