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Thread: Practical Dope on the 7.62X39

  1. #81
    Boolit Man
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    Hey guys, cross posting a bit here, it looks like JR has a great load up for the 180 gr bullets @ 1700 fps, anyone have ideas on how to push a 200 gr bullet supersonic/subsonic? Will the subsonic be able to cycle the bolt? I plan on making a video about it and crediting all you guys who have been working on these loads.

  2. #82
    Boolit Master



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    I just used Junior's load, but in my case it's a 170grn. spitzer over 22.5grns. of 4895. The rifle cycles beautifully. If I have any qualms at all, it's that the base/gas check is down even with the case shoulder in order to reduce the OAL so that it fits in the magazine...thus it's hanging in "free space". I'm using Hornady crimp on gas checks, but took a further precaution of placing a tiny drop of super glue on each check.

    So far, no problems but I'm not sure how well a 200grn. boolit would work. Most SKS rifles have a long throat and that's fine, but if you want it to feed semi-auto you have to keep the OAL below 2.20 inches. A 200grn. boolit is going to be pretty long and you might be restricted to single shots by having to seat it out farther.

  3. #83
    Boolit Man
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    I was thinking for the 200gr bullets I could switch up to pistol powder so the powder would take up less case volume. That way, seating the bullet to 2.20 wouldn't be a problem.

  4. #84
    Boolit Master badbob454's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by savage1r View Post
    I was thinking for the 200gr bullets I could switch up to pistol powder so the powder would take up less case volume. That way, seating the bullet to 2.20 wouldn't be a problem.
    with that heavy a bullet , perhaps a fast pistol powder would reach max pressure too fast? just thinking a medium speed powder would be better like a magnum handgun powder say 2400 alliant ?or 4227 imr would be a nice slow pistol powder to try
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  5. #85
    Boolit Buddy machinisttx's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by curiousquestion View Post
    (ignore diatribe and read the bottom sentence for the actual question to skip the background)
    I hate to resurrect an old thread on a board that I'm not a member of for a first post. But this seems like the only thread or forum after searching that knows what they are talking about for reloading 7.62x39.
    I've been reloading many different calibers for a long while, and I love shooting this round.
    I'm tired of the extra-lengthy cleaning process I go through to clean my weapons above and beyond after firing corrosive military surplus ammunition (specifically Yugo 7.62x39 Corrosive M67), and wanting to tailor the loads so they operate the firearm a little better as well, to say nothing of better accuracy.

    So, because budget is always my most important reason to reload (so the wife doesn't yell at me for spending too much), I have been wanting to reload the nice brass cases spent from military surplus, trouble for most people is, its berdan primed.
    I have been obtaining perfect results by taking a spent round, a drill bit one size larger than my reloading die's primer extractor pin and a drill-press and punching out the base of the brass along with the old primer, tumbling and polishing, seating a boxer primer and going from there using some of these load tables:
    http://www.gunsandammomag.com/cs/Sat...gs=pagenum%3D2

    My problem is, this process is painfully slow, and I'm trying various methods for gripping the base of the case without destroying it. Is there a method for doing this that one of you might be aware of?
    Every so often, berdan primers are available from a couple of places on the web. The process of decapping them is pretty slow if you use the RCBS tool and somewhat messy if you use the hydraulic method. IMO, unless it's a cartridge that has little to no availability of boxer primed brass, it's not worth the time to mess with the berdan stuff, especially corrosive primed brass.
    Machinists do it with precision.

  6. #86
    Boolit Master
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    what about h110 powder with the 155 lee gas check bullet ??
    any load info ?? for the sks

  7. #87
    Boolit Master
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    Has anyone tried A filler in 7.62x39 cast in SKS?

  8. #88
    Boolit Master
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    A light load for 7.62x39 Is 160gr. (no g/c) with 4 to 7.5 grs. of Bullseye with 4.5grs. being the most accurate in my SKS --- an old one with A 316 bore --- for sizing I use A .314 opened up to ..3155 and beagle my mold to get fatter boolit. --- Mag.

