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Thread: patch templates and instructions

  1. #41
    Paperpatch Master on Heavenís Range


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    After college was done for me I like every other attendee had lots of stuff left from required classes for your major. I had quite a pile of drafting equipment that was relegated to a shelf in a closet to never see use again. When I started paper patching I thought about the drafting tools and my well used draft board. I will lay out on a sheet of copier paper that I use for jackets a number of patches for a particular caliber bullet. I will then run off copies of the inital page I drew up. If I am happy with the copy I will make a run of 20 or usually more sheets. Now I proceed to use my paper shear to cut the copies into long rows then into individual patches that I will use scissors to cut the end angles as they are already marked for this chore.Robert

  2. #42
    Boolit Master
    barrabruce's Avatar
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    Hmmmm I made a template out of a tin lid.
    I fold my paper in halves then halves...... up then mark out with the template and cut them out 6-8 at a time with scissors.
    I leave the major folded side to last and nip the tip off the base end so I know which end is the nose or base.
    My angles aint perfect and I like to taper my orgave section of the patch a pencil line thickness smaller to compensate for the diminished taper.
    Once I know which way to cut the paper I mark it on the front of the pad so I remember.
    The nose of the patch should shrink tight on the bullet and not want to stay loose.

    I usually only do 20 or so at a time or maybe 50.or 5 or ten if I'm playing with things.

    But with my paper I can get only 18 or 24 or 28 or 48 patches per sheet so I have folded strips left over and bits and pieces and a few cores lying around when I run out of paper or had enough for one session.
    Sometimes wrapping 10 is a struggle and others times I'll do a bunch.
    Seems they don't have to be wrapped the same day to shoot good just wrapped good

    Hope it helps
    Last edited by barrabruce; 02-27-2014 at 08:23 AM.

  3. #43
    Boolit Buddy Saltner's Avatar
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    I have done this grid to cut the patches, simply enlarge / shrink or raise them / lower middle box to adapt the patch to your bullet. I hope I was helpful.

    https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BzY...it?usp=sharing
    Last edited by Saltner; 09-13-2014 at 05:15 AM.
    Weapons are as the money ... no one has ever enough

  4. #44
    Boolit Mold Buffalo Arms Co's Avatar
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    We now have Rooster labs bullet film lube in stock, give us a call at 208 263-6953 or www.buffaloarms.com for yours!!!

  5. #45
    Boolit Bub
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    Quote Originally Posted by Goatwhiskers View Post
    OK, my question for the day is why sometimes wrap dry or sometimes wet? I've started out wrapping wet and wet paper definitely has its own problems. Haven't tried dry yet but can't quite grasp what keeps the patch from loosening. After you wrap dry can you still run them thru a sizer? Goat
    Hi All,
    Although a bit late, if the patch gets lose after drying, try adding some corn syrup to the water or someone also suggested using something like sprite (the fizzy, bubbling beverage), the soda must be of the clear type, no coke or diet cr@p!
    cheers!!

  6. #46
    Boolit Master nanuk's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bosco555 View Post
    Hi All,
    Although a bit late, if the patch gets lose after drying, try adding some corn syrup to the water or someone also suggested using something like sprite (the fizzy, bubbling beverage), the soda must be of the clear type, no coke or diet cr@p!
    cheers!!
    yup... you need to keep your boolits FAT on the high calorie HFCS

    cuz everone knows skinny boolits lead yer barrel
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  7. #47
    Boolit Mold
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    Saltner, ref your grid pattern location. When I tried Google said it wasn't there. Would sure appreciate an update so I could take a look/get a copy. John

  8. #48
    Boolit Buddy Saltner's Avatar
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    Sorry, i edited the file, and i had not shared.
    Now it is available to everyone.
    Weapons are as the money ... no one has ever enough

  9. #49
    In Remembrance
    montana_charlie's Avatar
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    If you have a metal template for your patch, plus a straight edge and razor knife, this video shows an efficient way to cut a bunch.
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bM23a_tbE-M

    CM
    Retired...TWICE. Now just raisin' cows and livin' on borrowed time.

