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Thread: Cleaning lead from bores.

  1. #1
    Boolit Master
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    Cleaning lead from bores.

    Bore leading can be a pesty problem at times and thought it would be nice to have a sticky at the top for reference.


    I like many, use the pure copper Chore Boy scrub pads. I cut a section and wrap about an old brass brush and push/pull in a dry bore. Qucikly removes lead as effectively as a Lewis Lead Remover and a lot cheaper than initial cost and the buying of additional brass screens.

    I am sure others use just as effective other methods and would be interesting for their input.

  2. #2
    Boolit Master

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    On the front cylinders of my revolvers, stainless only, I used a lead cloth. If you use this on blued finishes it can remove the finish. Takes a little elbow grease but it looks good as new. Also works on a patch down the bore with minor leading.
    "The right of the people to keep and bear...arms shall not be infringed. A well regulated militia, composed of the body of the people, trained to arms, is the best and most natural defense of a free country..." (James Madison, I Annals of Congress 434 [June 8, 1789])


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  3. #3
    Boolit Master
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    I used to scrub and scrub. I used chore boys, Lewis, heat and comet cleanser. Hell, I tried everything and then I bought a Foul-out II, and life got easier. I cleaned my 686 to a mirror shine and the patches came out clean by hand. Then I used the Foul-out and got even more out. Just my .02. Rod

  4. #4
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    Depending on alloy, my FO-III often won't touch "lead" fouling. I have a theory that antimony and/or tin content may not transfer through the solution used for lead, and inhibits the removal. The FO works like a champ on copper fouling if you stop and clean frequently to remove uncovered powder fouling that slows down the process and dirties the solution. I always use the FO to decopper any gun I aquire before shooting cast boolits.

    For lead, I use several things. Copper O-cedar scrub pad strips about an inch wide wrapped around worn-out bronze brushes works pretty well, and I also use bronze wool in the same manner to finish off and get to the corners of the grooves. Aluminum screen wire on a jag works, as do patches cut from the fine screen mesh salvaged from old Toyota Aisin transmission filters, kind of a "poor man's Lewis Lead Remover".

    Another thing that works on lead is steel wool wrapped around a brush. Six-ought works for light lead fouling and antimony wash on rifles, and four-ought for the heavy fouling if you "oops" during load development. I take care not to exit the muzzle with the steel wool as to avoid possible crown damage. I'm sure many people will pile on and flame me for mentioning that one, but been doing it for a while after reading about it here, and it doesn't hurt anything that I can tell. Your milage may vary, as the saying goes.

    Gear
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  5. #5
    Boolit Master mroliver77's Avatar
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    The Chore Boy has always worked for me! A few swipes is all I have ever needed. I am amazed when I read of folks not satisfied with the results. Maybe they don't use enough? I use enough that brush is tight in the barrel.

    Like gear says these days it is only for "oops" situations.
    J
    "The .30-06 is never a mistake." Townsend Whelen

    "THESE are the times that try men's souls. The summer soldier and the sunshine patriot will, in this crisis, shrink from the service of their country; but he that stands by it now, deserves the love and thanks of man and woman. Tyranny, like hell, is not easily conquered; yet we have this consolation with us, that the harder the conflict, the more glorious the triumph."
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  6. #6
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    BulletFactory's Avatar
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    It would be a good sticky.

    I use Barnes CR-10. Take a bore brush, and wrap it in pure copper chore boy. Enough where it makes a snug fit in the bore. Run this through the bore for a couple minutes dry. Do not use the solvent.

    Now, take a lightly oiled cloth through the bore once, then a dry patch.

    Then, take a different bore brush, and wrap it in 000 steel wool. Get it soaked with the CR-10. Run it back and forth through the bore for a minute or two.

    Let it set for a couple minutes, then repeat the above step.

    Run the brush under warm water. Rinse the barrel in warm running water.

    Put dishsoap on the 000 brush, and run that through the bore several times.

    Rinse.

    Run a couple dry patches through the barrel. Then lightly oil a patch and run that through. If it comes out white, you're done. If it comes out green, black, or blue, repeat the steps.
    Last edited by BulletFactory; 03-19-2012 at 01:49 PM.
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  7. #7
    Boolit Master
    Mal Paso's Avatar
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    I like Brownelle's Double Tuff Bronze Brushes. A couple passes after 2-300 rounds is all I need now. $1.60 ea. in the 3 pack.
    Mal

    Mal Paso means Bad Pass, just so you know.

  8. #8
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    Another thing that works on lead is steel wool wrapped around a brush. Six-ought works for light lead fouling and antimony wash on rifles, and four-ought for the heavy fouling if you "oops" during load development.
    Four ought is tough enough to find around here, where in the worlrd do you find six ought steel wool?

    Robert

  9. #9
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    Choir boy works well for me on the big stuff. The small stuff that stays in the groove I used to scrub like crazy and even did the 50/50 hydrogen perixide/viniger mix. BUT, I read here recently and now I do not worry about the small lead that stays in the grooves. Just 5 runs with the brush and choir boy after an outing. I also find with a good boolit lube and a proper bullet not much leading anyway.