  9. #89
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    Anyone have a Red Dot load for the SKS (Yugo)?
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  10. #90
    Boolit Buddy Danderdude's Avatar
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    Just ordered a Saiga 7.62x39 with 20" barrel today, and I swear an oath upon my honor and dignity as a caster that this new firearm will never know the sting of a copper or steel jacket until it leaves my hands.

    That said, the current working plan is to load up Lee 155gr spitzers, gas checked and lubed with BAC, in Prvi brass. There are a lot of good-looking reduced power loads listed, but what about full-power? And I mean a case full of powder, fast enough to get a good burn but just slow enough to not kaboom. If nothing else, I'd really appreciate being able to take a glimpse at the Lyman 4th handbook page on this round.

  11. #91
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    Quote Originally Posted by Danderdude View Post
    Just ordered a Saiga 7.62x39 with 20" barrel today, and I swear an oath upon my honor and dignity as a caster that this new firearm will never know the sting of a copper or steel jacket until it leaves my hands.

    That said, the current working plan is to load up Lee 155gr spitzers, gas checked and lubed with BAC, in Prvi brass. There are a lot of good-looking reduced power loads listed, but what about full-power? And I mean a case full of powder, fast enough to get a good burn but just slow enough to not kaboom. If nothing else, I'd really appreciate being able to take a glimpse at the Lyman 4th handbook page on this round.
    I'm not shooting a semi, but a CZ 527 bolt action. With the Lee C-309-150-F I'm using 24gr of H322 over WLR primers. The boolit with GC and lube weighs 160gr, and is seated with the GC at the base of the neck. I've shot as much as 27gr which requires tapping the case to settle the powder prior to seating the boolit. 23-25gr was a sweet spot accuracy wise, and 24gr worked in hot and colder weather.

  12. #92
    Boolit Buddy Danderdude's Avatar
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    Thank you for the reply, excess650. Unfortunately I don't have any powder on hand between H110 and H4895, so I guess I'll start with the 4895 until I can get a deal on a keg of 322, 335, 10x or an equivalent.

  13. #93
    Boolit Buddy Danderdude's Avatar
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    Saiga Update:

    I tried 15gr and 16gr 2400 over the Lee 155, but neither cycled the action reliably. The bolt would just barely clear the magazine and strip a round, but wouldn't have the inertia to slam it home.

    17gr 2400 cycled the action well and dumped the cases about 6 feet in front of me within two feet of each other, but burned extremely dirty. I'm thinking about investing in a keg of Ramshot TAC for full-power cast loads.

  14. #94
    Boolit Master

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    I could be wrong, but as far as I know, with ANY semi-auto the ability of the action to CLOSE has nothing to do with the powder charge, either 15 or 16gr of 2400 should be enough to cycle the action. I have a Mini-30, and have loaded some rounds with 16gr of 2400, although I've yet to shoot them. If the bolt goes back far enough to eject the round in the chamber, and pickup another round, from there it's up to the recoil spring to bring the bolt back into battery.

    As a test, with a round in the magazine, if you manually pull back the bolt just until it's clear of the magazine (so it picks up a round), then you release the bolt, what happens? does the action close on it's own, or do you have to help it close? As your gun is new, it might just need some breaking in.
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  15. #95
    Boolit Buddy Danderdude's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MikeS View Post
    As a test, with a round in the magazine, if you manually pull back the bolt just until it's clear of the magazine (so it picks up a round), then you release the bolt, what happens?
    That's exactly how I diagnosed the problem. The bolt and carrier don't have enough inertia to fully strip a round from the mag when the bolt doesn't quite go all the way back. 16gr 2400 under the Lee 155 gave me two failures to feed and one stovepipe in 10 rounds. 17gr functioned flawlessly, but I don't like having so narrow of a functionality window.
    Last edited by Danderdude; 05-24-2012 at 09:28 PM.