  10. #50
    Boolit Grand Master

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    I bolted a piece of heavy sheet metal to my paper cutters out side edge then made a rail/stop to bolt on it. This allows me to cut strips to the same width with no lay out or measuring. A plastic triangle taped down on 2 sides guides the angle and the same stop sets the length After a little playing you find the length you need to set the rail to for each dimension and caliber write it down and you can cut alot of patches very qyuckly. I glue the edges together on 5-10 sheets and cut them together. A big pluss to this is unlike a template small adjustments for bullet dia paper thickness or stretch are easily made.

  11. #51
    Boolit Master
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    Have goodsteel's pic's been removed or is it just my computer?

    Thanks Aaron

  12. #52
    Boolit Master powderburnerr's Avatar
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    the masking tape is what I use as well but I put 6-7 layers on the board that way you can cut a stack and they stay organized.
    lover of 74 sharps
    MYWEIGH scale merchant
    " i'll tell the story 10 different ways before I'll lie to you."

  13. #53
    Boolit Buddy SgtDog0311's Avatar
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    joatmon, if they have not been removed then my computer has the same problem yours does.
    Best Regards,
    John

  14. #54
    To anyone who can answer with a good explanation: Why is it important to have a 30 deg. or 60 deg. angle on the ends of the paper patch? Why can't it be cut at 90 deg. and wrapped in a similar manner?

  15. #55
    Boolit Master Nobade's Avatar
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    Because it's really hard to get the patch to stay on. Chase patches are cut at 90 deg. but they're applied just as they are loaded (in muzzle loaders or breech seated). You'd have a hard time getting one in a cartridge case and into the rifle's throat without it coming apart.

    -Nobade

  16. #56
    Boolit Master

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    I have not found the need to match the ends exactly. I wrap soaking wet, and that compresses the paper tight. When it dries, it shrinks. I then run it thru my push thru sizer and that smooths out the edge.
    I do not think I ever matched my ends. I came close and that was good enough.
    I use a piece of vinyl curtain that I got from my cats breaking the ends off. I cut my patches to 1" and use the length of curtain as a template.
    Hey, works for me.

  17. #57
    Quote Originally Posted by Nobade View Post
    Because it's really hard to get the patch to stay on. Chase patches are cut at 90 deg. but they're applied just as they are loaded (in muzzle loaders or breech seated). You'd have a hard time getting one in a cartridge case and into the rifle's throat without it coming apart.

    -Nobade
    I cut my paper patch strips at 90 deg., and they stay on just fine. I have to leave a bit of the patch twisted over the end of the bullet so that it stays on when pushing through the lubrasizer, but otherwise it works fine. Leaving the little bit of twisted material hanging over the end of the bullet gives it something to "grab" onto when being fed into the lubrisizer.

    On a different note, has anybody else had a "shinier" barrel after firing paper patched cast bullets? I distinctly recall that my 91/30 Mosin-Nagant had a not-shiny bore prior to firing paper patched cast bullets, and now it's distinctly shiny. Is this just the old crud getting shot out?

  18. #58
    Boolit Grand Master

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    The theroy is hat the joint dosnt sit in a groove or land completly when cut at an angle like it could cut straight. I cut my patches at 45* ( should be 180* on joint that way). WHile the patch meeting perfectly is a big issue as long as its close, a big gap or even worse a slight overlapp is an issue. A big gap allows bullet to become uneven when it expands into the open spot in the patch. I stopped wrapping with a tail as it seems to form and shoot better for me with out. I set my patch board so the patchs endjust meets or a small bare area of lead shows. The paper has a fine abrasive quality to it naturally. On an slightly over sized bore or soft bullet that obtrates to seal bore there is alot of pressure between patch and barrel. Some papers being used are more abrasive than others also.

  19. #59
    Quote Originally Posted by country gent View Post
    Some papers being used are more abrasive than others also.
    Maybe I just don't understand everything that's at work here, but does it really matter what kind of paper I use so long as I'm getting the kind of accuracy that I'm expecting?

  20. #60
    Boolit Master

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    I don't think so, but I wrap for smokeless loads. I have found my loads are better than factory so far, in all cases. I have used computer printer paper, notebook paper, legal pad paper. I have not found a difference once I found the final diameter.
    Nice shiney bores though.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check