Obviously, the title has nothing to do with the cost of factory ammo!
Local dealer had this on the shelf for 75.00. Couldn't pass it up. Especially since my dad bought one some time ago and I kinda felt left out. Finally got the dies, and a mold, and decided to try and use 32-20 brass for the project. With the signifigant lack of load data for this cartrige, I erred on the side of caution and chose to use 32 S&W Long data as a starting point. Fired up Mr. Drippy and ran out about 50 boolits through my NEI mold, then lubed em with alox. These boolits cast perfectly at .316.
So, I loaded these little 96 grainers over 3 grains of red dot with the shoulder of the swc fully inside the case. Length was good, but the rims are just a little too thick.
I wasn't really wanting to shave the rims on my brass, although that would probably be the best thing to do, but I was wondering..... How do you remove the internals so I can shave a couple thousandths off the anvil that moves forward when you cock the pistol? Anyone know of an easier fix? I was able to find some of my brass that would allow the weapon to function and fired some of the 3 grain red dot loads. At ten yards, the groups were "good nuff fer gubment work". About 1 inch for 7 rounds and exactly at the top of the front site. Perfect for shooting skunks and dillos. The rounds did have a crack to em, so I am guessing they are just over a thousand feet per second. No recoil what so ever. I pitty the person sent into violent teritorry with that anemic round.
Now back to the economics part of the discussion. Pistol, 75.00. Dies 35.00, Mold 50.00, Brass (nearly the most expensive part of this thing) was something like 50.00 a hundred. 7000 grains in a pound means I get 2333 of these little monster stoppers for around 20 bucks of powder plus 20.00 for a thousand primers. I cant find anything other than 22 long rifle that I can make 2 thousand rounds for around 60.00. Sounds good to me!