  16. #96
    Boolit Master

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    Well, as I said before, if the gun is brand new it needs to be broken in. I would say to shoot maybe a couple hundred rounds thru it so that everything can work themselves in before you settle on a load. If the 17gr load works the action, then I would use that to shoot the break-in, and after that go back and try the 15gr and/or 16gr loads.
    Last edited by MikeS; 05-22-2012 at 06:19 AM.
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  17. #97
    Boolit Buddy Danderdude's Avatar
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    Made up a few test loads for the Saiga today.

    On the left are Lee 155gr .312's that I blunted with a grinder to approximate the FN on http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=130593
    That groupbuy is coming in a few months. I wanted to test feeding and functionality.

    On the right are Lee 311-93-1R's that I'm making for a neighbor's .32 S&W Long, crimped into the front lube groove to increase chamber pressures and promote cleaner burning.


    The last time I tried the 93's, I tried crimping on the nose, tried on the middle driving band between the grooves and all over the place. This time all were crimped into the front lube groove. Lube is BAC, sized to .311. Load is 17gr 2400 with CCI LRM primer. Function was flawless. Brass ejected roughly 10ft away. Brass barely kissed the dust cover when ejecting - no deep dents like full power loads.

    The blunted 155's are not gas-checked. Lubed with Larsen's BAC, sized to .311. CCI LRM primer. 25gr H4895. Each of 10 rounds were blunted to wider and wider flat noses, from .11 up to .24, to test feeding of FN bullets. All performed without issues. In the future I will grind down other designs to see just how blunt and short a bullet can be and still feed, but only after I install a bullet guide and switch to conventional AK mags.

    What I didn't like was when I stripped it down to inspect the barrel and gas tube. A few dozen pellets of unburned H4895 were laying on the trunnion and turned yellow after soaking up some Ed's Red cleaner. There were no signs of firing out of battery. The picture may look like brass shavings, but it is all unburned powder.



    Unburned powder was conspicuously absent from the gas piston, tube, port and block. Bore was darkened, but cleaned with 2 passes of a bore snake + Ed's Red. The 155's shot minute of barn thanks to my uneven blunting, but the 93's all hit center-high at 150 yards. I adjusted my POA after the first two and the rest hit a 16" dia. steel plate. This was good enough for me since all I cared about was a function check.

  18. #98
    Boolit Master armoredman's Avatar
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    I got back into casting for 7.62x39mm yesterday, was gifted some nice Linotype and SeaFab #2 Alloy, so I decided to brew up a few od 1/2 mix, hard lubed with an alox/beeswax home mix a friend made for me. The bullet is the NOE 129 grain .314, sized to .311 and at a COAL of 2.165 over 20.0 grains of Accurate Arms #1680, gave me a few nice groups while beginning testing at 50 yards, representative group below. Rifle used is the CZ 527M bolt action Mini Mauser.



    Bore cleaned with boresnake, absolutely no leading. Another set will be loaded and tried with the SA vz-58 in the future. This was my first loading using something other than run of the mill wheelweight lead.

  19. #99
    Boolit Buddy Danderdude's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by excess650 View Post
    Danderdude,
    I expected that 4895 was going to be too slow burning to be ideal in your semi. If you were in driving distance I'd make you a sweet deal on some AA2200 which is a bit slower than 1680, but not nearly as slow as 4895. H322 might be in the ballpark for as slow as you'll want to go with 155s in that semi.
    I'm leaning toward getting a keg or two of pulldown WC 844 (H335 equiv.) for this round now.

    I did some test firing this morning with Lee 155's sized to .311 and a full case of H4895, which comes out to 28.5gr compressed over a CCI LRM primer. This extra chamber pressure completely solved my powder burning issues, but accuracy fell WAY off, as was kind of expected.

  20. #100
    Boolit Master Rangefinder's Avatar
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    Actually, 16gr. of real H335 is what I run on with Lee 312-160-2R finishing at 173gr lubed and ready to load. It cycles wonderfully, doesn't launch brass into the next county, and gives very good accuracy through my AK.
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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check