  10. #10
    Boolit Master
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    I like chore boy/girl on an old brush.

    An easier, but more expensive, method in my 44s is to shoot several RANCH DOG TLC 432 265 gas check boolits sized to .432 and lubed with LLA/JPW/CARNUBA RED mix. It's about the only time I use gas check boolits in a pistol...those little guys are getting expensive!


  11. #11
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    Haven't gotten any in more than a decade the took more than a few passes with a brass
    brush. Years ago a Lewis Lead remover was useful when I was learning. Once used the
    Foul Out and it worked really well, but haven't needed anything in so long that I am probably
    not up on what is best.

    Bill
    If it was easy, anybody could do it.

  12. #12
    Boolit Master Cadillo's Avatar
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    Some good advice above. My last resort is always a soak with turpentine followed by a good going over with O'Cedar on a brush and followed up with an oily patch trailed by a dry one.
    There is some ammo and more ammo. There is never enough ammo!

  13. #13
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    Brass Jag with a cotton patch soaked on Ed's Red...with a thin layer of 0000 steel wool.
    (when I say thin layer, I'm talkin' 20 or so strands)
    one or two strokes...it should be full of lead alloy splinters.
    check bore for leading.
    Repeat with a new patch/Ed's Red/0000, if necessary.


    Also, Sometimes if you are lucky, and there isn't so much lead that there
    would be serious pressure increases or worst a bore obstruction,
    You can shoot out the Lead fouling using a properly sized Gas checked Boolit...YMMV
    Jon
    Last edited by JonB_in_Glencoe; 12-27-2011 at 07:42 PM. Reason: added shooting GC boolit

  14. #14
    Boolit Master tuckerdog's Avatar
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    I have been using shooters choice lead remover and heavy cotton tablecloth material with brass jag and after a few passes with bronze brush an cloth with jag bbl looks like new. If anyone knows anything negative about this product please let me know, I've been using it for awhile now with no problems but u never know
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  15. #15
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    I use kroil and a tight patch for most of my lead removal--(I seldom have much). I run a loose soggy patch down the bore, let The kroil soak for 10-15 minutes, then run a tight, damp patch down the bore and look at the lead slivers in wonder. I then use good old Hoppes #9 to cover the smell of the Kroil.
    I can't speak for everyone, but for me, Hoppe's smells like wonderful yesterdays, when my Dad and his brother would let my cousin and I "clean" their guns under their watchful eyes after a week end of hunting. It calls to mind my first "real" gun, and the joy of holding it and contemplating that big buck that was sure to step out in sight come deer season. I think kindly of my .357 Colt Python riding in my duty holster, serenely (if perhaps mistakenly)confident in my ability to take care of myself, come what may, with the pride of ownership that a really good gun can give. Hoppe's makes me recall a lot of good times spent with good friends, steel as well as flesh.
    Kroil stinks, but works.

  16. #16
    Boolit Master
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    I'll just repeat my standard "Chore Boy" caution. Be absolutely certain they are solid copper. There are many bargain brands that are merely copper plated steel. Needless to say, you DON'T want those. I use a Lewis and occasionally a foulout. The foul out works well but I find the screwing around with liquids and the general hassle not to usually be worth it.
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  17. #17
    Boolit Master
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    to be honest, LISTEN TO WHAT I SAY !!! easiest method of all. take your barrel and wipe out the carbon, did the whole barrel into your container of kroil then let it set for 5 days in a zip lock bag or something then use a lewis lead remover until you don't see anything itshould come out in strips/streaks/ shake the lewis or brush it clean because buddy its going to all come out fast and the lewis will get loaded!!!

  18. #18
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    The trick is to not leave lead in the bore.

    Clean the copper out good the first time, use a good lube. Dont clean too often.

    If your getting gobs of lead, its time to go back to the laboratory.

    I only clean in the direction of bullet travel. I never pull a patch or brush back through the barrel.
    I shoot plain base boolits up to 2000 fps without leading.

  19. #19
    Boolit Master
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    lead removal with copper "Chore Girl"

    Quote Originally Posted by mroliver77 View Post
    The Chore Boy has always worked for me! A few swipes is all I have ever needed. I am amazed when I read of folks not satisfied with the results. Maybe they don't use enough? I use enough that brush is tight in the barrel.

    Like gear says these days it is only for "oops" situations.
    J
    Happy with speed and results. Only thing I do differently is use a brass Midway Jag, a thin patch soaked in whatever solvent I'm trying to use up (if the solvent is not going to harm the bore by leaving it in there over nite, I leave the bore wet). The wet patch on the jag is then covered with a small piece of Chore Girl and pushed thru the barrel several times, adjusting the size of the Chore Girl as required. The next day I finish the cleaning with a tight patch or do all over again....Takes longer to write and explain that to actually do the once p....in the a....job. afish4570

  20. #20
    Boolit Buddy
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    I run a patch soaked in Hoppes #9 let sit for a few, scrub with a bronze brush quickly then run a couple patches until its clean. Never had a problem with removing any amount this way

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check